76hatch

A have my friends 2001 civic lx auto. He brought me the car. Said he started it Friday morning. Before he could even get out ( a couple seconds ) the car shut off. Know the car cranks starts for 2 seconds then shuts off. It starts just fine. Every time then shuts off. I checked the normal. Good fuel psr, good spark, comp good also. Found after market alarm. He does not have the remote. Didn't get one when he bought it. So I removed the alarm. Still the same. Then I remember the chip in the key. He has two keys. One oem one after market. But the after market key, he had chipped after he bought the car. To have a spare. Car ran fine with both keys. Till Friday morning. Asked if he disconnected the batt, at all. He said no. When I cycle the key, the e mobilizer light on the dash is off. When I turn the car on it doesn't turn on. But when I take the key out, it blink's. The same with both keys. Both keys turn it on, but then shuts off after 2 seconds. Have any advice. I think the keys need to be re learned. But if nothing was disconnected, I e. The batt. Why would this happen. Either he disconnected something, and lied to me. Or maybe the e mobilizer unit when out. He bought the car the day after Christmas. Ran fine till Friday. He didn't get remotes for the aftermaket or stock alarm / key less entry. Sorry about the story, just wanted to be thorough. Any advise would help. Thnx

76hatch

Also if it does need re learning of the keys, does it have to go to Honda for this. Can I relearn the keys my self. Or how can I test to see if it is the keys, or the e mobilizer unit.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

If it truly is the immobilizer ring/key combination needing to be reset, it would need to be taken to a certified Honda service technician.

The way you describe things makes me think that there may be more to the car's problems. Is the Check Engine Light lit up?

76hatch

No check engine light at all. My friend said it has not come on. I scanned it. Only had a stored air temp sensor voltage to high. No current codes.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

Then I would say there could be something wrong within the ECU itself (especially since you said you checked for basic fuel/spark).

lazlong

Check or replace fuses #4 and #9 in the under-dash fuse/relay box.

According to what your telling us this is the next step:
1. Turn ign off
2. Disconnect the immobilizer connector(7P)
3. Check for continuity (Ohms) between the BRN/YLW and body ground

Is there continuity?

YES- Substitute a known-good immobilizer and/or ECM/PCM (This means the immobilizer and/or the ECM/PCM is bad)

NO- Repair open in the wire. If wire is ok, repair G101 (G101 is the ground via the harness bolted to the engine block right around the EGR valve and VTEC solenoid)

76hatch

Well I talked to a buddy from Honda. Said the ignition sw. Electric portion of ighthion cylinder. Is faulty. They go bad. But he also told me, that by holding the key. In the on position, the car should stay on. If it does stay on. The sw is bad. But no, the car turns on, turns off, turns on, then back off.Over and over again. But he told me he is 70% sure, or so. That its still the ignition sw. Have a sw coming tomorrow. Had to special order. Even from Honda. Kinda wired if its a recurring problem. I think so any ways. But ill find out tomorrow. But has nothing to do with the emobalizer unit or pcm. The car would not start at all if it was. That's what I figured. But my first time working on this ignition set up.

76hatch

Should I have posted in the technical section. Seems like I would have more responses. Or this is not as comen a problem. As I'm told.

sncobra331

Honda would have to program the key...

If the car turns on, it's not the immobilizer... ignition switch can be bad to the point where even holding it in the "on" position will not keep it running...

89Turbo_Angel

Was the problem ever fixed? I have an 02 Civic with the exact same problem. It turns on for a second and turns right off. Fuel, Spark, and air are all good.

benchwarmer

Possibly 2 fuel pump relays ? ? One for prime one for running ? ? I guess a real time fuel pressure gauge would be needed to see if that was the problem . A bunch of slack in the timing belt ? ?