sho_shane

I know this has been hit over and over again. So im really just trying to vent and if you want to post up your thoughts then please do...

I have a 1995 HB that im really wanting to build up over time. As it sits now I drop 1qt of oil a week. There is no smoke, small leaks but not enough to do that, and no smell. It simply goes away...

It also kinda sounds like a subi and last time I have a Honda do that I pulled the head off and found a hole in a valve and I had to do a head swap. With that in mind im guess im having the same prob now so im thinking of doing a Z6 head swap for a mini me that will put my motor back in good shape...

With all that in mind I want to do somthing soon for more power. I have always wanted a turbo D civic and like the D for the underdog status. At the same time I know that the B is where its at and have had, done, and built lots of B's. I think that by the time I get all the parts together for a B swap I could spend the same on a turbo setup for the D and it would make more power.

Now my civic is my DD right now so I know a Stock B swap would be more reliable than a D that was never ment to have a turbo on it.

I really go back and forth and really dont know what to do...

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

So you're going to add yet ANOTHER thread to the hundreds already written for a topic that is beaten to death?

Get off the fence and pick one. It's your car. Your money. I usually find that people that are actually going to do something usually just do it. They don't have to ask for anyone's opinions.

b20hatchek

christ people quit freaking asking this question its gonna turn out to be another my d**k is bigger then your d**k competition

sho_shane

Guys I said from the being that if you did not want to post DONT POST!!! But dont come in here and talk ****. I give out alot of good advice around here and im a productive member of this forum. Im not hurting when I ask about something im on the fence about and you dont have to come in here and run your mouth.

This will not turn into a my d**k is bigger thread cus its not about that. Im talking about MY car and what I should do.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You're not discovering anything new by asking this tired old question. Do a search and you will see the SAME answers being given every time. Your question is no different than any body else that has asked this question in the past. There are those that will tell you to boost the D. Others will tell you to swap. Others still will tell you to swap AND boost. You will still be stuck on the fence after all is said and done.

This is almost as bad as the "What color should I paint my car?" question.

You'll never catch me asking anyone what I should do with MY car or how I should do it.

93egSLEEPER

My GSR (187whp) runs on single turbos (200-220whp setups) and it cost me only a portion of what a turbo motor takes to build and maintain. Ive been down both roads, I had 350whp LSV a year ago but spun all the bearings out of it at the track. My GSR has been 100 times more reliable and fun, just not as fast. Good thing for me is Im almost done with school so that means another DD (sti) and a 600whp build for the civic

My end notes are go B-swap for reliability and room to grow.

PM me if you have any questions about my setup or anything else.

sethm

Just go with the turbo

Jestin25

i say gey a full d16z6 swap bottem to top and if it has high miles do a o.e refresh u should be able to boost 10 lbs safley

93egSLEEPER

All that equals the same price as a GSR or LSV setup which put together properly will be faster, more reliable, and get better mileage. Not to mention be a better DD setup cause God knows the D has no power til the snail spools.

trevek10

id go with the D but do the build right spend the extra money on actual motor parts upgrade.. if you look around lots of people still run a D at the track and they put out more than enough power to handle what you want
-Gl

kaiba

B swap + tur bro

Red_Army

you can try and defend this post however you want but in the end the B vs D has been done probably 1000 times since i first got here. and thats only a year ago. i have not seen anything not answered in some way when pertaining to this question.

as always make up YOUR mind its going in YOUR car with YOUR money. who cares what we think. you didn't need us to help you decide if you want white socks with sandals or black why ask about this?

to be helpful. b swap plus whatever you come on here to ask next.

apexi_rsx

wtf u smokin... 187hp car beats 200-220h car? thats like saying a b series would beat a K swap. 187hp is crank hp not to the wheels . u would be lucky to see 170hp to the wheels. a boosted stock D is putting out 200 to the wheels. takes alot of mods for a B series to beat up on a boosted D with just bolt ons. ive run 10psi on a gt28r for 2 years ive never been to the dyno yet but im pretty sure im near 200hp.Ive had no problems with oil burning or leaking anywhere. i redid about all my seals from the rear main to the head gasket. if u build a vitara& eagle combo u can push into the 300hp mark. i dislike the cheap vitara because they do lower compression more then anyone would like. id rather have arias or wiescos. im in the same boat as u i have a spare Z6 in the garage with no funds to build it yet. i have rods and benson sleeves. goodluck with ur build i hope u make the choice to build a D then swap a B. look into bisimoto turbo cams =o) if ur going to build a D dont go cheap and build it rite and u will be happy

sho_shane

Red your very grumpy, go find head and smile...

ej1916

Are you going to turbo your current motor or do a swap to another D and turbo that? Because you said your car loses a quart of oil a week? Thats a lot of money thrown away just refilling it. I'm usually for D series turbo but from what I see I say just throw a B in there and drive it since its going to be ur DD.

sho_shane

Iv had a turbo'ed B20 and just thought It would be nice to have a Turbo dirty D.

I was thinking Z6 head swap to a Mini Me then turbo that.

93egSLEEPER

LOL dont tell me my car has 187bhp when its been dynod at 187whp. Trust me 187whp NA is equivalent to 200-210whp boosted. ANYONE who knows cars and has been around the block knows less power NA will keep up with a slightly higher HP boosted car. EXAMPLE #1 500whp boosted runs 10.8 in the 1/4. 375WHP NA K runs 10.7.
Example#2 Stock srt-4 230bhp runs 14.2 in the 1/4 Stock ITR 195bhp runs 14.1 w/ a good driver.
I still cant believe you tried to tell me I dont know how much power my setup is making....you are unreal.

MonkeyMagic

do your thinking on the ******* and stop wasting this forum's time.

only replies you'll get pertaining to your eleven billionth version of the b vs d thread are going to be from people who have no idea wtf they are talking about and probably have no business changing their own oil. it's 2011, there is no more debate, we know what both motors can do and what it requires to do it.

and 'dirty d' wth is that? like taking mom's book club and calling them the black print gang. there goes any respect you had with anyone who may actually be able to help you.

besides, like someone else said.. if you have to ask.. you aren't going to do it. or you'd have done it already.

you shouldn't argue with idiots.. they'll bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

sho_shane

You dont have a clue what your talking about. If you dont have something helpfull to say please shut your mouth...

MonkeyMagic

what might i not know? i do know if you can't google a frickin swap you should at least think twice before clicking 'new topic.'

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Now you get upset because you get some negative replies and tell people not to post. Can't have it both ways.

MonkeyMagic

let's start this thread over again, all differences aside.. you know your budget.

you can see how much the parts for a swap will cost. (swap)

then the things you'll add on.. (new clutch, t-belt kit, fancy header, intake, etc)

you can see how much the parts for a turbo will cost. (turbo, manifold, piping, blowoff, wastegate, downpipe)

you can't see how much all the extra **** required to go turbo will cost, cause you haven't don't the research to even realize it yet. (fuel system, cooling system, all the random gaskets and pipes and pieces that will nickle and dime the **** out of you)

you can see how much the parts to just fix what you have will cost.

you know whether you'll be paying someone to do the work. or admit to yourself what you can realistically do yourself. (anyone can swap a motor, but welding up all the pieces of the turbo system and doing all the random fab work gets $$ quick)

you know that you'll have to factor in additional cost of paying for tuning, and the parts that need to go along with it for a turbo. (still have to weld in that damn pan bung that you totally forgot about when you started, and after you get it tuned the stock clutch is toasted.. now what?)

then realize that no matter what you do there will be things that you still haven't considered. (honda wants how much for each injector o rings you lost pulling the motor?!?!! you just got the dump tube back from the machinist and it hits the crank pulley?!!?)

add these up and see what you can realistically afford.

[/thread]

Estee.Flows

This is very true; A naturally aspirated 187whp is more than equivalent to a forced inducted 200-210whp. For example, a buddy of mine owns a 95' Acura Integra GSR Sedan with ITR cams along with basic bolt-ons, meanwhile another buddy of mine owned a 93' Honda Civic Si Hatchback with a full Y8 turbo swap dyno-tuned @ 8psi, at 8psi, the hatch made 215whp on a Mustang dyno, while the GSR sedan has never even seen a simple street tune. Running for a launch, both cars were basically neck and neck the whole way, even race. However, on the freeway, from a 2nd gear roll at about 40mph, the hatch wouldn't start pulling away until the end of 3rd. Naturally aspirated motors will always have true instant power while forced induction cars usually have to wait until a certain RPM range to build up full boost, thus resulting in the wait of power until full boost limit is reached.

EDIT:

To OP, I've been on both sides of the train track and have built a variety of different set-ups, seeing as I am now "leaving the game", I still love nothing more than raw, instant, naturally aspirated power. To answer your original question, a simple boosted SOHC will most likely be more affordable than a well conditioned DOHC VTEC swap. It all depends on what you're willing to spend; a simple SOHC turbo set-up almost always cost less than building an all-motor DOHC that's probably making about the same amount of power, if not less. D-series are no longer considered to be the "underdogs", Vitara set-ups are proven to be worthy builds while the N/A DOHC/DOHC VTEC guys still manage to make a fair amount of power. Maintaining a turbo'd car doesn't really require much attention as long as you're keeping up with regular tune-ups and oil changes. Good luck with the decision and hopefully you'll find your calling...

sho_shane

Thank you very much for the post. This is the kinda info im looking for. To me its not about whats the best or mines bigger then yours. Its about whats best for me and my needs. I dont care about being the fastest. I care about a fun car that has power out of corners and will still perform well at the 1/8 mile track down the road. Again thank you very much, people like you are what make a great forum...

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

B-swap-3
Turbo-3
B-swap/+turbo-1