gsrekrevs210k

got into my car today right after i left the bank, car started right up, was running at o/t prior to shutting it off, when leaving i noticed my coolant temp shooting through the roof to H so i immediately turned her off and coasted into the gas station down the street. let it cool off for a few minutes, figured i was low on coolant due to the fluxuation of the temp guage earlier that day. my thermostat is probably also in need of being replaced considering my top coolant hose was hot as hell but the bottom was cold, and car was def at o/t. anyways thats not the main problem. when trying to start the car up my fuel pump wouldnt prime, the c/e never came on as it does with the fuel pump. checked my grounds, theyre good. fuses, fine. thinking it could be the main relay??? something else that baffled me though is that when turning the key to the 2nd position to crank it, there was nothing. not even a click noise. i know my starter isnt bad, because all of the sudden after holding the key on all the way for a about a minute the motor cranked right up and ran fine. then when getting to my house, shutting it off and trying to start it again it wouldnt start. same symptoms, no prime, no crank. could my battery be dead or not getting enough crank amps even though reading 12 volts on a meter? is it just my main relay? ive looked around a lot on HT but everyone elses problem seems to just be the fuel pump, and their engine still cranks, but my engine doesnt crank at all... someone please share some wisdom with this fellow honda lover. thank you and all feed back is appreciated.

Former User

Do the headlights and hazard lights work? If not, clean and tighten the battery posts and connectors, as well as the important battery ground attached to the chassis.

gsrekrevs210k

yes, the headlights and hazards both work. after reading all night on here about other people's problems ive pretty much pinpointed that it has to be the main relay, after removing it and exposing it, it seems like 2 or more of the solder points have weakened and look ''fried'' and maybe slightly cracked. besides knowing that, i tried to start my car this morning just for the hell of it, fuel pump kicked(main relay click 1) then c/e went off(main relay click 2) but then with key fully turned, no final click and no starter. but i could here multiple clicking noises coming directly from my relay as the key was held all the way. is it just the main relay? all the symptoms are starting to point the finger at mr. mitsuba rz 0132

ps thanks ron, ive been reading your advice on here for ever, just took me 3 years to finally register on HT lol

Former User

You may have two separate problems because a bad main relay would not prevent the starter from cranking the engine.

1) Resolder the main relay

2) Check whether the rubber stopper that presses on the starter switch located at the top of the clutch pedal is damaged or has fallen out. If that's fine, check whether the small starter solenoid wire gets battery voltage with the key in ON(III) and the clutch pedal depressed. Also check whether the large starter wire from the battery has battery voltage. If both of those are fine, then the starter itself may be bad. Remove it and have it tested at an auto parts store.

gsrekrevs210k

what about this, i took the relay completely out, turned the key to the 3rd pos. holding it and the starter did crank... for a second. then nothing. it quit cranking.

i dont have the necessary tools to resolder the relay so i went ahead and bought one because im for sure that my relay is still bad. 1of2 problem solved??

the rubber stopper is still there, that was the first thing i checked this morning after reading previous threads that you had explained this problem. i havent checked voltage yet. its too cold outside ive been going out in intervals to tinker with things only to come back in shortly after to warm up

Former User

With the new main relay installed, does the fuel pump now routinely run/prime for 2 seconds after the key is turned to ON(II)?

gsrekrevs210k

i dont know yet, i havent gotten the part and wont for another 4 hours at 3pm my time.

but i just went and turned the key to on(II) and left it there, after a while the fuel pump primed out of no where, like the voltage was trying to pass through the relay, but at on(III) still no cranking. im waiting for a friend to come over so i can use his out of his 96 civic. assuming his relay is in perfect condition, should my car then start up like normal?? if not is it possible the starter relay is bad too? is there even such a thing?

Former User

You definitely have at least two separate problems - fuel pump priming and no crank.

Make sure fuses 44 and 13 are firmly seated. You may also want to try replacing them.

Do the voltage tests that I mentioned for the starter.

gsrekrevs210k

i will check those fuses again, i may have over looked them to begin with. i will also try the voltage tests as well. its just funny to me that this sort of thing would happen out of no where, no warning signs or anything, and multiple things all at once? just seems unlikely. but i will keep fighting with it. thanks Ron for youre time, i know i havent gotten this thing running yet but your advice is much appreciated. thank you sir

gsrekrevs210k

just checed the fuses, number 44 i believe is supposed to be a 15a fuse, but there was a 20a in its place, so i replaced it with a new 15a. the #13 fuse was fine. so i believe that covers that portion. as far as the voltage test to the starter, can this be done by myself only and without another persons help? how do i hold the key ON(III) and observe the meter at the same time? my meter wires are only about 1 and a half feet long and dont have alligator clips meaning i have to hold them on to whatever it is im checking

gsrekrevs210k

i did however check battery voltage. its reading 12.56 volts off, key ON(I) 12.4 ON(II) 12.3 and i checked the main power line and ground to the starter, it reads 12.5 volts off, but when i turn the key to the ON(II) position, it goes to 3 volts wtf!?

Former User

You'll need a buddy's help.

Former User

Do you hear the starter solenoid click when the key in first turned to ON(III)? If so, this may be a sign that the starter is bad. However, you should still do the voltage tests I mentioned.

gsrekrevs210k

i might be misunderstanding but ON(I) is accessories, ON(II) is fuel pump prime and ON(III) is key fully turned to the point where it comes back to ON(II) once motor is running correct? because its at the key pos. ON(II) that the volts drop when checking voltage to the starter. the same key pos. as when the fuel pump primes, not ON(III) i havent been able to do the test yet with the key turned all the way on and clutch pressed because i dont have anyone to help me at this current time

gsrekrevs210k

ok this thing is really starting to **** me off. just replaced the main relay with a brand new borg warner relay from oreily auto parts. plugged it in. turned the key to ON(II) fuel pump primed. did it a few times. then it quit priming all together. now when i turn the key it doesnt prime. and it still wouldnt start when it was priming. wtf is going on with this pos!!!??? im at my wits end im about to drag this thing to the scrap yard because right now thats about all its worth to me. i dont understand. what is wrong with this thing?

Former User

Clean and tighten the G1 battery ground attached to the chassis, the G3 transmission ground, and the G101 ground on the thermostat housing.





Also test the ignition switch:

delsolintegra

I agree. Definitely the ground wires on the thermostat housing. Clean them.