mark_dc2

Ok having a stall issues..sometimes the engine just dies but this happens only when I start up..mostly happens after I drive it..

Last week I noticed my car stalled after I started it..I replaced my spark plug noticed they were bad been like almost 2 years..I gap it to book spec..

The spark plug wire are still good got them last year also the disputer cap/cover..but I'll check them when I get home from work..I got new timing belt/all belts and new water pump done at the Honda dealer last year..also new starter..just got a new clutch like month half ago put 1400 on it already..


I do need to replace my fuel filter been like 2 years now..

Also test the alternator by checking the batts volts..it's pumping 14.+V so it's still working..I check the battery after like 1 hour later with out the car on and it's 12.60V or so..

Also when the car is in idle the rpm is just under 1 thousand like 2 lines under it..

What symptoms could be causing this? What other thing do I need to check?
I'll be buying a new fuel filter after work..

Is this a sign of a bad ignition switch going bad?

Crashtestdummy

sounds like a vacuum leak honestly. Is your ac on when it dies? Could be a clogged fuel filter but seems to me like it wouldn't start if it was bad enouigh to choke the motor out that badly

mark_dc2

No ac on..
Also I need to replace my air filter still good..will clean my throttle carb aswel and put new fuel filter.. Spark wires good and disputer cap good and ignition coil new last year/new timing belts and all new belts..new starter too..

When I feel it going to stall I rev the engine a bit and won't stall..it only stalls when after I drive it when the engine warm/hot then I park somewhere then I start it..it will stall sometimes.. Could this be caused by wearing out ignition switch?


Thanks

EHondaJDM

cap rotor wires plugs

mark_dc2

Yes the cap rotor still good and spark plug wires still look good there about 2 or so years old..I'll check them and clean them out if need or replace

I will buy new fuel filter and clean out the carb and check for air leaks when I get off work...

After the drive and park then I start back up it starts most the time..but when I stop the engine and crank it back up right away it will stall most the time i have to let it cool for a bit for it to start back up then I'll rev it just a bit to keep it form stalling..but the car runs great and sounds great it's quite no noise..

Crashtestdummy

The reason i was wanting to know if your ac was on is cause my car had a vacuum leak and would die if it was hot and the ac was on after i came to a start. It would start to stutter at idle and if you didn't give it gas it would die. Fixed the leak and it stopped doing it.

fcm

MM&Y of car would help.

There are a number of things that are effected by heat, because revving the engine when you notice it is going to stall, [keeping it from stalling] would point to IACV or possibly the TPS, the first things I would check.

It is unlikely that revving the engine would have any effect on a fuel issue like PGM-FI Main Relay, fuel pump or fuel filter, more likely the IACV or TPS.

It is also unlikely to be electrical, like ign. switch alt. or batt., although a coil or ICM will be effected by heat.

Do this... when car stalls and before you try a restart, turn ign. switch to run, [not start] and listen for the fuel pump priming the fuel system, the pump should run for a few sec., if it does, turn key to start, does engine start? 94

mark_dc2

ok i think im sure i found the problem most likely was the cause.. heres what happened from start...
last week got off work went to store came back in the car..car starts then stalled..start it like 3 more times stalled..pop the hood checked my battery volt with out the car running it was 12.60 or so volts..so i was like cant be my battery still good..went to try to start it again then starts..drove on the side walk left the car on checked the battery volts its was 12.20 or so i was like huh my alternator is bad..suppose to be like 14.30 or so volts..so i drove home got new plugs put it on start good so i was like oh fixed the stall problem..
heres my beat up dead plugs..


well today i bought new fuel filter/air cleaned the carb checked for air leaks..
when i took the battery off the positive clamp to the battery was bit lose it was clamped all the way but i can grab it and move it side to side a bit..so that explained in the first place when i checked my battery was at 12.20 volts when i was running..
so when i drive around the battery would move around and when i stop and park the battery wont have a good connection due to the positive clamp not plug in tight...i just put a piece of metal to clamp it tight n the positive for now till i get to the store but there closed right now just to make it there..
heres the weak cheap positive battery clamp


also this is normal idle RPM right?



well i replaced fuel filter/ air and clean the carb and all it was is the battery clamp was lose..i dont know but i will drive it for more test after i get the new battery clamp..but yeah i needed to maintain it and it need to be cleaned/change anyways..ahhhhh im retarded huh.

also cleaned up the disputer cap just sand a bit off the build up and cleaned it make sure it has good electric connections..

fcm

So it was not a no start problem, it was a no crank problem.

Fixing the batt will solve the no crank problem, it will however not solve the stalling problem, [unless alt. has a problem] the car will run with the batt. disconnected.

Question... is the ring terminal on the amp power wire "sandwiched" between the two clamp ends?

If so, remove it and place it on the outside of clamp, also make sure batt. clamp is all the way down on the post before you tighten it. 94

mark_dc2

yeah the amp cable is sandwich the lug broke so i striped the wire and split it in half like a C and solder it..

as for my stalling issues i dont get it anymore..i drove it around and stop the car then start it back like 20 times or so..it starts great and no stall anymore...

the battery clamp on the positive was lose i can move it side to side but still had a clamp force were it wont pop out..i assume when it was lose it would not have a good enough power to hold it for the start....

with new fuel filter/air filter/cleaned disputer/new spark plugs/still good spark plug wires/fixed the battery clamp/put some injector cleaners it runs great and no more stalling on start ups after i drive it..when the car is off the batter reads about 12.60 volts and when the car is on the battery volts is about 14.18...so yeah its good now all the things i did seem to fixed the problem i dont know if it was the battery or fuel filter/air/cleaned out the carb due to carbon build up/clean the disputer cap..i did have a minor coolent leak today while testing it around..little hose was leaking so i just cut the end off and plug the rest back in had some more hose space to just use it again..

thanks for your advices....ill report back if i get that problem again..seem to run really quite..