foolmoon70

The Throttle Position Sensor is bad on my Accord, but it is the USDM TPS which has the rivets.I tried using a dremel w/cut off wheel to make a 'groove' in the rivet head in order to stick a flat-head screwdriver in and try to turn it ,
and this didn't work.The rivet head is so small and fragile that once I got a deep enough line to use a screwdriver in, the screwdriver just 'chewed up' what was left of the rivet head.(?)
Is there a right way of doing this??
Will I have to buy a new throttle body complete w/sensor?
Thanks for any help.

phootbag

Honda did not intend for the TPS to be removed. It will be easiest to replace the throttle body.

uberEFtuner

The method you did is the easiest. Use a cheap thin cut off wheel and make a slot. Then use a hammer to tap the flat head screw driver into the slot. If it got messed up you can try again the just the shaft of the rivet. I would let in soak with pb blaster too.

GhostAccord

Hacksaw blade


Small flat tip screwdriver


once it breaks free it comes out very easily


Bobs your uncle


Don't forget, when you put the new TPS on there you will need to calibrate it for 0.4v - 0.5V closed throttle and 4.5v - 5v Wide open throttle.

HondaPartsHero

Great write up, heres a semi how to for adjusting once you've got the new one on, definetly don't replace the whole throttle body: http://hondaswap.com/~pills/obd1guide.html

foolmoon70

Thanks for the replies.The pics. really helped me see how deep I needed to cut with the dremel. I got a chance to try again yesterday(Sun.)and was able to get the tps off this time, and got the new tps on.
Unfortunately it didn't resolve the problems.The car still has a rough idle, and still 'jerks & pulls' when I accelerate, and revs 'up and down' while decelerating.
Trying to keep it at an exact speed while driving 20-45mph is impossible.As soon as I reach the desired speed, 35mph for example, and let up ever so slightly on the accelerator, the engine/rpms start revving up and down as it decelerates.When you lightly push down on the accelerator again it 'jerks' and starts accelerating, only to do the revving up and down(rpm needle bouncing)the moment you let off the gas.
It's a 94 Accord DX, with an engine from a 4th generation Accord (90-93), F22A1.
Automatic transmission, with aftermarket exhaust and air filter.The car cranks first try every time, has good compression while driving, there are no leaks and no smoke.
Since I bought it 3 months ago I've replaced the tps, idle air control, new spark plugs, oil change, coolant system flush, new battery, checked/replaced all fuses, checked for vacuum leaks/bad hoses and cleaned the throttle body.
I'm not a mechanic by trade, I just know the basics.I'm now thinking it could be the egr valve or possibly the fuel pressure regulator??
If anyone has some advice it would be greatly appreciated, and thanks again for the earlier advice/help.

holmesnmanny

Are you sure the transmission isn't just slipping?

foolmoon70

I'm pretty sure it's not the transmission.It doesn't ever slip while driving or hesitate to go into gear.The D4 light doesn't blink, it doesn't leak and the trans. fluid has always been clean and full.
In my car there is usually just one 'jerk' from the engine as soon as you let off the accelerator, and then the rpm gauge bounces as the engine revs up and down until it gets to about 25mph, or until I accelerate again.Other than that the car feels/drives/shifts completely normal.

Bwill9886

Did you set the TPS to it's proper voltages? HondaPartsHero's link has the proper settings for it near the bottom of the link page. If it is not properly set, you will definitely still have problems.

The transmission slipping isn't going to cause all the issues he is having.

foolmoon70

I tried to check the voltage,(+ to the middle pin inside tps/- to chasis)/.5 volts closed throttle, 4.5 volts open throttle....but I believe the voltmeter I was using was faulty because the numbers on display would just jump and skip around and never give a solid reading.I plan to get a new ohm meter and try again.I also wanted to clean my EGR Valve, so if anyone knows the proper way to do this I would appreciate the info.

Bwill9886

Alright, report back about the voltages.

The method for the EGR ports is in the forum FAQ under the engine section.

cd5-Turbo

Yeah asap plz mines doing that too. Just like him i swapped countless sensors as well as the o2 and map which helped only a little. mines boggs at on hills and turns off with a big line of cars behind me I didn't think untill now that it could be the tps

Bwill9886

Well if you have an ohm meter you can check yours. There's no need to wait on him as you should check it regardless of what he finds.

I guarantee your TPS is giving you problems if the voltages are not in spec, so check them out using the posted method.

foolmoon70

Thanks for the good advice.I tried to get a ohm reading using a different voltmeter and still had no luck getting a solid number.I took a shot and adjusted the tps slightly and put everything back together.It seemed to do the trick.It drives completely normal now, no hesitation/jerk and no more bouncing rpm gauge.I suppose I just got lucky, and I plan to buy a better ohm meter and get an accurate reading.
So I would say if anyone is having the same symptoms as my car, I would definitely check the tps.Even though I put a brand new tps on, it didn't make any difference until I adjusted it.

Bwill9886

Glad you got it resolved. When you can, definitely try to get it accurately setup, as you may or may not have slight issues with it in various driving conditions.

For example, I adjusted my friends TPS and at first it was reading nothing at idle. I was able to get it to 0.33v after tinkering with it, but couldn't get it to move further at that point in time (thing was a major pain to mess with in this particular car). It idled just fine, but soon started dying when approaching a stop. When I was later able to get it into proper spec (0.45v-0.50v), it ran like a dream.

Again, you may not have any issues (as you may have put it right in spec, who knows?) but it's always good to check if you can.

ThaHondaMan

i dont know if the problem is my TPS or what, but in "park" my idle fluctuates from 1000-2000 rpms. driving while in gear and coming to a complete stop still in gear i dont have this problem, only while in park. any suggestions?

GhostAccord

That is a pretty common issue with older Accords. It's referred to as a surging idle, usually caused by one of a couple different things.

- Dirty IACV or FITV out of adjustment
- Vacuum leak (gasket or vacuum hose)
- Air bubbles in coolant system

ThaHondaMan

thanks for the insight! ill check those possibilities out.