DJKEV

hey guys i have 00 si...running low boost (that's a garrett t3/t4 ball bearing turbo) on a pretty much stock b16...my constant oil pressure is between 80 - 85 psi on WOT am currently using Castrol 20W50 not synthetic just regular oil...i see my ideal oil pressure within couple minutes of switching on the engine (oil changes have been done every 2500, 2800 the most)....now i wana go full-synthetic what are the suggestions?? Should I even go full synthetic.....do i need to?? Let me know whats up?? thanks!!

Lord Helmet

using Amsoil 10w-30 every 5k for me. Not a single issue for me

DelSolMarine

I switched to Mobil1 with OEM honda filters after reading some road race articles that did oil temperature monitoring. Mobil 1 had the coolest temperatures in that article (I saw this years ago and dont remember where it is but I am sure a search would find the results) but I have never had a problem with their 10w30 synthetic... changing out every 2.5k miles... this is also with one of the B&R 1 gallon catch can kits with 2 return lines going back into the block...

Aradin

Pennzoil 10w-30 is what I use.

alperx

from this topic I understand that all oil are about the same as long as you change it around 2k-3k miles..

B.

this is what i run aswell.

SiRCiviC94

is it that hot that everyone runs 10-30. ill be using syntec 5W30. been using it for years. il change it out depending on driving. regualar 3000 miles or so... harsh driving a bit less. it doesnt burn any oil

everyone here burns a lot of oil and needs the 20w50 lol?

CaliforniaDad

iTrader: (6)

I was just thinking the same thing.
Boosted B18C1 @23psi 425whp W/water methanol injection & I'm running Torco SR-1 5w40 changed every 2500-3000 miles. It normally looks like water when I change it. I was running the Valvoline VR-1 for a few days to save money and I noticed oil temp was up 10-15 degrees after cruising on the fwy @ 70de-ish for 30-40 mins. Switched back to the Torco SR-1 later in the week and oil temp drop back to 185-200 range a good 15 degrees cooler than before. I'm thinking of trying out the Brad Penn semi-synthetic "green Oil" but worried about it's heat reduction properties.


Anyone ever used this?

CrackingVTEC

iTrader: (2)

Damn, I've been running Royal Purple in mine with wix filters for a while now. After reading this whole thread makes me wanna change it now. I just did an oil change last weekend. :/

racebum

answer is different for a track day than it is street driving

redline 30w or 40w is probably your best shot for track days. it's a real group 5 oil and is one of the few that won't sludge or break down at 300deg

for street driving?

something with a good deal of zinc, good additive pack and good cold flow

i'm kind of an oil ***** myself. whatever is cheaper between M1, penzoil platinum, valvoline syn or castrol edge is what i grab. seems to vary by week at walmart

Slacker93eg

Synthetic oil is the best option for most situations. And the "once I go synthetic I can't go back" is a total myth. They tell you that to keep you buying the expensive oil. Most causes of leaks or burning oil when switching to synthetic oil is because of high mileage motors. The synthetic has high detergent content and cleans the engine while it's lubricating it (which it does VERY well). Once the engine starts getting cleaned out, seals and gaskets that have gunky oil build up become clean and leak from that area. The problem is not in the oil, it's in your high mileage motor.

On a fresh build, with brand new gaskets/seals, I would go with synthetic 100%. Once my motor is ready, I will be using Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w40 (gauranteed for 15,000 miles) and change it every 3000 miles. Don't forget the synthetic oil filter.

rich7777

^^^ well said

SiRCiviC94

synthetic filter for what.

Slacker93eg

https://honda-tech.com/forums/moderated-threads-55/whats-difference-between-regular-100%25-synthetic-oil-filter-2854608/

quickspool

A friend of mine uses this in his 8sec turbo mustang with good results. I did for a few track days and then tried brad Penn and my turbo[gt35]**** the bed after one track day. My turbo is older but had absolutely no shaft play before. Could have been coincidence but I learned after it has a tendency to foam but yet heard some hi power turbo cars using it [t1?]

MiraiZ

This is the best but its like $75 for 4 liters

DDTECH

Mobil1 is a good oil for the newer cars. Our cars however your flat tapper rockers..which means we need alot of zinc and other things that have been taking out from shelf oils.

I run Valvoline's VR1 10w-30 race oil(blue), i find they havent removed all the zinc out the EPA has made mobil1 and others remove..

Daniel Ra

5w-20 Castrol and I'm running smooth in the b20b had it for 4 years 300 hp running strong, the key to success is a lot of money ripping it apart and putting back together and build engine up front before damage occurs.going for 500 on retune

1HGEJ2

iTrader: (1)

i have great succes with mobil 1 5w50 fsx1 on k and b series turbo or na.

Balor_Gr

This is a nice revive . We now have very strict rules on zinc in europe. What people use these days?

Aradin

I used to use Rotella T5 synthetic blend in anything I cared about. It's a fantastic oil that holds up extremely well to heat and will clean the inside of an engine until it's like new. Technically being a diesel oil, it resists thermal breakdown in high heat scenarios, e.g. a turbo Honda w/ oil cooled turbo, and it's fairly high detergent. It will clean everything it touches until the aluminum looks like new, whereas most standard oils will leave everything with a gold-ish tinge. They have put the price up on it quite a bit recently unfortunately.

Past 5 years or so I've gotten into the habit of using cheap, throwaway engines so I just toss some cheap Supertech conventional in it and it seems to hold up fine between oil changes.