Question: Swap a D16Y8 to D15B (D15z7)

[GutoViP]

Hello my friends, i'm from Brazil and i have a Civic 2000 EX Automatic. I am very interested in swapping the engine of my car for a D15B VTEC with 3-stage. Here in my country no there is this model of engine and that is why I need your help. So, what is needed to transform one EX into an VI-RS original? And where can I get import these parts?

I would be grateful for the help.

Here is a picture of my vehicle:

[GutoViP]

[Big[V]]

3 stage vtec engine is d15z7. look it up in the internet to know more.

manual tranny is s40 stock whilst auto is cvt type m4va.

[zacheryleatherw]

no its not mine came on a d15b it had two v tec sylinoids...yup butchered that. they are very very slow my d16z6 would smoke the **** out of one. The guy that sold me the motor said it was just as fast as a d16 and boy was he wrong. One plus side to the motor is that when the v tec hits it is very loud and a **** load stronger than stock...but in the end its still a d15=slow

[zacheryleatherw]

oh and mine was a ex all you haft to do is hook up the green wire i believe....i had both hooked up and it never gave me a problem

[GutoViP]

Originally Posted by Big[V]

3 stage vtec engine is d15z7. look it up in the internet to know more.

manual tranny is s40 stock whilst auto is cvt type m4va.

Tnx Big[V], I was already aware of this information, I would like to know about the other differences between the models and it would take to switch them to become a true Vi-RS.I was already aware of this information, I would like to know about the other differences between the models and it would take to switch them to become a true Vi-RS. You could tell me what?

The Vi-RS has disc brakes in the rear? The suspension is the same as the EX?

The finishing parts I want to find on the internet and buy them or ask a friend of mine who lives in Japan to buy them for me.

Tnx again.

Originally Posted by zacheryleatherw

no its not mine came on a d15b it had two v tec sylinoids...yup butchered that. they are very very slow my d16z6 would smoke the **** out of one. The guy that sold me the motor said it was just as fast as a d16 and boy was he wrong. One plus side to the motor is that when the v tec hits it is very loud and a **** load stronger than stock...but in the end its still a d15=slow

You mean the D15B with 2 VTEC solenoids is not true D15Z7 VTEC with 3-stage? Your car is CVT tranny?

I found several engines D15B with 2 VTEC solenoids sale on Ebay, but I'm afraid that is not the engine of the Civic Vi-RS...

[zacheryleatherw]

I had the stock tranny from my ej8, I just blew my motor and he sold me that. On the block it said d15b...I think that its just to swich over from normal to like a gas saving valve then the other solenoid is to switch over to the more powerfull vtec. To get that you haft to get the ecu...witch is hard to find from what i herd and run a extra wire from the ecu to the other.

[GutoViP]

Originally Posted by zacheryleatherw

I had the stock tranny from my ej8, I just blew my motor and he sold me that. On the block it said d15b...I think that its just to swich over from normal to like a gas saving valve then the other solenoid is to switch over to the more powerfull vtec. To get that you haft to get the ecu...witch is hard to find from what i herd and run a extra wire from the ecu to the other.

thought the ECU the D15B CVT to sell, it would be plug and play with the whip EJ8? I would have to replace the original whip by Vi-RS?


I found one D15B selling one ebay, Is equal to that used in the Vi-RS?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-D...item3a58ac6680

[zacheryleatherw]

I beleive so but for it to be the true vi-rs you haft to get the harness and ecu cause it has diff sensors than the usdm version. Thats why they used my stock intake manifold and dizzy. All it does is help with gas...just if you need to save gas keep it out of vtec

[GutoViP]

Originally Posted by zacheryleatherw

I beleive so but for it to be the true vi-rs you haft to get the harness and ecu cause it has diff sensors than the usdm version. Thats why they used my stock intake manifold and dizzy. All it does is help with gas...just if you need to save gas keep it out of vtec

You can use just the head of the D15B 3-stage with the block D16y8, together with the D15B ECU? Keep the wiring of the D16?

[trustdestruction]

To use that engine you must use the 99-00 P2J ECU. This should be pretty easy to find if you're keeping the automatic. If you convert to manual though it is near impossible to find a manual P2J ECU.

The only thing you have to do to install that engine is run one more VTEC wire. The double-VTEC solenoid has two wires, one is red(/white?), the other is green/yellow.

The red wire needs to be ran from the red VTEC solenoid wire to pin A21 on the ECU. You already have the green/yellow wire.

I think you should be good to go after doing that.

Though you might need a 5-wire O2 sensor, i'm not sure. You'll have to check into that.

[GutoViP]

Originally Posted by trustdestruction

To use that engine you must use the 99-00 P2J ECU. This should be pretty easy to find if you're keeping the automatic. If you convert to manual though it is near impossible to find a manual P2J ECU.

The only thing you have to do to install that engine is run one more VTEC wire. The double-VTEC solenoid has two wires, one is red(/white?), the other is green/yellow.

The red wire needs to be ran from the red VTEC solenoid wire to pin A21 on the ECU. You already have the green/yellow wire.

I think you should be good to go after doing that.

Though you might need a 5-wire O2 sensor, i'm not sure. You'll have to check into that.

Thank you, very much!

Let me get this straight, then the block D16Y8 is compatible with the head of the D15B (d15Z7), if only I use the ECU P2J-J62 (I will remove the automatic 4-speed and use the CVT) instead of P2P. The VTEC another wire is needed even using the ECU P2J?

And the intake and exhaust manifold? I use such parts of the engine D15B or D16?

I found a message saying that:

"The" D15B "I am referring to comes from the OBD2 (1996-1999), EK3, Civic VTi Civic Ferio Vi. With the exception of the dual VTEC solenoids, it's Identical to the D16Y5, or the D16Y8 but with EGR. "

It is necessary to use the EGR? It is located in that part of the engine?

[trustdestruction]

ah, there might be some emissions stuff like EGR that you have to do. I think yea, the EGR is by the intake manifold.

The wire is needed because your current engine harness doesn't have the wire in it.

[GutoViP]

Originally Posted by trustdestruction

ah, there might be some emissions stuff like EGR that you have to do. I think yea, the EGR is by the intake manifold.

The wire is needed because your current engine harness doesn't have the wire in it.

I got it, then I have to buy these parts:
- Intake manifold of D15B
- ECU P2J of J62-D15B
- Head of D15B
- Wire of engine D15B
- CVT type m4va

Anything else I've missed?

PS: I want to put all the internal and external finishes of the Civic Vi-RS, including the instrument panel, would be interesting to just buy a complete wiring?

[trustdestruction]

I don't know anything about the Vi-RS, we don't have them here.

[GutoViP]

Originally Posted by trustdestruction

I don't know anything about the Vi-RS, we don't have them here.

Here in Brazil too, we don't have here... the same about D15B 3-stage engine.


But the config to perfect engine swap is right? I intend to arrange for the purchase of such parts as soon as possible ... hehehehe

[trustdestruction]

Well, putting the D15B head on a D16Y8 makes me worry about a couple things...

1. cam-crank timing. It may be fine but i'm not really sure. I am leaning more towards it being fine though than it becoming a problem for you.

2. valve-piston clearance. Once again, I think it's fine, but i'm not 100% sure.


I think you have all the parts listed. Don't forget the head gasket. I'm also not sure if the D16Y8 head bolts will work.

[GutoViP]

Originally Posted by trustdestruction

Well, putting the D15B head on a D16Y8 makes me worry about a couple things...

1. cam-crank timing. It may be fine but i'm not really sure. I am leaning more towards it being fine though than it becoming a problem for you.

2. valve-piston clearance. Once again, I think it's fine, but i'm not 100% sure.


I think you have all the parts listed. Don't forget the head gasket. I'm also not sure if the D16Y8 head bolts will work.

What would crank-cam timing and valve-piston clearance?

Sorry, but I am beginner in this subject.... hehehehe

[trustdestruction]

If you don't know what either of those are this probably isn't something you should be doing.

When you start mismatching block to head, you can end up with problems.
Crank-Cam timing is the relationship between the timing of the head and the timing of the block. On most applications, you want the head and block both at TDC (top dead center) at the same time.
Because certain heads have different heights and certain blocks have different deck heights, certain combinations of block and head cause you to end up with a different distance between the crank and cam than the engine the head was originally from has. This causes the crank and cam to be out of sync with one another, meaning the timing is off.
Sometimes this can mean that you need to use a different length timing belt, and/or advance/retard the cam timing so that the head is at TDC when the block is at TDC.

valve-piston clearance is simply the distance between the valve and piston when the piston is at the top of its stroke. If you do not have clearance, the piston will hit the valve, which can/will cause you to eventually have bent valves at the very least, and possibly a hole in the top of the piston. If you have even LESS than no clearance, meaning the paths of the valve and piston intersect one another, the piston will hit the valve hard and the valve will bend and/or the piston will break.
Think of the piston as a semi truck and the valves as a bridge. If the semi truck is too tall to drive underneath the bridge, it will hit it.

[Big[V]]

Originally Posted by GutoViP

Tnx Big[V], I was already aware of this information, I would like to know about the other differences between the models and it would take to switch them to become a true Vi-RS.I was already aware of this information, I would like to know about the other differences between the models and it would take to switch them to become a true Vi-RS. You could tell me what?

The Vi-RS has disc brakes in the rear? The suspension is the same as the EX?

The finishing parts I want to find on the internet and buy them or ask a friend of mine who lives in Japan to buy them for me.

Tnx again.



You mean the D15B with 2 VTEC solenoids is not true D15Z7 VTEC with 3-stage? Your car is CVT tranny?

I found several engines D15B with 2 VTEC solenoids sale on Ebay, but I'm afraid that is not the engine of the Civic Vi-RS...

Sorry for the super late reply.

The RS exterior are all 99 facelift version and using EK9 style titanium color housing head lamps.

Unique to RS are the rear spoiler and side & rear Vi-RS decals.

Handling package is EXACTLY the same with EK4; Ek4 4 wheel disk brakes with front/rear stabilizers and Ek4 suspension. You can consider the RS is an EK4 with D15Z7.

Interior color is all black same is EK9. Unique to Vi-RS are the various printed carbon fiber style trims, EK4 style seats with blue/black upholstery and EK9 style cluster unique to RS.

Engine is using normal dual solenoid 130ps D15Z7 motor (lean burn VTEC-E & wild cam VTEC combined). It is no different that any Z7 out there.

CVT transmission M4VA Requires 37820-P2J-J63 ECU (If I remember correctly). Unique to RS is that the CVT mode switch on the right side steering console have modes D, S1 & S2 as opposed to normal CVT with E, D & S mode only. J63 CVT (RS) ecu is more aggressive than J62 CVT (non RS) ecu.

Manual transmission uses non LSD S40 gearbox with 4.058 final. Requires OBD2B 37820-P2J-J11 ECU. OBD2A 37820-P2J-003 can be used but require conversion harness.

If you are considering a full RS conversion with manual or CVT tranny, ideally the specific RHD RS harness should be used but any OBD2B wiring harness with CVT could be used but modifications required.

[94EG8]

The CVT tranny doesn't just bolt in, theres some cutting and welding required and some serious wiring.