DJYoshaBYD

completely wrong.. Yes, it does cause SOME uneven wear, but only if you dont have your camber adjusted with it.. and even if you dont, the REAL damage comes from not having the toe angle aligned..

I have had ALL of my cars lowered, and NEVER had an issue with the axles, tires, etc...

And what do you mean by "cambers".. makes no sense..

Bearings??? really? no.. lowering does not make that happen either, brosef..

You blow shocks from being TOO low, and NOT having aftermarket struts.. they blow from carelessness.. not from lowering..

please dont post misinformation.. it doesnt help

I dont know why every one rips on autozone axles.. you know that autozone doesnt MAKE the parts, right? ive used them on many different cars, many different times.. no issues.. if you get the right ones..

again, check the diff for play like stated earlier, and make sure that snap ring is locking into the tranny right..

jimmy o.

i had a OEM axle in it and ive never heard of a Kragen

the oem axle is the same legth as the new one...

DJYoshaBYD

ok.. then it has to be the place where the circlip holds in the axle in the diff.. have you checked that yet?

jimmy o.

well i jacked up both sides had someone run it though 1st through 4th the side where the axle pops out as soon as you let off the gas the wheel stops the other just spins think its a diff issue? And i cannot pull the axle out with my hand even if i try my hardest

DJYoshaBYD

no.. you dont have LSD... thats just how it works...

and your car puts ALOT more force on it than you can with your hand.. is you wheel hub or ANY of the components down there loose? like the a-arm, wheel hub, etc.?

jimmy o.

i dont think so but ill check again

DJYoshaBYD

get in there with a prybar and try to put a lil force on the uhb, just to check for play

jimmy o.

uhb? everything seems tight i dunt know....

DJYoshaBYD

ok.. then you need to take out your tranny.. we have already checked everything on the outside, so that only leaves one thing.. your tranny, where the axle plugs into the diff..

lets see:

replaced axles? pretty sure you said yes
new axles, so that means new circlips came with them.. thats been covered
no suspension/hub components are loose..

Only thing left is the tranny... you may be able to open the tranny and replace whatever is messed up.. you may just be better off replacing it with a used tranny...

jimmy o.

good im gonna start to yank this bitch out at least i have a good engine hoist to use

and yes i did replace that seal i bet that was where my bearing noise was coming from the entire time i owned it probably why the guy pawned it off on my

jimmy o.

i pulled the axle out again there is very noticeable play where the axle rides the spines on the inside of the trans i also couls move the axle from side to side up and down with it out of the hub

DJYoshaBYD

yup.. there you go.. that is your issue.. you have play in the diff.. take the tranny apart, and check it out.. all you hve to do is slide the case off of it... the diff on b/d honda trans are easy to f*** with.. take it apart, and lets have a look at it..

glad we are starting to narrow it down

jimmy o.

well a couple of hours later some cussing a few cuts later the engine is just about ready to come out and yes im pulling them both im gonna clean the bay fix a couple leak maybe a new t-belt and water pump so i dont have to go in there again for a while

on another note will be able to get around my a/c lines without unhooking them because i have r-12 and my a/c works so i dont wanna screw that up lol(ive never pulled an engine on a car with a/c lol

jimmy o.

engine is out i manged to avoid removing a/c

crazy irishman

put a 5mm spacer between the cv joint and wheel hub,that will push the drive further into the cup

Sean May

I had the same issue with my 86' Accord of the CV knuckle pulling out (over extending) on the inner side. I bought a new CV axle one from Autozone and it did the same on the first day of use. Then I decided to buy one from O'reilly and it was the same issue. I then tried replacing all the motor mounts including the transmission cross member. This didn't fix the issue so I replaced the wheel bearing, lower ball joint and wheel hub assembly. I even tried using a CV axle from an automatic trans from a junkyard that was slightly longer but the splines were slightly shorter and wouldn't lock into the trans.
After many days of labor I stumbled upon this thread and found that people recommended the Cardone CV axle. After finding one in town I slapped it in and everything seems to be fixed. The difference was the Cardone was 36 3/8" and the others were 36 5/16" .. What a nightmare.