battery relocation blowing 80amp fuse

[DelSolMarine]

nothing has been mounted i am just trying to get the car to start. Every time that i hook the negative cable to the battery it sparks and pops the 80 amp battery fuse. i cannot figure out what is wrong because i had got the car to start before I sent my valve cover to get some fittings welding and now after trying to put the car back together it wont start.

i have checked the 2 gauge wire going to the battery to see if it has any holes or something and it is perfectly fine.

let me know if you need more information or photos to help me in troubleshooting this problem

[B16acivicsedan91]

It looks to me like the pos and neg on the battery are on backwards in that pic if im not mistaken check that first red should be on positive or +.

[eviltwing35]

Originally Posted by B16acivicsedan91

It looks to me like the pos and neg on the battery are on backwards in that pic if im not mistaken check that first red should be on positive or +.

I agree it def looks like you have your terminals backwards and if that does not work get a meter and set it to test for continuity (should beep when you touch the two probes) put the black one to ground and the red to the battery cable. If it beeps you have chaffed the wire somewhere and it is grounding out.

[CRX T-Si]

80amp fuse is too small yo when you have the started connected to it.

If you notice the starter power wire is connected directly onto the battery. You cannot do anyless then 150amps if you want to make it work or run seperate wires to the battery.

1 for the starter with 150amps and the other at 80amps for everything else.

From the picture it does seem like you reveresed the wires but I sincerely hope you did not cause that would be a Dee Dee Dee moment and will pretend you did not.

[rudebwoy]

Originally Posted by CRX T-Si

80amp fuse is too small yo when you have the started connected to it.

If you notice the starter power wire is connected directly onto the battery. You cannot do anyless then 150amps if you want to make it work or run seperate wires to the battery.

1 for the starter with 150amps and the other at 80amps for everything else.

From the picture it does seem like you reveresed the wires but I sincerely hope you did not cause that would be a Dee Dee Dee moment and will pretend you did not.

the biggest fuse in the fuse box is 80A putting a bigger one in would cause a fire incase something shorted, thats how you start fires, their is a reason why the fuse is blowing, and its in the last pic. look at the battery connection in the box you can clearly see the ground cable is connected to the positive side of the battery, as you and everyone else already pointed out thats why the fuse is blowing.

[CRX T-Si]

Originally Posted by rudebwoy

the biggest fuse in the fuse box is 80A putting a bigger one in would cause a fire incase something shorted, thats how you start fires, their is a reason why the fuse is blowing, and its in the last pic. look at the battery connection in the box you can clearly see the ground cable is connected to the positive side of the battery, as you and everyone else already pointed out thats why the fuse is blowing.

let's correct this info a bit. Yes the biggest fuse in the fuse box is 80amps however as I had said before your STARTER gets "direct" current from the battery thru a 8gauge wire. So please do not get the facts mixed up. On a stock vehicle the starter wire is not fused please note.

The 80amp fuse is for interior lighting, you can check if you want but please do not give OP wrong info. One last thing the way the wire passed thru the firewall is not the best way because you did not protect the wire from the sharp edges of the firewall.

[rudebwoy]

his starter wire is not fused according to his pics, mine is installed exactly like his, except my alternator has its own independent wire directly from the battery box so the kill switch will also kill the alternator, and I also have a jump start terminal in the fender well.(different subject though) as the pics are he has the main wire ran to a distribution block (like I have also) then from the block to the starter, then again from the distribution block to the fuse box, then from the fuse box to the alternator, and yes he needs to put a gromet around that wire so it wont get cut by the fire wall.
now look at the pic of the battery box and tell me whats wrong with it.

[CRX T-Si]

The distribution block in the first pic is not a fused one from what I can tell, it looks like a round ground block that he used as a distribution block.

You are right that the starter wire is not fused in the pic cause it goes from the starter to the Distribution block but your fogetting that since the battery is now in the trunk the fuse is on that main wire(2ga) which now has a 80amp fuse.

The fuse is what you are not seeing cause he did not post a pic of it. If that 2ga wire runs the length of the car from the back to the front then that is a fire hazard. Right by the battery the fuse should be there no more then 2 feet from the battery and I will give this guy the benefit of the doubt that he did not flip + & -.

DelSolMarine please tell me that you did not make a thread to show that you switched the neg - and pos + then no one can help you cause that is just messed up if you did.

When I did my battery relocation I used what ever wire I had and on the actual battery terminal I had 2 red wires.

[rudebwoy]

ok I understand what you are saying now, you are saying that he installed a 80A fuse inline with the main battery cable correct? but there is no where in his post that he said he put a fuse inline of the starter, or main line. I think he should install a high amperage kill switch like moroso, and he should also power the alternator directly to the battery before the kill switch. my setup does not have a fuse in the main line, but now that we are talking about fire hazard I will now install one with 150A. I wish the moroso switch was a breaker type that will trip itself if the system shorted.

[TEAM_PROGRESS]

CABLES R ALL WRONG

[DelSolMarine]

i don't ever recall taking the battery out the truck however... the battery was backwards lol i admit it fully...

unfortunately the tach doesn't work now i am troubleshooting that now. the car does start though so... that's a plus and all the voltage is perfect so... the little box thing i am using is awesome....i got for 2 bucks at an audio store... it has a 2 gauge main line (the red wire) and then 4 4 gauge ports which the fuse box and starter are plugged into.

[DelSolMarine]

ok so the tach and radio will not come on... all fuses are good ????????

[supra-n-civic]

Originally Posted by B16acivicsedan91

It looks to me like the pos and neg on the battery are on backwards in that pic if im not mistaken check that first red should be on positive or +.

hahah good call i see it two. also i think the starter runs a 120 amp fuse dosent it. that could be the issue. but id swap the terminals first and try it hahaha

[RonJ@HT]

Originally Posted by DelSolMarine

ok so the tach and radio will not come on... all fuses are good ????????

What year Civic/DelSol?

The radio is protected by three different fuses, two of which are needed for the radio to work.

The tach signal generally comes from the blue wire attached to the igniter unit/ICM in the distributor. Check that wire.

[The_Honda_Guy]

It's going to pop an 80 amp fuse pretty easily, especially if you're running a 2 gauge power wire that far. The starter will not constantly draw a ton of amperage, but it's not uncommon to see spikes for 100+ amps during the first second of cranking. On my RX-7 when I did a battery relocation I also used 2 gauge wire for the power. I then used a 150 amp circuit breaker in line with the battery main power wire. For the few months I had that setup I only popped the 150 amp circuit breaker once, but that does go to show you can there can be extremely high amperage draws for very short periods of time.

[Nbboy7]

Does the clock light up if not you poped the back up fuse.

[DelSolMarine]

Originally Posted by RonJ@HT

What year Civic/DelSol?

The radio is protected by three different fuses, two of which are needed for the radio to work.

The tach signal generally comes from the blue wire attached to the igniter unit/ICM in the distributor. Check that wire.

its a 94 honda del sol with a pioneer deck and all the fuses are good. where are those fuses you are talking about? all the ones under the hood and under the dash are good.

so a blue wire that is hooked to the distributor or inside the distributor?

[rudebwoy]

the 7.5A next to the ECU fuse, and 10A fuse under the dash, and the 10A fuse on the back of the afermarket radio. the 2 original also control the clock.
did you pull them out, or use a fuse tester to check them?