+honda_monkey+

whats up everyone. im looking to upgrade my brake system on my 95 GS-R. i currently have all stock and my rotors are warped. im looking to get new pads and i would love to have cross drilled slotted rotors. not trying to go ballin with a brake set up but a nice upgrade. to those who upgraded, what did you buy / how much / where did you order/buy from? any help would be awesome. thanks in advance!

racebum

two easy choices exist. first the really easy

buy axxis ultimate or hawk hp+ pads and whatever rotor you want, blanks would be my choice.

second you have the ITR upgrade

for this you need prelude vtec 4x114 rotors which you will redrill to 4x100 and then source 23T calipers from a legend or accord v6. if you need to know years ask for 95 prelude vtec rotors, this isn't an si, they actually call it "vtec" next get 2000 accord v6 calipers. mill 1/8" off the bracket and buy a good pad like the above mentioned. this is a big improvement in braking but does require more money and more work.

p nut

Or go here for the 11" rotors for the ITR calipers.

http://www.fastbrakes.com/category_s/4.htm

And don't waste your money on the drilled/slotted.

keepinitrehaal

I would buy these:

http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/...inch%20kit.htm

+honda_monkey+

why not drilled and slotted?

milkwasabadidea

there is a whole tthread on y not to get drilled and slotted but its alot of reading.. have fun

nice upgrade wud b better brake fluid (motul or that super blue stuff)... better pads ??? ss lines? ?? if not then jus go itr 5 lug..

racebum

fastbrake is seriously expensive. you can create your own ITR upgrade package for under $300

for what they want i would just get the wilwood 12" upgrade with 4 piston calipers.

p nut

The only part I'd get from fastbrakes is the rotor. Prelude rotors are the same price at auto parts stores ($45) and then you have to get them drilled. These come pre-drilled at 4x100 and they're $47.

DC2fab

you could go drilled and slotted or not.. there not completely amazing. i got wilwood 4 pistons calipers and love them. and get better fluid and braided lines forsure

p nut

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...drilled+rotors

Wilwood even says right on their site drilled is only for looks and slotted isn't necessary unless it's on a track-only car.

racebum

agree, this is a good deal and it saves you an hour of labor and having to resharpen a drill bit. drilling a pair of rotors will usually waste the edge on a standard bit.

p nut

Those that have done this, what are you using for a spare? Stock 14" won't fit anymore. Perhaps getting an Accord/Prelude and redrilling to 4x100?

racebum

you can't redrill wheels but you can use about any 15-16" wheel for a spare. buy a cheap $100 rota or a used something or another

p nut

The problem is that they don't sit in the spare tire well. Well, they do, but you can't "close" the cover all the way. There's gotta be an option for this. I'm trying to think of other 4x100 cars that might have a 15" spare. Mini Cooper? Any VW's? I might have to make a call to Discount Tire to see what they have.

And RE: redrilling, yeah, I'm retarded. That would be a custom fab job for a welder to get all of the seating area work done.

TunerN00b

Spare should only be used in the rear of the car. If you get a flat up front, you put the spare on the back and move the back wheel to the front.

But yes, inability to fit the stock spare is one of the many disadvantages of oversized brakes. And since they offer no advantage for 95%+ of the cars, its just one of the additional costs of making a cosmetic modification.

DC40

With an ITR brake upgrade would it be necessary to switch out to an ITR brake master cylinder as well?

mrdeadman

Ceramic pads and OEM rotors stop quicker than my tires can.

mrdeadman

No.

p nut

Ah, forgot about that. Haven't had a flat since 2001. :p This should be a non-issue, then. Thanks.

Correct. My old LS had Autozone blank rotors and Axxis Ult pads and it performed great. I will be doing some HPDE events this summer, which is why I'm upgrading. Anybody in this thread that will never see a track should not waste their money or time upgrading the brake system.

TunerN00b

No issues at all with tracking my heavy GSR (2,815 lbs. w/ driver) with Autozone Duralast blanks, Hawk HP+ pads, and high temp fluid, even on 105* days...

Even people who do see track time should not bother with oversized brakes until they are certain that there is no other solution to brake overheating.

I overheated mine once, and then asked an instructor to show me what I was doing wrong, and haven't overheated them since...

mrdeadman

Adds unsprung weight too...

Were you riding the brakes?

Just curious what you were doing wrong?

nsxtasy

Your rotors are probably not warped. They probably have uneven deposits of brake pad material on their surface. You can avoid this by properly bedding your brakes any time you get new rotors or pads. You can read all about this on the Stoptech website:

The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures

As for rotors, don't waste your money on cross-drilled or slotted. I've tried them all - cross-drilled, slotted, and solid-faced - and there's no difference in performance or in the lifespan of the rotors. They don't hurt, but they don't help either. If your current rotors aren't cracked and have sufficient thickness, there's no need to replace them.

Try getting a good pad (the Hawk HP+ is a good aftermarket street/track pad), bed the brakes when you put them in, make sure you have reasonably fresh brake fluid (change it at least once every two years for a street car, at least once every 6-12 months if you use your car on the racetrack or autocross) and you're good to go.

The most common mistakes by beginners at the track, that result in excessive heat as well as premature wearing of pads and rotors, are (a) applying the brakes over a longer distance, rather than using the brakes hard over a shorter distance, and (b) overbraking, IOW slowing the car down to a slower speed than necessary to get through the turn at the end of the braking zone.

TunerN00b

Pretty much this:
I autocrossed for a year, then had my first track day. While I can brake just fine on the auto-x course, something about the late apex trailbraking into the first turn following a long straight at 130 mph caused me to brake like a n00b. As a result, longer lighter braking over a greater distance combined with overbraking, overheated the brakes in no time on my first session. Had a chat with an instructor who was watching the beginner group, tried to do as he said, gained confidence in the car, and noticed that my brakes lasted through the 45 minute instead of just the first 15 minutes.

If I come into a turn way too hot during auto-x, I spin the car and kill a few cones. No real risk, no issues, no fear. The dirt off track is intimidating, especially when you're tracking the daily driver that you need intact to drive home (no tow vehicle) and no you have no added rollover protection (I need to add a rollbar at some point here if I'm going to continue hitting the track).

p nut

I'm sure you don't have issues. But braking definitely stayed more consistent with my ITR than LS/GSR. Perhaps I've been spoiled.

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

I remember how much I had to poke around to find the info I needed for my LS to ITR upgrade, so here is my summary:

I put on the front: Fastbrakes.com 11.1" rotors, SAE 8 washers, Accord V6 Calipers, Russell SS lines, ITR (axiss ult) pads, on my 2000 LS. I ran like this for 2 ½ years before I bought the ‘cut’ brackets, from fastbrakes.


I also put on the rear: 2003 civic si 10.3" rotors, 2001 Prelude Calipers, Russell SS lines, non-Type S rear brackets, ITR (axiss ult) pads. I had to bleed the calipers off of the rotors, because of the bleeder valve location.

You can use the bracket from the RSX, but not the calipers, because the RSX caliper’s e-brake connector is the wrong style

I did not mess with the master cylinder, nor the prop valve.