sh!ft

i was told you can loop the pressure sensor on the side of the solonoid to always stay on, and you can also rigg a button to turn on and off the solonoid. is this true?

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

why not just let vtec engage normally like it was meant to be...!!!

sh!ft

cause i got codes 1 4 5 and 8

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

fix the codes and then vtec will engage correctly...just because you bypass the problem just remember the problem will still be there...hit up the faq's stickied and try to correct your problem the right way...!!!

DCRB

yeah you can rig up vtec... hit the button, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA bang. **** gets messed up cuz you're running lean. vtec is more than just higher profile cam lobes, it's fuel maps timing adjustments, etc. and if you don't have all that you'll mess stuff up. besides rolling around w your check engine light on just makes you look dumb.

dephtone

you will pop your motor if you bypass it and run vtec on a button. All the codes you are throwing are VERY important for your motor to even operate properly...

Code 1: o2 sensor
Code 4: Crank Position Sensor
Code 5: MAP Sensor
Code 8: TDC Position Sensor

You should probably look into fixing these issues as your car probably runs like absolute crap because all those codes pretty much deal with making the car idle and run properly in general.

TR_Accord

"Cause hooking vtec to a switch is stupid. Why not hook vtec up to a clapper and just slap your self in the face everytime you race."

dephtone

lol. Very nice. That's sig worthy.

sh!ft

im just so tired of throwing money at shops and they never fix the problems

dephtone

So download the Factory Service Manual and look at the troubleshooting section for the CEL codes and fix them yourself. I can't remember the site to download the FSM, hopefully someone will chime in. EDIT: http://www.spoonertuner.com/manuals has all the wiring troubleshooting.

Just download the CRX 1988 ED8 Service Manual, under the PGMFI system there is a place for Check Engine Lights, check the ones you have and get to work.

I almost had to take my EF to a shop after ~5 months of trying to troubleshoot an issue with Code 9 Cyp sensor in the dizzy, the day I was supposed to take it there, I double checked all the steps in the FSM and ended up I missed a wire that was associated with the Crank Position Sensor a wire somehow came off, and made the car throw code 9 instead of code 4 (the code for Crank Position Sensor)

Code 1 is an o2, is it hooked up?

Code 4 and 8 are directly related to each other, they are both sensors in the dizzy, either that or the wiring is hacked up. Try and borrow a different dizzy for your motor and see if that clears it up. As I said, I would get the manual and go through the steps.

Code 5 swap out the MAP sensor or make sure the vaccum line is hooked up to a vac source on the mani, thats pretty much the only things that can be wrong with that, again unless it's a wiring issue.



Why are you paying the shops if they don't fix the issue? Hopefully you didn't pay the full amount since the issues are not fixed with the car. I would take it back to them if they said everything was working properly.

If you don't fix the problems and you run a switch for vtec, you will be paying a shop for a new motor/rebuild. VTEC checks to make sure there is proper oil pressure as well as certain speed, engine temp, oil level, no codes being thrown for fuel or timing etc. There are a bunch of factors that the ECU takes into factor before VTEC is engaged.

Mooch

WTF son!? Why in the hell would you pay a shop to work on your piece anyways? I wouldn't trust a shop with ****, no matter how haggard. Do research, read the books, do it yourself. Then you won't be throwing money anywhere.

BiG ChOr!Zo

iTrader: (1)

^^some people are just not tech savy even with a manual or by reading online...example: you wouldn't want a friend to remove your appendix just by ready a doctor book would you...!!!

dephtone

Yeah but he is saying that he paid shops to do it and they couldn't fix it, if you want something done right, do it yourself clause has always worked for me, especially if he took it several different shops and they haven't been able to fix it.

It was just an option that I was throwing out there. Plus it will help him learn other than trying to blow up his motor by running VTEC on a switch and having to pay someone for a motor rebuild or for another motor in general.

The manuals are very easy to follow and should give him an idea if the wires are bad or a piece of equipment that can just be replaced and not having to jack the car up even more than it already seems.

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

if your harness is cut and spliced and no longer recognizable and that is what is giving you a headache, than start with a fresh one and modify it correctly to what you need.

what engine? what ecu? what model civic or crx?

sbarmann

Depends on the friend...

sh!ft

94 civic ex D16Z6
p28 ecu(stock as far as i know)
1990 honda civic dx from CANADA HONDA MFG. CO.

low91rex

Great info dude. I had the same dizzy issues car ran shiiiitty. Turned out someone super h4xored my harness. It just took a little time looking at schematics and following wires and I was able to sort out all the wires in the right places. Since the cars swapped chances are some one fvcked w/ the harness.

Good luck dood

TR_Accord

hah i stole it from someone elses sig. I laughed my *** off first time I read it haha