macbasq

I gave my 1991 DX to my sister when I got a new car and she overheated it and cooked all kinds of components. She brought it to a shop which replaced a number of parts and got it running again.

Unfortunately after she got it back it started with another problem. After short driving (usually around 3 miles at 45 mph) the engine stalls out. The CEL lights and the ECU flashes code 15 (Ignition output signal). It is a repeatable problem. Needless to say, she's pissed about how much money she's had to dump into the car, doesn't want to take it back to the shop and is returning it to me.

My guess is that it's a problem with ICM/igniter because of the code. I'm not sure because it could be a temperature dependent connection issue. Any ideas on that? It runs just fine from startup and after stalling waiting a minute or so it fires back up (but will stall again a few miles down the road).

A new ICM runs about $60-65 so it's a relatively cheap fix if that's all that's wrong. I can't find in my service manual the procedure to replace it, anyone know?



OT: When did HT change forum software? Looks good!

crx_si-r

sounds like either the coil or iginitor is going bad once its warmed up. you can swap those out from any 88-91 civic/crx and 90-91 teg.

macbasq

Thanks for your input? Any specific procedure or things to do when replacing the part?

88DXCRX

By crx at 2005-02-16



Pull off the cap,and remove the plastic shield under the rotor..

Remove the two bolts shown in second pic and unplug all the wires..
Remove igniter and heat shield as an assembly..

You can do it with the distributor still in the car,
but it might be easier if you remove it..

macbasq

Thanks a bunch!

jbrokos307

i think i was having the same problem with my car but now i replaced the whole dizzy same model but its a dohc zc and it still wont spark what could it be its killing me

macbasq

Update:

I just replaced the old ICM with the new one (BWD part# CBE550Z) and started it up. No plates on it so I can't do a true road test but I drove up and down my driveway for about 20 minutes and it didn't shut off on me. Hopefully that will take care of it.

One caveat I will mention to anyone else that is replacing this part is that it's not the easiest thing to reassemble if you don't remove the dizzy. I used a small screwdriver to line up the holes but it took a few tries to get my bolt threaded in. So if you're going to have your distributor out of the car, it'll make it go much easier.

Now on to other problems, like a surging idle!

beana

i was having the same problem with my beater, same code and everything, i changed the ignitor yesterday, and it's been fine ever since

Carlo1991

This is a PDF file for removal and installing everything related to the distributor.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ca...tion_tests.pdf

Former User

Old thread closed.