94EG8

Both detent bolts are the same. As a matter of fact even the D-series ones are the same. You forgot a crush washer under one of them which is why the detent ball mushroomed the detent bolt.

Replace the damaged bolt and use new crush washers under both of them.

7rrivera7

iTrader: (1)

Just rebuilt my YS1 tranny using this DIY and I would have never even attempted it without this EXCELLENT write up. Honda Bull even responded to my PMs - stand up guy!

Thanks HB and HT!

Dipesh

An amazing thread. So useful.

chabit15

This tutorial will help people for the rest of time thankyou so much publisher!

SANTA(•_•)ANA

This looks great

95B18BTurbo

This was so damn helpful this weekend it's not even funny! Transmission came out great as I installed a JDM ITR 4.785 final and 1st gear, JDM ITR LSD, reused my GSR 2nd/3rd/4th, and put in a LS 5th. Huge thanks to the OP!

1jdmfan

just had to stop by and say WOW! awsome job, very discriptive great pics, soo thank you sirr

tenedor sports

iTrader: (1)

THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME SIR! :HUG:

jsnyds530

great write up this is what made me decide to rebuild my tranny myself will let everyone know how it goes when finished

Codeblue00

Great teardown/rebuild guide, looking forward to posting my own that has a few more pictures as well as a complete motor pull guide for b series

civicekhx

hi, i just bought a b16 transmission from a friend. he said when he had the transmission, he changed out the 3rd and 4th fork and sleeve. when he put it back together he said the input shaft was really hard to turn. after he installed it in his car, and this drove it, it got stuck in fourth gear. So he purchased another transmssion. I just bought his transmission and took it a part. i installed a ls fifth gear set. while putting it back together. i cant seem to get the clip to lock into the counter shaft bearing groove. and when i tighten down transmission bolts all the way, the input shaft would not spin. but when i back out the bolts a little bit and pull the case up, it would spin. can someone help me out please. i need to get my car running asap.

sh!ft

^^^^^^^


take the transmission and place it in front of you, with the clutch release fork positioned or pointed to the 3 o'clock position...meaning if you saw the fork sticking out of the transmission while it was laying on the ground, it would be pointing to your right if you had it in front of you.

once you do that, remove the top part of the casing to reveal the gears again. once you do that, you should see the main shaft with the washer(under the bearing on the top of the main shaft) that has the piece of metal pointing down. what you need to do is point that piece of metal to the 12 oclock position(as noted in the pics)



once you get to that point, apply your honda bond or ultrablack rtv and apply the upper casing back onto the transmission. be sure to check the inside of the upper half to see where the washer sits and where the bearing sits. then once you think you got the casing set on the washer and bearing, you must somewhat lightly wiggle the upper half of the casing from side to side in oeder to get the transmission to seal most of the way.


once you got that far, or get i should say, you will end up at this next issue: putting the c clip back on....this can be some what tricky if you are not aware of how to do this.


once you got the casing onto the transmission, in order to get to seat fully, you must take a phillips head screw driver and stick it into the selector shaft that attaches to the shift linkage. insert it and then pretend that you are trying to put the transmission into 1st gear, which would be pulling up and pulling out if the transmission is still on the ground. then the case will drop to the c-clip




on order to get the c clip on the bearing, you simply take a pair of needle nose pliers and spread the c clip apart far out enough to where it touches both sides of where it came out from in the housing, then with a hammer or a friend handy, simultaneously and LIGHTLY tap the top of the casing with a hammer or a wrench and the casing should shut.

add 4 bolts in every corner, tighten and it should shut while in 1st gear. and you should still able to spin it. then you take the transmission turn it upside down till you hear the c clip click in place or lightly tap it on the ground, flip it back up and the visually inspect it to see if the clip set in place. if it did, the pop the selector shaft back into neutral then put the rest of the detent ball bearings back in, the 14mm reverse bolt and the remaining other 12mm bolts and spin the shaft over by hand. thus you have a sealed and ready to go tranny.

0parts@synchrotech

Very interesting cloud diagrams LOL JK!!

civicekhx

thanks a lot i will try it this weekend.

civicekhx

so is the problem that im having is that the c clip not locking into place with the bearing thats why the input shaft is not turning?

sh!ft

precisely.


the gears are not lined up thus it is binding up.

civicekhx

well i tried putting the transmission back together again today and i still have the same problem. i live in portland oregon is there anyone that can help me here.

NIcad7

Just been through the whole thread to make sure I'm not going to post a problem already covered.

Used this thread to help me swap my transmission casing on a S80 gearbox with a KAAZ LSD & FD.

All went well thanks to the awesome how to on page 1, eventually managed to persuade the C clip to snap into place onto the shaft.

Once Ive done this there is roughly 1-2mm gap left to close up the case half. So I tighten the 4 bolts down that were previously only hand tight. All goes fine except now I can not turn the input shaft at all.

Still shifts through all gears fine.

I did read about needed to re-shim the input shaft when swapping cases or gear sets though? I'm hoping this is my problem, as I didn't take any of the gears apart just swapped everything across to a new casing.

Does anyone have any info on how to correctly shim the input shaft? I'm guessing I would need a slightly thinner shim to stop everything locking up?

Thanks in advance for anyones help!

NIcad7

Just to update the above, I just threw everything back together but omitted the input shaft shim, so just had the conical washer on the end of the shaft.

Everything went back together perfectly, the case close right up after seating the C clip and the shaft turns freely in all gears.

However, and I was expecting this, there is now in/out play on the input shaft. Roughly 0.5mm-1mm of in/out movement.

What is acceptable or does it need to have zero play? At least this way I can work out what shim I would need to stop the movement.

hondacurious

I honestly don't remember what the allowable play is according to the service manual. I want to say .1 to .2 mm. I ran into the same problem when I put my LSD in. If you go on majestic or any other honda parts websites and look at b series transmissions. You will see there are different part numbers for different size shims. The service manual says not to stack two shims but to only use one. Plus I wouldn't recommend grinding the one you have. Mostly because of sharp edges on a rotating assembly. But you answered your question on which shim you need. You assembled it and measured .5 to 1mm gap. So you should buy a couple of shims around that thickness. When I assembled mine I left the play around the high side cause I believe it would be less friction and stress on the bearings. Hope this helps.

hondacurious

Ok just looked it up in the service manual. Standard gap is .15 mm or .006 in

stenseltizm

download a manual from hondahookup and I'm sure they explain how to shim the main shaft.
mine is on my laptop at home or I'd post the pages. I just followed it to measure my diff shims, waiting on my new shims from Honda now.

MrSmiles

This was really helpful may save some from expensive tranny replacements ..

ferio-ichi3

Hey, i used this tutorial to take my trans apart and it was extrememly helpful, but i have my own thread and im talking about how the fork shafts move around. Heres a video:
No good fork: plesse watch and tell me that 3/4 gear fork shaft and 5/r gear shaft have excessive play compared to 1/2 fork.

1HGEJ2

iTrader: (1)

this fork works only with the housing. look at ur housing and u can see the holes for the forks