DIY: EG Cluster and Dash Lighting Modifications
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DIY: EG Cluster and Dash Lighting Modifications
I did this write-up because I couldn't find half of this info anywhere. So, here you go.
Cluster LEDs:
Let’s start with the easiest modification, replacing your cluster’s stock bulbs with bright LEDs, of any color, to give your Civic a new look.
You’ll need 6 LEDs. I went with T1.5 #74 LEDs installed in a twist lock socket base from superbrightleds.com. You will need to reuse one of the stock bulb’s sockets. (more about that later)
1.
Remove the cluster.
(Quick summary: pop out hazard switch and unplug, unscrew screw behind hazard switch and the 2 screws in the bezel above the cluster, pull out bezel and unplug clock, unscrew the 4 screws holding the cluster in, and plug the cluster and remove.)
2.
Viewing the back of the cluster:
Remove the bulbs circled in red. Remove the bulb circled in yellow and red and set it aside for now.
3.
You can install your new LEDs in the red circled locations now.
4.
The location circled in yellow and red is smaller than the rest. For this reason, you’ll need to reuse the stock bulb socket that you set aside previously. Pull the stock bulb out of its socket. Do the same with an LED. Now push the LED into the stock socket and install the LED.
Here are the stock bulbs and sockets. The one on the Left is the small one.
Here is the LED and socket. And second image is the LED removed from the socket.
5.
Now, these LEDs are polarized, meaning they only work in one direction. So, test that they are working. To test, plug the cluster back in, turn on the lights. If an LED isn’t lit, remove it, turn it 180 degrees and reinsert.
Done!
Dash Switches and Climate Control LEDs:
Now that your cluster is looking like a new Audi, your dash switches and Climate Controls are now looking faded and old. Let’s change that!
All the switches use 3mm Neo-Wedges. There are 6 total. The Climate control uses #74 LEDs.
Start with the switches:
1.
Remove the switch that you intend to replace the bulb with.
There are 4 tabs that hold each switch in the housing. (2 are circled in green). Push in the tabs and pull out the switch.
2.
Then you have an option.
a.
You can try to get out the bulbs (circled in red) as they are [then, skip to step 3]
OR
b.
you can go further and open up the switch to easily remove the bulbs.
i.
To open the switch up, start by removing the back. There are 4 tabs (2 are circled in yellow) holding the back on.
ii.
Then remove the face of the switch. There are again 4 tabs holding the face on (circled in green).
iii.
Now, the internals will slide out and you will be able to easily remove the bulbs.
Here's a video showing the same thing:
3.
You will be using 6 Neo-Wedge LEDs sized 3mm. They will not fit into the socket without altering the lock tabs slightly.
(Stock bulb on Right, LED on Left)
Use a razor blade to cut off 3 spots on the LED’s lock tabs.
In this diagram, not the stock tab on the left and the LED’s tab on the right. Carefully, remove the blue sections with the razor blade.
They should look like this now.
4.
Remember now, that these LEDs are polarized, meaning they only work one way. So, before you assemble the switches back together, test that the LEDs are installed correctly.
5.
For the Climate Control LEDs, reference Addiction2Bass’s DIY to disassemble the unit. http://www.hondacivicforum.com...58988
Once you get to the stock bulbs, simply remove them and replace with the #74 LEDs.
Done!!
Here's a look at the final product:
I used Bright White for the cluster, climate controls, and switch function images. I used green and amber for the switch indicator lights.
Obviously, you can do the whole amber thing, or whatever color(s) you want!
Cluster LEDs:
Let’s start with the easiest modification, replacing your cluster’s stock bulbs with bright LEDs, of any color, to give your Civic a new look.
You’ll need 6 LEDs. I went with T1.5 #74 LEDs installed in a twist lock socket base from superbrightleds.com. You will need to reuse one of the stock bulb’s sockets. (more about that later)
1.
Remove the cluster.
(Quick summary: pop out hazard switch and unplug, unscrew screw behind hazard switch and the 2 screws in the bezel above the cluster, pull out bezel and unplug clock, unscrew the 4 screws holding the cluster in, and plug the cluster and remove.)
2.
Viewing the back of the cluster:
Remove the bulbs circled in red. Remove the bulb circled in yellow and red and set it aside for now.
3.
You can install your new LEDs in the red circled locations now.
4.
The location circled in yellow and red is smaller than the rest. For this reason, you’ll need to reuse the stock bulb socket that you set aside previously. Pull the stock bulb out of its socket. Do the same with an LED. Now push the LED into the stock socket and install the LED.
Here are the stock bulbs and sockets. The one on the Left is the small one.
Here is the LED and socket. And second image is the LED removed from the socket.
5.
Now, these LEDs are polarized, meaning they only work in one direction. So, test that they are working. To test, plug the cluster back in, turn on the lights. If an LED isn’t lit, remove it, turn it 180 degrees and reinsert.
Done!
Dash Switches and Climate Control LEDs:
Now that your cluster is looking like a new Audi, your dash switches and Climate Controls are now looking faded and old. Let’s change that!
All the switches use 3mm Neo-Wedges. There are 6 total. The Climate control uses #74 LEDs.
Start with the switches:
1.
Remove the switch that you intend to replace the bulb with.
There are 4 tabs that hold each switch in the housing. (2 are circled in green). Push in the tabs and pull out the switch.
2.
Then you have an option.
a.
You can try to get out the bulbs (circled in red) as they are [then, skip to step 3]
OR
b.
you can go further and open up the switch to easily remove the bulbs.
i.
To open the switch up, start by removing the back. There are 4 tabs (2 are circled in yellow) holding the back on.
ii.
Then remove the face of the switch. There are again 4 tabs holding the face on (circled in green).
iii.
Now, the internals will slide out and you will be able to easily remove the bulbs.
Here's a video showing the same thing:
3.
You will be using 6 Neo-Wedge LEDs sized 3mm. They will not fit into the socket without altering the lock tabs slightly.
(Stock bulb on Right, LED on Left)
Use a razor blade to cut off 3 spots on the LED’s lock tabs.
In this diagram, not the stock tab on the left and the LED’s tab on the right. Carefully, remove the blue sections with the razor blade.
They should look like this now.
4.
Remember now, that these LEDs are polarized, meaning they only work one way. So, before you assemble the switches back together, test that the LEDs are installed correctly.
5.
For the Climate Control LEDs, reference Addiction2Bass’s DIY to disassemble the unit. http://www.hondacivicforum.com...58988
Once you get to the stock bulbs, simply remove them and replace with the #74 LEDs.
Done!!
Here's a look at the final product:
I used Bright White for the cluster, climate controls, and switch function images. I used green and amber for the switch indicator lights.
Obviously, you can do the whole amber thing, or whatever color(s) you want!
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#8
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Re: (k0rupt_ed)
I actually get all mine from SuperbrightLEDs.com
If they are flickering make sure that you:
-have them installed properly
-that you didn't flatten any of the twist socket metal tabs.
They need to be bend upwards a little to touch the circuit board
-that your cluster's circuit board isn't worn where the LED is installed.
If they are flickering make sure that you:
-have them installed properly
-that you didn't flatten any of the twist socket metal tabs.
They need to be bend upwards a little to touch the circuit board
-that your cluster's circuit board isn't worn where the LED is installed.
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Re: (danomatic93)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danomatic93 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I actually get all mine from SuperbrightLEDs.com
If they are flickering make sure that you:
-have them installed properly
-that you didn't flatten any of the twist socket metal tabs.
They need to be bend upwards a little to touch the circuit board
-that your cluster's circuit board isn't worn where the LED is installed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive had them in for 6 months, its not install error
If they are flickering make sure that you:
-have them installed properly
-that you didn't flatten any of the twist socket metal tabs.
They need to be bend upwards a little to touch the circuit board
-that your cluster's circuit board isn't worn where the LED is installed.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive had them in for 6 months, its not install error
#12
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Re: (turboteg90)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteg90 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did this to my cluster a couple of months ago,i did mine amber</TD></TR></TABLE>
PICTURES PLEASE!!
PICTURES PLEASE!!
#13
Re: (bpkmrtoes)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpkmrtoes »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PICTURES PLEASE!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
im sorry i did no take any pics..i sold that cluster when i got my jdm one
PICTURES PLEASE!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
im sorry i did no take any pics..i sold that cluster when i got my jdm one
#14
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Re: (k0rupt_ed)
I did my cluster's LEDs well over a year ago. Not a single one flickers. The flickering indicates an improper connection. If you think otherwise, contact superbrightleds as they are very helpful.
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Re: (EK_kidd)
The cluster having 6 T1.5 Instrument LEDs came to 11 bucks.
The switches and CC having 6 3mm Neo-Wedge LEDs came to 12 bucks.
Doing everything then was 23 bucks.
The switches and CC having 6 3mm Neo-Wedge LEDs came to 12 bucks.
Doing everything then was 23 bucks.
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Re: DIY: EG Cluster and Dash Lighting Modifications (mcvtec)
ah. looks goood! i hate the orange lights in it right now, soo dim cant really see anything.... doing this 4 sure!
ty
ty
#21
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Re: (Memnoch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Memnoch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Awesome, looks like trash because the LEDS create hot spot areas. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock lights create hot spots too!
And are these LEDs able to dim?
Edit : I just took off my cluster today and noticed that the bulbs in there are not clear. I think they have some sort of blue cover or something on them? Are stock bulbs supposed to be completely clear?
Modified by sageuvagony at 5:43 PM 10/5/2008
Stock lights create hot spots too!
And are these LEDs able to dim?
Edit : I just took off my cluster today and noticed that the bulbs in there are not clear. I think they have some sort of blue cover or something on them? Are stock bulbs supposed to be completely clear?
Modified by sageuvagony at 5:43 PM 10/5/2008
#22
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Re: (sageuvagony)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sageuvagony »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Stock lights create hot spots too!
And are these LEDs able to dim?
Edit : I just took off my cluster today and noticed that the bulbs in there are not clear. I think they have some sort of blue cover or something on them? Are stock bulbs supposed to be completely clear?
Modified by sageuvagony at 5:43 PM 10/5/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
no all the stock bulbs have that blue cover on them.
and yes the l.e.d.s are able to dim. they just dont dim all the way out like stock bulbs do.
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Re: (fryguy190)
Great write up man.
It appears that on your cluster, the LED didn't illuminate the whole cluster?
Another question, do you need to buy aftermarket base for it? Or can you just buy #74 LED and put that in your OEM base?
Modified by VN712 at 7:19 AM 10/6/2008
It appears that on your cluster, the LED didn't illuminate the whole cluster?
Another question, do you need to buy aftermarket base for it? Or can you just buy #74 LED and put that in your OEM base?
Modified by VN712 at 7:19 AM 10/6/2008
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Mmm, I might do this in red.
Which bulbs do I get?
http://superbrightleds.com/instrument.html
And how many? If I'm doing only the cluster.
Modified by HeirApparent at 9:31 AM 10/6/2008
Which bulbs do I get?
http://superbrightleds.com/instrument.html
And how many? If I'm doing only the cluster.
Modified by HeirApparent at 9:31 AM 10/6/2008
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Re: (HeirApparent)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HeirApparent »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mmm, I might do this in red.
Which bulbs do I get?
http://superbrightleds.com/instrument.html
And how many? If I'm doing only the cluster.
Modified by HeirApparent at 9:31 AM 10/6/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will want 6 of the Red T1.5-R
(T1.5-x Instrument LED bulb
1-LED Instrument Cluster and Gauge illumination bulb. #74 LED bulb installed in twist lock socket base )
Which bulbs do I get?
http://superbrightleds.com/instrument.html
And how many? If I'm doing only the cluster.
Modified by HeirApparent at 9:31 AM 10/6/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>
You will want 6 of the Red T1.5-R
(T1.5-x Instrument LED bulb
1-LED Instrument Cluster and Gauge illumination bulb. #74 LED bulb installed in twist lock socket base )