How to fix rear window washer
07-21-2002, 09:44 AM
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How to fix a blocked rear window washer
This is a follow up on my previous post Blocked - rear window washer - HELP!
First try to unblock the nozzle with a fine wire or a thin paper clip. If that fails – then you may have to get at it from the inside by removing the back part of the headliner. DO NOT BLOW air into the nozzle – it will blow off the connecting tube from a check valve connector inside the headliner - you will be pumping washer fluid inside the headliner.
Tools needed:
1. Putty knife - 2 inch wide. Cover up the metal including the flat tip with masking tape. This will prevent black marks from the metal.
2. A dime.
3. 18mm socket wrench.
4. Phillips head screw driver - large.
You may not need the wrench and the screwdriver – but have them handy anyway.
5. A source of compressed air - such as the dust off aerosol can used for cleaning camera gear or computer keyboard. I used my pump garden sprayer. Note shop air pressure is high – use a pressure reducer to be safe.
Be patient and do not use force – this job only requires deft touch and attention to detail. WARNING the headliner is easily damaged be very careful. It is preferable to do the work when the inside of the car is hot/warm. The plastic parts are more pliable and less prone to damage. Before starting study carefully how the headliner and the plastic window trims around the triangular windows are attached.
Open the hatch.
Turn the moon-roof plastic socket plug quarter turn to free the headliner you may need to use the dime to turn it.
Slide the putty knife between the headliner and the rear-trim that holds it in place. Run it along side to side to free it. Then with the putty knife still in place carefully push the trim back towards the hatch – it will slide out easily. Watch carefully how the trim was installed under the hatch gasket as you push it out. You will have to reverse the process!! The headliner will hang down just enough to get your hand inside. If you need more room then you may need to loosen the window trims. Loosen only as many clips as you need. There are three clips on each side at the top of the window trim. Carefully slide the putty knife between the headliner and the trim and pop the clip you may have to use your finger also. Start with the ones at each the back corner. If you need more room you may need to take off the coat hanger and the upper seat belt mounts. This where you will need the Phillips head screwdriver and the socket wrench.
Now look inside you will see the plumbing to the nozzle. Place an absorbent rag on the headliner and carefully pull off the tube from the check valve connector. In case you end up pulling off the connector look at it carefully it has an arrow showing the flow direction. The arrow should be pointing towards the direction of flow.
The blockage can be either at the check valve or at the nozzle. Insert the check valve end of the tube into an empty bottle and turn on the rear window washer. If the fluid is not flowing the check valve is blocked or the tube is blocked (a very rare possibility). Carefully pull off the check valve and turn on the rear washer there should be fluid inside the bottle. Clean the check valve under running water and blowing into it. Install the check valve with the arrow pointing in the direction of flow. Reconnect the nozzle tube - check for spray operation.
If the nozzle is blocked blow back the dirt by blowing compressed air from the nozzle spray tip from outside. If you are using a garden sprayer (like I did) you can also pump water back through the nozzle. Reconnect the tube and check for spray. It should work.
Double-check the tube connections before closing up.
Install the rear headliner trim first. Hold the headliner to the metal roof and slide the trim forward over the headliner and on to the metal edge. Using the putty knife ease the trim under the hatch gasket. Push the trim in place with your fingers. If you took off the window trim panel clips – ease the edge of the panels under the gaskets and window moldings with the putty knife as you push/snap the clips back in place.
Now go get yourself a drink!! You deserve it. A dealer would have charged you about $120.00 for the job.
Thanks to Rainmaker for the inital brief description.
[Modified by vimsen, 6:47 PM 7/21/2002]
First try to unblock the nozzle with a fine wire or a thin paper clip. If that fails – then you may have to get at it from the inside by removing the back part of the headliner. DO NOT BLOW air into the nozzle – it will blow off the connecting tube from a check valve connector inside the headliner - you will be pumping washer fluid inside the headliner.
Tools needed:
1. Putty knife - 2 inch wide. Cover up the metal including the flat tip with masking tape. This will prevent black marks from the metal.
2. A dime.
3. 18mm socket wrench.
4. Phillips head screw driver - large.
You may not need the wrench and the screwdriver – but have them handy anyway.
5. A source of compressed air - such as the dust off aerosol can used for cleaning camera gear or computer keyboard. I used my pump garden sprayer. Note shop air pressure is high – use a pressure reducer to be safe.
Be patient and do not use force – this job only requires deft touch and attention to detail. WARNING the headliner is easily damaged be very careful. It is preferable to do the work when the inside of the car is hot/warm. The plastic parts are more pliable and less prone to damage. Before starting study carefully how the headliner and the plastic window trims around the triangular windows are attached.
Open the hatch.
Turn the moon-roof plastic socket plug quarter turn to free the headliner you may need to use the dime to turn it.
Slide the putty knife between the headliner and the rear-trim that holds it in place. Run it along side to side to free it. Then with the putty knife still in place carefully push the trim back towards the hatch – it will slide out easily. Watch carefully how the trim was installed under the hatch gasket as you push it out. You will have to reverse the process!! The headliner will hang down just enough to get your hand inside. If you need more room then you may need to loosen the window trims. Loosen only as many clips as you need. There are three clips on each side at the top of the window trim. Carefully slide the putty knife between the headliner and the trim and pop the clip you may have to use your finger also. Start with the ones at each the back corner. If you need more room you may need to take off the coat hanger and the upper seat belt mounts. This where you will need the Phillips head screwdriver and the socket wrench.
Now look inside you will see the plumbing to the nozzle. Place an absorbent rag on the headliner and carefully pull off the tube from the check valve connector. In case you end up pulling off the connector look at it carefully it has an arrow showing the flow direction. The arrow should be pointing towards the direction of flow.
The blockage can be either at the check valve or at the nozzle. Insert the check valve end of the tube into an empty bottle and turn on the rear window washer. If the fluid is not flowing the check valve is blocked or the tube is blocked (a very rare possibility). Carefully pull off the check valve and turn on the rear washer there should be fluid inside the bottle. Clean the check valve under running water and blowing into it. Install the check valve with the arrow pointing in the direction of flow. Reconnect the nozzle tube - check for spray operation.
If the nozzle is blocked blow back the dirt by blowing compressed air from the nozzle spray tip from outside. If you are using a garden sprayer (like I did) you can also pump water back through the nozzle. Reconnect the tube and check for spray. It should work.
Double-check the tube connections before closing up.
Install the rear headliner trim first. Hold the headliner to the metal roof and slide the trim forward over the headliner and on to the metal edge. Using the putty knife ease the trim under the hatch gasket. Push the trim in place with your fingers. If you took off the window trim panel clips – ease the edge of the panels under the gaskets and window moldings with the putty knife as you push/snap the clips back in place.
Now go get yourself a drink!! You deserve it. A dealer would have charged you about $120.00 for the job.
Thanks to Rainmaker for the inital brief description.
[Modified by vimsen, 6:47 PM 7/21/2002]
07-22-2002, 06:11 AM
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Re: How to fix a blocked rear window washer (vimsen)
If any of you guys have played GT3 lately get the Spoon S2K and notice how it has a light on the top of the car, right around here our rear washer sprayer would be. Try converting that washer into a light. 
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