Sagara09

iTrader: (1)

I took the car out today and decided to drive it a little "rougher" than usual. I noticed that if I am in high RPMS, that when I change gears, the car "bogs" so to speak. It hesitates for about a second and then the RPM's begin to rise again with the pedal down as far as it will go. I had replaced the fuel pump with a Walboro 190lph fuel pump. The car cranked up right way once the pump was installed. After my driving, I also noticed that the engine has a little harder time starting than usual. It turns over a few more times before it actually fires up.

I was pretty sure that a 190lph fuel pump would work well to replace my old CX fuel pump. Would a faulty relay cause these issues or did would it involve the pump itself? The car will run fine when just cruising and no "heavy" acceleration and gear changing is taking place.

Thank you for reading my mini novel, so to speak. Any help would be appreciated.

Sagara09

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

DelSol-B18

iTrader: (4)

Headgasket? Any white smoke? Clogged injectors

RT_NEWYORK

when the last time you had a tune up?

Sagara09

iTrader: (1)

I have replaced the plug wires, spark plugs, oil,oil filter, and fuel pump. I have ordered a B&M fuel pressure gauge and regulator to see what I am getting and adjust it accordingly. I will be replacing the fuel filter soon as well.

The car is not putting out any white smoke. Compression is 180psi in all 4 cylinders.

jbpnoman

Considering the stock fuel pump is rated 170 LPH, switching to a 190 LPH might be giving it too much fuel, causing your problems. Definitely check your fuel pressure, and make sure you aren't overloading the system.

Sagara09

iTrader: (1)

I am getting 39PSI leaving the fuel filter. I know the manual calls for 40-47psi. I may try having the car tuned and see what happens.

peterJDM

If you're going to tune it, you might as well throw on some headers and intake minafold/throttle body. I know when my car was untuned, B18CR with 70mm manifold 70mm throttle body & RMF headers, it had trouble starting and idling at cold, even at warm. Now about bogging at high RPMs you MAY be misfiring, have you checked for loose spark plugs or spark plug wires? How is your distributor?

Mr. EG

The fuel pump will not cause it to pump "more" fuel to the injectors, but instead keep up. Changing the pump should not have caused this. Fuel pressure should be 40+ PSI at the filter with a B series (ITR calls for a bit more). Check your Plug gap.

BTW Honda i-4's have a HEADER, not headers.

beecee18

Exactly first thing popped in my mind although I was under the notion that it came with 135LPH

beecee18

This is wrong, go find the truth and edit this miss-info

jbpnoman

Oh really? Go ahead and slap a Aeromotive A1000 in your car without a retune, and tell me how it works out for you.

beecee18

Right!
Or even a 255lph on a bone stock integ or civic.
watch afr values and afr fluctuations w/wideband
they will differ for sure as more pressure/quanity of fuel is backed up during deadtime waiting for the pulse.

I can garuantee that the one with the 255 will not pass smog inspection, and will run a tad on the fat side.
Not saying its gonna be much, but the statement is still false.
Congrats being your 1000th post too, on another note you are right about where the fuel pressure should be.

Libertariat

Have you checked the voltage on your TPS?

ej1ryder

op i hope you have more common sense than this: but your high rpm "bog" after shifting sounds like a slipping clutch as stupid as it sounds. as far as your starting issues go: go ahead and replace the fuel filter as well and re check pressure after since it was weak when you last checked, if it checks out then move onto the adjustable fpr and pressure gauge and adjust it accordingly as you planned. Also i dont think a 20 liter per hour increase from the fuel pump would be an issue, especially with a b16 in place of the anemic cx motor.

bisscrac

iTrader: (1)

i didnt see cap and rotor on his lit of "tune ups" alot of times thats over looked

Libertariat

Really the fuel pump shouldn't be causing an issue, at least not you're basic fuel pump upgrade. The engine is only going to get the fuel it calls for electronically, not the LPH the fuel pump is measured as being capable of pumping.

beecee18

Let the wideband be the judge of that,
As I have data to prove this!
That is if untuned of course.

Sagara09

iTrader: (1)

I figured out what it was. I need to replace the cap and rotor. ECU is throwing Code 8 for the TDC sensor fault. Vtec no longer engages and the car is running in "limp" mode. I had not noticed the CEL till the next day. I was more focused on the issue at that time.

What should my fuel pressure be AT the rail when the car is shut off?

jbpnoman

According to the service manual, 40-47PSI as (properly) measured from the fuel filter.

furious94ls

Are you running the correct ECU for the motor or is it "chipped" also, why isn't the car tuned?

Sagara09

iTrader: (1)

USDM P30 with Hondata S300 with B16 Basemap.

Robin6

you need a tune

Sagara09

iTrader: (1)

Need a new distributor first. There isn't much done to the engine to call for a tune.

Libertariat

Running a basemap is every reason to call for a tune.