mbennett

Hello All. New guy here. New to Honda as well. My crewcab chevy is kicking my butt in GAS. Just picked up a clean 99 Accord EX Coupe 3.0 V6. 110K Miles. Check Engine light is on with code P0401 (EGR Flow insufficient). EGR Valve has already been replaced day I picked up the car. Also cleaned out the ports where the EGR attaches. Anyway, did some research on the code and found that it is a common problem and even found out about TSB 99-085. Confirmed with Honda that my car has had the procedure. Also found that its not uncommon for it to clog again even after the drill out and tube insert.

Well anyway, came home tonight and decided to have a look for myself. Followed the instructions on the TSB and removed the upper intake manifold.

Clogged does not even begin to describe the EGR port in the upper intake. Man what a mess. NO FLOW at all (for a long time). Just a little bit of clog on the lower intake at the port on the bottom side.

Just want to make sure I understand a few things and then ask a few questions.

Looking for confirmation on my findings: EGR Valve is bolted to Thermostat housing. Round hole closest to engine block. Rectangle hole to the right of that. Raw exhaust gas flows from head into the housing and into the EGR Valve. Computer causes it to open/close. Raw Exhaust gas goes into EGR Round hole and exits rectangle hole. Rectangle hole has a separate path back into the corner of the head and then into a tube that is part of the lower intake manifold. This tube matches up to the tube (now drilled and sleeved as part of the TSB) in the upper manifold and allows Exhaust gas to enter the intake stream and get recycled back into the engine for emission control. blah blah blah.

The tube passage (rectangle hole) from EGR mounting point up through lower intake is dirty and kind of gummed up at the top. What is the best way to clean this path?

Upper intake EGR path is completely clogged. Intake is kind of dirty as well. Looks like oil from the PVC valve. Not horrible but I thought I might clean it all while I get the EGR tube cleared out.

Is it safe to get the upper intake HOT TANKED at an engine shop. How else should I Clean it. Just a good long soke in some degreaser and a pressure washer?

Thanks in advance for any help and advise. I hope to have a lot more posts as I learn this car and get my hands dirty. Anything has got to be better than 13MPG in my big truck.................

Micah Bennett
Murfreesboro TN

Mystral Hawk

I dunno, I would assume since Honda did the EGR valve bulletin and it clogged again, you should bring it in and tell them that even after the recall, the valve is still clogging and ask them to fix it. If you dont want to go this route, I'm not quite sure how else to fix it...maybe some seafoam?

Wesyder

when we clean those ports there is a stainless sleve that goes in so the whole has to be opened a little, there is a special drill bit that we have for this so when we drill the carbon is removed as well so pretty much any way you can get the passage clear is ok, hot tank may be extreme but should work awesome... good luck

BlkPrl2000EX

I have the same problem with my 2000 EX V6. Check engine light came on; read the P0401 code; replaced the EGR valve; and code came back. That's when I did some more research on the web and discovered Honda's cheap TSB to drill and insert a tube. I just took the car into a local Honda service shop and they proudly told me my car was beyond the warranty for this particular TSB and that it would cost $500 to fix it. What! Are they crazy!?! I then asked how much the TSB EGR kit would cost (so I could do it myself --- I have the tech bulletin and it doesn't seem to difficult...just time consuming)...they said the cost was $100. Huh! for an 8mm bit (which I already have) and a tube? They've got to be kidding!

So...my question is...can someone post up or describe what this sleeve/tube looks like? Surely I can find one for a few pennies at a hardware/automotive shop. Also, as mbennett asked....what is the best way to clean these intake ports...and KEEP them CLEAN?

I wonder if the fact that here in VA where we are forced to use 10% Ethanol Gasoline if that is leaving deposits behind.

Thanks for any help!

Chris

BlkPrl2000EX

"Bump"

fiveten

[IMG]REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Remove the throttle body cover, intake manifold
covers, ignition wire holder, and ignition wire cover.


2. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose and the
vacuum hose from the intake manifold.

3. Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold
(two nuts and two bolts). Leave all hoses, cables,
and electrical connectors connected to the throttle
body. Reuse the throttle body gasket if it is not damaged. (use a rubber mallet
to separate throttle-body from manifold if necessary)

4. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Remove the intake manifold (three nuts and
six bolts).
5. Remove the intake manifold chamber, IAT sensor,
boost plate, and PCV hose from the intake
manifold.

6. Cover the six ports on the bottom of the manifold
with duct tape.

7. Use an 8-mm or 5/16 drill bit and carburetor cleaner to
clean the EGR port in the intake manifold. Turn the
drill bit only by hand. Do not use a power drill.

8. At this point there are two options. 1. Skip this step and
continue with step 9, 10, Skip 11,12 and continue
with step 13. 2. Put a 25/64 drill bit in your power drill. Coat
the drill bit completely with clean engine oil. NOTE: The oil
coating is critical to drilling the hole accurately, and it contributes
to drill bit life. Insert the drill bit into the EGR port. Make sure
the drill is in alignment with the freshly cleaned EGR port.
Then drill out the EGR port using steady pressure on the drill.
Make sure the port is drilled through completely.

Note: If you decide to skip step 11 and 12 your vehicle and
the EGR system will operate normally. Because of this engineering
defect the port will become clogged again and will require cleaning.
Installing the pipe kit is an engineering workaround for the defect
and should not become clogged again.




9. Clean up the chips from drilling, then
remove the duct tape.

10. Put the manifold in a parts washer (solvent or soap
and water) and clean it thoroughly.
• Flush out the EGR port for 20 seconds.
• Flush out the manifold from the throttle body
opening. Run cleaner down each side for 20
seconds.
• Flush each intake runner for 10 seconds. Start at
the throttle body end and work towards the back.
• Turn the manifold so the throttle body opening is
facing down. Flush each main runner for 20
seconds.
• Dry the manifold with compressed air and clean
shop towels.





11. Place the EGR pipe from the kit into the EGR port.



12. Use a small hammer to drive the EGR pipe into the
port until it is flush with the port. Make sure the pipe will
not contact the gasket after installation.



13. Install the intake manifold chamber; torque the nuts
and bolts to 12 N•m (8.7 lb-ft). Install the IAT
sensor; torque it to 18 N•m (13 lb-ft). Install the
boost plate; torque the bolts to 12 N•m (8.7 lb-ft).
Install the PCV hose.

14. Inspect the EGR port in the front of the injector
base on the engine. If it is partially or fully clogged,
clean the port.

15. Disconnect the 6P connector from the EGR valve.
Remove the EGR valve.




16. Install the new EGR valve with a new gasket.
Torque the mounting nuts to 22 N•m (16 lb-ft).
Reconnect the 6P connector.

17. Install the intake manifold with the original gasket.
Torque the mounting nuts and bolts to 22 N•m (16
lb-ft) sequentially in two or three steps. Route the
PCV hose so it is not pinched under the intake
manifold.



18. Install the PCV valve in the cylinder head cover.

19. Install the throttle body with gasket. Torque
the mounting nuts and bolts to 22 N•m (16 lb-ft).

20. Reinstall the brake booster vacuum hose, vacuum
hose, ignition wire holder, and all of the covers.

21. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure no new DTCs
are set.

BlkPrl2000EX

Thanks for the TSB procedure. I actually had found this TSB writeup. What I'm wondering now is if anyone knows the size of the stainless steel tubes that are being inserted into the ports. I would prefer "NOT" to have spend $100+ (which is what the dealer is saying) on the EGR Port Kit (my car is beyond the warranty period )

Surely, one can purchase the stainless steel tubes separately. Any ideas? Any pics of the tubes prior to them being installed?

What about the idea of following the TSB steps, but just clean out the ports? (saw this procedure on a few other posts) I guess one would have to do this cleaning periodically --- and that's the reason behind inserting the stainless steel tubes -- thereby reducing the ability of the carbon to build up.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

fiveten

You dont need the pipe. If you just drill it out it will work. It will build up again after a while but it is not that difficult to clean out.

B16Civic93

bringing this back from the dead....

you say its not that hard to clean it again, is there an easier way to get to it rather then taking the entire im apart in order to clean it again after carbon and gunk seems to build back up?


thanks

thisoldcarTL

Hi Chris,
New to this forum... did you ever get this problem fix with the TSB instruction?