Help on a clutch install on a 07 Si. ASAP
10-26-2007, 10:06 AM
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Help on a clutch install on a 07 Si. ASAP
Today is Oct. 26 and i need some help on what i need to do to swap out my clutch. My stock one is fried! I need any tips/help ASAP because i am doing it tomorrow. I am switching to a competition stg. 2 clutch. I have never worked on a K but do uderstand B and D series. Will i be able to do it with basic knowledge of B's n D's and with any of your help/tips and if possible pics? Thanks.
10-26-2007, 10:48 AM
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Just a guess, but if you can do it on a D or B, chances are you'll be able to figure it out for a K.
I'm curious, how exactly did you fry it? A few too many hard launches?
I'm curious, how exactly did you fry it? A few too many hard launches?
10-26-2007, 12:04 PM
#4
Re: (exhaust_note)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by exhaust_note »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">double clutching? why do we have syncros then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seriously. He should have just said "driving like a douche"
Seriously. He should have just said "driving like a douche"
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10-26-2007, 02:04 PM
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Re: (I:_Drive)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamanforlife »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and I tought I was hard on my baby! LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>
What?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 07 K20a3 Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Today is Oct. 26 and i need some help on what i need to do to swap out my clutch. My stock one is fried! I need any tips/help ASAP because i am doing it tomorrow. I am switching to a competition stg. 2 clutch. I have never worked on a K but do uderstand B and D series. Will i be able to do it with basic knowledge of B's n D's and with any of your help/tips and if possible pics? Thanks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
e brake launches.....
learn how to drive. maybe you won't fry your clutch every 8k miles.
What?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 07 K20a3 Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Today is Oct. 26 and i need some help on what i need to do to swap out my clutch. My stock one is fried! I need any tips/help ASAP because i am doing it tomorrow. I am switching to a competition stg. 2 clutch. I have never worked on a K but do uderstand B and D series. Will i be able to do it with basic knowledge of B's n D's and with any of your help/tips and if possible pics? Thanks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
e brake launches.....
learn how to drive. maybe you won't fry your clutch every 8k miles.
10-26-2007, 03:46 PM
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Re: (07 k20a3 S!)
so locking the rear wheels keeps the front ones from spinning.... gotcha. 
Edit: also. i think you are the first person in the world to have a k20a3 in a 07 Si. congrats.
Edit: also. i think you are the first person in the world to have a k20a3 in a 07 Si. congrats.
10-26-2007, 05:34 PM
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Re: (I:_Drive)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I:_Drive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so locking the rear wheels keeps the front ones from spinning.... gotcha.
Edit: also. i think you are the first person in the world to have a k20a3 in a 07 Si. congrats.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol a3, one hell of an up grade
Edit: also. i think you are the first person in the world to have a k20a3 in a 07 Si. congrats.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol a3, one hell of an up grade
10-26-2007, 07:01 PM
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Re: (reaper702)
he made two different user names. there is a 07 k20a3 Si and an 07 k20a3 S!. whats the deal? one has 5 posts and the other has 2 posts. and both were created on the 26. he made one user name to make a thread and another to reply to his own thread.
10-26-2007, 07:10 PM
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Re: (07 k20a3 S!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 07 k20a3 S! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i only have 8300 miles on it and i only waited until about...300 miles to start beating on it and then i beat on it for another 8k miles...lol...running at the track (Ebrake launchs) burn outs, dropping the clutch, power shifting, double clutching and...everything...lol everyone that rode with me said that my clutch wasnt going to last...o well...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh well??
Do you **** money or what? From the looks of it it sounds like your clutch isn't the only thing that's gonna get torn to pieces.
I'll be looking forward to your next topic about your blown transmission, or whatever genius idea you decide to come up with to completely annihilate a BRAND NEW CAR!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh well??
Do you **** money or what? From the looks of it it sounds like your clutch isn't the only thing that's gonna get torn to pieces. I'll be looking forward to your next topic about your blown transmission, or whatever genius idea you decide to come up with to completely annihilate a BRAND NEW CAR!
10-26-2007, 07:15 PM
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Re: (I:_Drive)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I:_Drive »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">his mommy prolly paid for all of it. gg</TD></TR></TABLE>
Or maybe he doesn't have one at all and is just wasting everyone's time with his amazing lack of knowledge and common sense. His username says it all.
Or maybe he doesn't have one at all and is just wasting everyone's time with his amazing lack of knowledge and common sense. His username says it all.
10-29-2007, 04:17 PM
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holllyy ****. thats horrible.
noticed k-series uses a bushing type pilot bearing. doesn't b-series use a ball bearing type.
Modified by exhaust_note at 1:27 AM 10/30/2007
noticed k-series uses a bushing type pilot bearing. doesn't b-series use a ball bearing type.
Modified by exhaust_note at 1:27 AM 10/30/2007
10-29-2007, 04:48 PM
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Re: (exhaust_note)
Why is everyone bashing the guy? He knows the implications his driving has on his car and he chooses to do it. If he's prepared to pay for a new clutch every 8k miles, then so be it. It'd be a completely different thing if he came on here whining about how cheap the clutches were in the new SI's.
10-29-2007, 11:13 PM
#18
Re: (elohel)
I say his car, his money, his problem. I personally would love to see a more detailed step by step write-up of how to do a clutch change on the SI. I don't think I'll need it anytime soon, but when it does happen I'd like to have as many resources available as i can. As long as you make a positive contribution to the HT community you can drive however you like . Besides if he wanted to baby it everywhere he went I'm sure he'd be driving a hybrid.
. Besides if he wanted to baby it everywhere he went I'm sure he'd be driving a hybrid.
10-30-2007, 05:25 AM
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Re: (piotrush)
if your clutch is that smoked after 8000 miles id like to see your tires... ive never herd of someone going threw a new clutch that quick... well at least you know the engine is strong... ::knock on wood::
11-05-2007, 02:37 PM
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Re: (hondamanforlife)
Hey Guys, thanks for all taking my side about the bashing. Its pretty lame how when you come on here asking for help people bash you. I beat the car some but its really from not breaking it in and e-brake lauchs. But now i have a stg competition clutch and competitions Forged Ultra Lightweight Steel Flywheel. The stock 07 Si's flywheel was 16.2lbs and the new one is 8.10 lbs. And it revs so nice/fast now. As for a write up I can give it to you, step by step directions. Thanks to honda06si16 and Blueroadster off 8th gen civic and AJP. Its actually pretty easy. Just time comsuming and lots of bolts.
I am sure i will miss something but this is the bulk of the directions. The torque specs will be between the tranny write up and how to add fluid back into the tranny. Hope this helps anyone else out in the future. PM me if you need any guidence of Instant message me at Badboyfolife22.
First, you will need to jack the car up and place it on four jack stands (or raise the car on a lift). Remove the front passenger tire and set it aside (this will allow access to the side oil pan bolts and a few others that will be easier to access). Next, remove the front lower splash guard from underneath by removing all clips that secure it to the vehicle. Set the lower splash guard aside.
At this point, you are ready to start the process of removing the mounts and bolts that secure the sub-frame to the vehicle. Begin by removing the two bolts that hold the cover that shields the flywheel and connects to the transmission and oil pan.
Remove the bolt that holds the rear mount to the bracket that connects to the oil pan, remove the four bolts that hold the bracket to the oil pan, and remove the bolt that connects the rear mount to the sub-frame (still installed in the below PIC).
Remove the two bolts on the bracket (already modified in the below PIC to support the turbo kit installation) that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame.
On the other side, remove the one bolt (already partially removed) on the other bracket that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame.
On the front mount, push up on the lower radiator hose to remove it from the holding bracket. You can also see the nut that holds the bolt that will be removed in the next step.
Remove the bolt that connects the front mount to the sub-frame.
On the driver's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody.
On the passenger's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody.
On the passenger's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt.
On the driver's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt.
On the driver's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt.
On the passenger's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt.
At this point, the sub-frame will only be connected to the suspension mount points on both sides of the car. In this state, you can lower the sub-frame like a see-saw for front or rear clearance as needed. Make sure to support the steering and steering pump via zip ties or straps, if you dont you may damage it. I used a zip tie and put it around the headers.
NOW ONTO THE TRANNY_________________________________
drain the tranny fluid
the intermediate shaft has a bracket with 3 bolts on it on mounted on the back of the engine...you take those 3 bolts out....leave the passenger side axle in the intermediate shaft and just take the shaft out of the transmission....but you have to pop the drivers side out of the transmission but it is eaiser if you just take off both axles.
ok to start to drop the tranny youll need to take the whole shifter cable assembly off the transmission....take out the bushings and then the 3 bolts holding it on
you need to disconnect the clutch fluid line from the slave cylinder
disconnect this ground along with this mount for the clutch fluid line
dont forget the VSS (its under the upper radiator hose)
now the tranny mount.....its tricky....take out the bolts indicated here:
now one of those^is actually the ecu holddown bracket.... but you need to move it to get to the other bolts....so the other bolt to the computer holddown bracket is underneath and behind the ecu...
Next theres 3 bolts holding the mount down to the frame on the drivers side:
Take off this sensor
Take off the bellhousing bolts... theres 8....and THEY ARENT ALL THE SAME SO KEEP THEM ORGANIZED
NOW FOR THE TORQUE SPECS
Pressure Plate- 19 ft lbs.
Bell Housing- 47 ft lbs.
Fly Wheel- 90 ft lbs.
ADDING FLUID BACK TO THE TRANNY_________________________________
use 4 jack stands...
or on 1 stand just filled it up like 1.8qt to 2qt.
okey...jack the drivers side,
unbolt the filler plug,
then unbolt the drain plug.
put the car down,
let it drain.
jack the car up again
put the drain bolt back
take off the wheel
fill the transmission up to 1.8qt-2qt
put the wheel back
put the car down,let the excess fluid out
jack the car up,put the filler plug back in.
put the car down then
Modified by 07 K20a3 Si at 6:54 PM 11/5/2007
I am sure i will miss something but this is the bulk of the directions. The torque specs will be between the tranny write up and how to add fluid back into the tranny. Hope this helps anyone else out in the future. PM me if you need any guidence of Instant message me at Badboyfolife22.
First, you will need to jack the car up and place it on four jack stands (or raise the car on a lift). Remove the front passenger tire and set it aside (this will allow access to the side oil pan bolts and a few others that will be easier to access). Next, remove the front lower splash guard from underneath by removing all clips that secure it to the vehicle. Set the lower splash guard aside.
At this point, you are ready to start the process of removing the mounts and bolts that secure the sub-frame to the vehicle. Begin by removing the two bolts that hold the cover that shields the flywheel and connects to the transmission and oil pan.
Remove the bolt that holds the rear mount to the bracket that connects to the oil pan, remove the four bolts that hold the bracket to the oil pan, and remove the bolt that connects the rear mount to the sub-frame (still installed in the below PIC).Remove the two bolts on the bracket (already modified in the below PIC to support the turbo kit installation) that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame.
On the other side, remove the one bolt (already partially removed) on the other bracket that secures the steering rack to the sub-frame.
On the front mount, push up on the lower radiator hose to remove it from the holding bracket. You can also see the nut that holds the bolt that will be removed in the next step.
Remove the bolt that connects the front mount to the sub-frame.
On the driver's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody.
On the passenger's side, remove the upper bolt that secures the sub-frame to the unibody.
On the passenger's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt.
On the driver's side, remove the front main sub-frame bolt.
On the driver's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt.
On the passenger's side, remove the rear main sub-frame bolt.
At this point, the sub-frame will only be connected to the suspension mount points on both sides of the car. In this state, you can lower the sub-frame like a see-saw for front or rear clearance as needed. Make sure to support the steering and steering pump via zip ties or straps, if you dont you may damage it. I used a zip tie and put it around the headers.
NOW ONTO THE TRANNY_________________________________
drain the tranny fluid
the intermediate shaft has a bracket with 3 bolts on it on mounted on the back of the engine...you take those 3 bolts out....leave the passenger side axle in the intermediate shaft and just take the shaft out of the transmission....but you have to pop the drivers side out of the transmission but it is eaiser if you just take off both axles.
ok to start to drop the tranny youll need to take the whole shifter cable assembly off the transmission....take out the bushings and then the 3 bolts holding it on
you need to disconnect the clutch fluid line from the slave cylinder
disconnect this ground along with this mount for the clutch fluid line
dont forget the VSS (its under the upper radiator hose)
now the tranny mount.....its tricky....take out the bolts indicated here:
now one of those^is actually the ecu holddown bracket.... but you need to move it to get to the other bolts....so the other bolt to the computer holddown bracket is underneath and behind the ecu...
Next theres 3 bolts holding the mount down to the frame on the drivers side:
Take off this sensor
Take off the bellhousing bolts... theres 8....and THEY ARENT ALL THE SAME SO KEEP THEM ORGANIZED
NOW FOR THE TORQUE SPECS
Pressure Plate- 19 ft lbs.
Bell Housing- 47 ft lbs.
Fly Wheel- 90 ft lbs.
ADDING FLUID BACK TO THE TRANNY_________________________________
use 4 jack stands...
or on 1 stand just filled it up like 1.8qt to 2qt.
okey...jack the drivers side,
unbolt the filler plug,
then unbolt the drain plug.
put the car down,
let it drain.
jack the car up again
put the drain bolt back
take off the wheel
fill the transmission up to 1.8qt-2qt
put the wheel back
put the car down,let the excess fluid out
jack the car up,put the filler plug back in.
put the car down then
Modified by 07 K20a3 Si at 6:54 PM 11/5/2007
11-05-2007, 04:06 PM
#22
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man maybe his clutch went up so fast b/c of the mods that he has done to the car. you shouldnt have a problem with the clutch now that its upgraded. Hope it all ends up well for ya. what setup you running anyway???
11-06-2007, 09:08 AM
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Re: (PostIt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PostIt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the Fu** is double clutching i always thought it was a dumbass fast and furious term ha</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_clutching
i love that website
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_clutching
i love that website