spAdam

iTrader: (1)

No point really, the market would be so small it wouldn't be effective to engineer a replacement for them. At the user level, by the time you go in and start spending that kind of money on a design that is mediocre to begin with, you might as well just put a vtec head on it and call it a day.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

I figures it was implied that it wouldn't be worth it to get custom rockers, people have made great power, and have been able to rev to 9k plus on stock rockers. The rockers do not pop out as often as people think. They usually pop out because of weak valve train, overrevving, misshifting, or beating the **** out of the engine without your valve adjustment being in spec. I recently had a friend contact me about a rocker popping out. So yes spAdam is correct, swap a vtec head on if you are worried about the rockers, but I doubt you will have a problem, as long as you take care of the engine.

Alexslow1k

I have a question for you N/A guys and girls.
What kind of vacuum are you pulling on idle with crower 404s.
I barely see 10 inches of vacuum and it creeps down to 6 or 7 inches at times.
It really is annoying through stop and go traffic as there is not much vacuum for the brake booster.

Maluko

May purchase a p8r head and some 405s this wk

DA BOSS

iTrader: (1)

I have one FS (ported / 405As / etc) if you can't find one.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

Surprising you still have that stuff, thought it was all long gone

DA BOSS

iTrader: (1)

I/M and head and cams are all that's left. Bottom end is now in Augusta, Ga with more than 30lbs of boost on it. Nitrous kit is in Kansas. Shell is in FL. It's not everyday someone wants to build a serious non-v B series.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the middle of one myself, I tried getting the came from you a while back, bit I've found a set of 405As. But I should get your ported P8R, but I already have most of the parts for mine, just have to send it off to Laskey.


I am building:
85mm ~13:1 or so custom arias piston (14.1:1 w/GSR block, 89mm stroke, b16 head)
Brian Crower LW sportsman rods BC6057
Eagle crank LW&KE (5lbs less than stock)
OEM bearings
Fully balanced
ATI race damper
SI valves stainless valves
Crower dual springs titanium retainers
Hytech rep big tube
ARP head and main studs
70mm TB
Hopefully Laskey Racing ported head
Not sure about IM (currently Type-r)

J1 trans

m4xwellmurd3r

Forgot about this thread for a bit lol.

I did a little digging and it looks like my 10.7:1 pistons are more like 10.9:1 once you take bore and the stock headgasket thickness into consideration. Theyre only 10.7:1 at an 81mm bore and .030 headgasket.

Anyways, found a program called virtual dyno. It uses vehicle data like weight, drag, tire size, etc and a datalog of the run to plot a dyno graph comparable to a dyno jet. Which afaik read around 10% high (I think it has a 1.10 correction in it that I havent dropped to a flat 1.0)

Attachment 382467

Not bad for a stock ls head!

Minus 10% still comes out to about 143whp which is what I expected a stock ls with a healthy compression bump and a tune.

Next up will be modifying a stock intake for these suckers

m4xwellmurd3r

Dyno plot didnt post

DA BOSS

iTrader: (1)

I hate saying this (since I'm the seller)... but you couldn't build this head for what I'm selling it for. Good deal on finding the 405As... it's a tough thing to do to get the real ones. Congrats! Your build sounds like it's gonna be a screamer.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

Yea im definitely interested in the head, and I know you have a bunch invested, as I'm halfway through my own, if you still have the head, PM me. Couldn't hurt to have 2 built P8R heads.


And I'm hoping it'll be a runner haha, I'm at a disadvantage because I'm putting this engine into my 91 DA, but that's the whole allure of the car culture, being different haha.

And I'm trying to be on Nonvteceg6's level. 231hp from his B20.

Maluko

Whats up fellas! New pick up today. B16 manifold. Pretty excited about it!

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

If you aren't planning on porting, installing cams, and revving higher, I suggest against the B16/Type-r. Your car will have no low end power.

I am using a Type-r IM, and its great, but I also have cams, and the capability to rev to 8500rpm. I've used the PR3, P30, P75, PR4, P73, and I love the p73 by far, but as I said, I have the supporting mods for the engine to pull up top, yet still have decent low end. For most the p30 might be better.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I'm working on sourcing a P2T for mine currently, to do some experimenting.

Planning to mock it up on a spare p75 head, if I don't see a way to machine it so that it still fits to my liking, I'll probably pass it on.

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

Is that the b20 giraffe manifold, or something from a civic?

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

99-00 Si/EM1. Has the port on top so I can hook up the evap.

I've seen B16 manifolds on P75/P8R heads a few times, but they always look like hack jobs (by my standards at least). I'm gonna see if there's a cleaner way to do it, and if I get it figured out I can go to a friend's houses to set it up on his mill and machine it as needed.

One of the perks of being an engineer is having no shortage of friends with machine shops in their garages

darnizzle8805

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I agree with you on the whole hack job bit, I've cut the water ports off of my P30, PR3, and P73 manifolds. Yea they look like **** haha, but I was given them all for free, my car isn't a show car, and I only pop my hood for tech inspection haha, but I'll try to clean everything up when I finish my b20 and P8R build.

I wish that Junk2 made an Ultra series manifold for the nonvtecs. I may try to find a PerformerX, if I don't decide to use ITB's. Either of which should perform better than my P73 I currently use, and plan to use on my new build.

DA9DAN

Ive got a question: why is there conflicting information regarding PR3 pistons in B18A/B: 10.8 - 11.4??? Does anyone know for sure what the actual compression ratio would be with the pistons in an undecked/shaved block or head? Ive looked around and those two ratios seem to be 50/50 in evryones opinion. Same with using cspeed and zeal compression calculators. Any help would be appreciated.

Frankacura

Here is the water pass tapered and the Upper last IM stud that going to need welding on intake Manifold to drill the hole aligned wit the stud

blackeg

you have to keep us in the loop for how you make out. from what i read they really seem to be the best "street" manifold for stockish to moderate builds. about 10 years ago i did it on a boosted stock ls motor but as you said it was a bit hacked up. good news was torque didnt start to drop until about 6200 rpm rather than in the mid 5000 range with stock cams so i figure it helped me gain another 700ish rpm of flat tq etc. once it dropped it tapered slowly and didnt plummet like they can sometimes do.

i just bought some 403's im sure ill use them on something at some point and id like to have a b16 manifold mated to it

how necessary is it to get to that last bolt? what about just a dab of hondabond on the gasket on the underside of the #4 runner to ensure it doesnt leak air if its not getting that last bit of tq from the bolt? it doesnt need the extra clamping force for the coolant passage because that is now separate from the manifold.

speaking of, does anyone know the ID of that coolant port? i wouldnt mind tapping it and threading in a fitting. last time i did it there was more jb weld than i want to admit involved but i was a broke college student so...

m4xwellmurd3r

First time at the track! 4th gear is trash in this b16 trans so I was havin to do 3-5 shifts at the top of the track around the 1000ft mark.
Car weighs 2710. Its a db1, so is no light weight.

Virtual dyno says my car makes 159whp (10% inflated) and according to the time and mph my cars putting out around 142whp+
Car 382

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I need to get back on it, I kind of had a false start on the project as holidays/vacation/etc were looming when I started looking at it, and I've been working on my engine sim and datalogger a little more since then too.

Maybe this weekend if I have the time I can drag my junk P75 head out of the attic, take the P73 mani off of my other motor, and mock it up. Threaded the coolant port in is the way to go on it for sure though.

Dsilver024

Didnt see this thread earlier but guess never too late...
Drive ~100 miles a day so reliability was a main issue.. i also drive like a dick and top my car out daily so with that in mind I tried the most OEM based build possible mixed with best bang for the buck... On the road to work at 4 am so empty roads gave me the urge to modify my LS.

Got the teggy early '14 ('98Ls) got some Webs and suspension and let that ride till I got type R clutch, 7 lbs cromoly flywheel with a FPR, SRI and 62 mm TB (port matched LS mani) ...That netted me 125 whp and 112 tq which is the dyno page I uploaded...stock everything beside whats listed...No tune just tweakin the fuel pressure...pretty decent power and curve for basically stock 200,000 mile motor. Also did a full tune up with this set up during install and goin from original motor with 200,000+ miles to this was drastic change.. got hooked and ragged that out till it smoked. Wanted to swap heads to fix it but since the head was off figured id do pistons too.... when I went to do all that,realized my rod bearings had worn down to last layer of metal so with an excuse to rebuild motor decided to do w.e. I could to avoid down time down the road ...said and done the teg sits like this at the end of the year:

•B18b1 block, crank and rods.
•NPR P30 Pistons (best $140 I spent on the car to date)
•Oem bearings
•Oem head gasket
•B20b P75 head, and valves
•Dual spring intake spring *only swapped out cause stock springs were shot and with b20z cams being just a little longer lift and duration figured to stiffen them up if b18 cams ragged out the old ones. Had a b16 with a hole in the block and 2 spare LS heads so my mechanic figured a b18/b16 spring combo to be the best free remedy. Have springs and retainers for crower cams set aside but didnt use them cause theyd chew up stock cam -crower metallurgy stronger/diff. Needed something stronger but for OEM cams.
•B20z cams (got for $15 so why not, measured and were bigger that stock LS but smaller than 403s)
•AEM cam gears
•Type R oil pump
•Type R oil cooler
•Mugen thermostat and thermo switch
•Taylor Race spark plug wires
•AEM cold air intake (3")
•Edlebrock 66" TB
•PLM exhaust and TB thermal gasket
•Port matched LS manifold with coolant blocked and re-routed
•Comptech 4-2-1 header
•Test pipe/cat delete
•2.5" cutsom mandrel bent stainless exhaust
•Boral pro xs muffler
•Hasport 62a rear mount with new Oem side mounts.
Tuned with VAFC NEO and stock ecu so still got some juice to squeeze outta it.

Did the front Proparts USA big brake kit (TY Hondatech for that) wanting to have a balanced car and made a world of a diff with the set of Dunlop direzzas I got.
Brake kit included:
•280 mm rotors (off a non-S mini) no need to redrill prelude rotors.
•Type R caliper and ceramic pads (look like the lengend caliper but all the same **** from what Ive read, seen, heard).
Still rockin stock LS set up out back with ceramic pads.

All this with full strut bars, sub frame (sway bar on its way), rear tie bar, camber kit with KYB reds and eibach springs and my 160 lbs self make for a fun drive on on ramps, turns and turnpike..... a few things done for power, some for insurance at WOT for extended periods, all for reliability.
Shop with a dyno closed up but should be makin a drive up north at months end to see where this set up lands in terms of power. Mechanic did a compression test and said 10.8:1 with 220 across all cylinders (one at 222).
I used a compression calculator and said 11:1. Basically got a 1.8 liter CRV motor on roids...

With a LS trans, Ran a 16.3 with just the I/H/E 62mm TB & FPR (2"exhaust instead of 2.5) but that was with tires at 35 psi, after a 200 miles drive to moroso/palm beach and with a horrible 60. That, a 16.9 first pass and a 16.5 second pass which i missed a gear in were the only ones I got before close...first time at track so acceptable considering each pass was faster and low to flat 16s is what a LS with bolt ons does......Got there late so couldnt cool down, or dial it in but got another track day on the 30 so ill repost if anything..
Also topped her out at 140 last week but the 50° temps last week had to play into that and spedo read 140 so factor in w.e. for corrected mph, had about another 1200 rpm in 5th so maybe woulda hit actual 140.

Got MSD, knife edge and coated crank, lighter rods along with springs and retainers sittin for when I get bored...dunno if boostin or goin further on NA so waiting on cams and pistons but its all thats needed for set up 2 to be ready.. next is gettin a manifold with hondata and dialing in this set up, maybe e85 since I pass 4 gas stations with it omw to work or swapping out final drive in trans. Keep ya posted

Frankacura

B20Z bloc decked 20 tow Stock pistons/Rods, New Rings/berings
P8R ported head shaved 20 tow
Type R IM JDM type R TB Clinick injectors 650cc
Crower 62404 Cams Springs/Retainers
tri-Y big tube full 3' exhaust
212Whp
11.42@116MPH (No Exhaust) EF Race Car

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