How To: Brake Line Tuck Guidelines..
#52
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Re: (DAneronimo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAneronimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you just use a standard double flare if you are using the AN adapters with hardline? or do you have to do a different style flare? i think the standard flare is 45* and an AN fitting is 37*, so does that mean that you need to do a 37* flare on the hardline when using the adapters? if so, my next question would be where do you get a 37* flare tool? i've never seen one anywhere. even at jegs, all they have is the regular old flare tool that you can buy anywhere....
sorry for the novel </TD></TR></TABLE>
Rigid makes one and you can find decent looking ones on ebay (although I don't know how trustworthy they are)
sorry for the novel </TD></TR></TABLE>
Rigid makes one and you can find decent looking ones on ebay (although I don't know how trustworthy they are)
#53
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Re: (LKSi)
thanks for the reply, i actually answered my own question.....jegs actually does have a 37* flare tool....just never noticed i guess..
thanks!
thanks!
#54
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Re: (DAneronimo)
maybe im missing something here, but i have a question.
Where can i buy 10x1.0mm Inverted Flare Fittings? i've found them for 3/16" tube, but im sure the thread pitch is standard. I also havent had much luck finding out what thread pitch they are, so i cannot find any adapters either...
EDIT: found it http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
Modified by g2_teg_ at 5:50 PM 10/23/2007
Where can i buy 10x1.0mm Inverted Flare Fittings? i've found them for 3/16" tube, but im sure the thread pitch is standard. I also havent had much luck finding out what thread pitch they are, so i cannot find any adapters either...
EDIT: found it http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
Modified by g2_teg_ at 5:50 PM 10/23/2007
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Re: (DAneronimo)
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shaving the bay and DEF doing the prop valve relocation. but since its a daily driven street car, keeping heat and interior and wipers. so the prop valve is only gonna go lower in the bay/ or maybe in the wheel well or under the frame.. we'll see..
thanks for the right up
it renews my faith in honda-tech when i see ppl doing helpful things like this and not just flaming everyone that asks a question and isnt 110% JDM.
to you
shaving the bay and DEF doing the prop valve relocation. but since its a daily driven street car, keeping heat and interior and wipers. so the prop valve is only gonna go lower in the bay/ or maybe in the wheel well or under the frame.. we'll see..
thanks for the right up
it renews my faith in honda-tech when i see ppl doing helpful things like this and not just flaming everyone that asks a question and isnt 110% JDM.
to you
#58
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Re: (g2_teg_)
is there a concern about the different lengths of hardline/braided line going to the wheels?
it must be negligible, but would it matter when bleeding the brakes?
it must be negligible, but would it matter when bleeding the brakes?
#59
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Re: (jdmsiR20)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmsiR20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a concern about the different lengths of hardline/braided line going to the wheels?
it must be negligible, but would it matter when bleeding the brakes? </TD></TR></TABLE>
#1) i wouldnt put braided line to the wheels... i have braided in my setup but it doesnt go to the wheels..
#2) i dont think it matters to much just keep your lines relatively the same length.
it must be negligible, but would it matter when bleeding the brakes? </TD></TR></TABLE>
#1) i wouldnt put braided line to the wheels... i have braided in my setup but it doesnt go to the wheels..
#2) i dont think it matters to much just keep your lines relatively the same length.
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Re: (MidwestAutoWorks)
well i finished my brake line tuck and it looks like i have two or three little leaks. maybe my flares werent good enough?
EDIT: or do u think i need some type of thread sealant? (liquid or tape?)
EDIT: or do u think i need some type of thread sealant? (liquid or tape?)
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Re: (Weak!EG)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Weak!EG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">#2) i dont think it matters to much just keep your lines relatively the same length.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it actually doesnt matter is the lines are all different lengths...just as long as the entire length is filled with fluid and no air.
It just may make things a little more difficult or confusing when bleeding the brakes.
it actually doesnt matter is the lines are all different lengths...just as long as the entire length is filled with fluid and no air.
It just may make things a little more difficult or confusing when bleeding the brakes.
#63
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Re: (EF8kid)
aight guys sorry for the noob questions. ive been searchin on different site and reading here for more info.
i finally got some of my brake line figured out
this is what im workin with- and yes my egine bay is dirt as hell. its my project im workin with now. firsth thing thats gotta go is abs.
heres my set up. please lemme know if i can improve it
master cylinder------------------> prop valve
banjo bolt- for the one on the side- green circle
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=158
banjo bolt- for the one on the top, and have it coming off the passendger side- light blue circle
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
then use bulk heads to get through the fire wall
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=154
this is what im unsure of. can i use this to connect the -3an line to prop valve or do i need somethng else?
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1648
or
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1646
or is it something totally different. this is where im stuck in my brake line project. i dont know what fittings to use to go to the prop valve and the fittings to go to my ealrs stainless steel brake lines.
i was planning on running all stainless. but above someone recomended not using stainless to ur brakes?
like i said sorry for the noob questions. but i have a habit of buying things that arent need for the project. i dont wanna do that here. i want to have a plan laid out so i know exactly what to get.
thanx in adavnce for ur help
i finally got some of my brake line figured out
this is what im workin with- and yes my egine bay is dirt as hell. its my project im workin with now. firsth thing thats gotta go is abs.
heres my set up. please lemme know if i can improve it
master cylinder------------------> prop valve
banjo bolt- for the one on the side- green circle
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=158
banjo bolt- for the one on the top, and have it coming off the passendger side- light blue circle
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku
then use bulk heads to get through the fire wall
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=154
this is what im unsure of. can i use this to connect the -3an line to prop valve or do i need somethng else?
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1648
or
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1646
or is it something totally different. this is where im stuck in my brake line project. i dont know what fittings to use to go to the prop valve and the fittings to go to my ealrs stainless steel brake lines.
i was planning on running all stainless. but above someone recomended not using stainless to ur brakes?
like i said sorry for the noob questions. but i have a habit of buying things that arent need for the project. i dont wanna do that here. i want to have a plan laid out so i know exactly what to get.
thanx in adavnce for ur help
#64
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Re: (Andrew Marquis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrew Marquis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Excellent thread!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: How To: Brake Line Tuck Guidelines.. (EF9 JAMS!!!)
is it ok to mix aluminum fittings with steel fittings? because you have to use a steel fitting on the actual prop valve and mc, but i see people using aluminum sleeves, hose ends and bulkheads, is this ok?
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Re: How To: Brake Line Tuck Guidelines.. (Ramirez428)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ramirez428 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it ok to mix aluminum fittings with steel fittings? because you have to use a steel fitting on the actual prop valve and mc, but i see people using aluminum sleeves, hose ends and bulkheads, is this ok? </TD></TR></TABLE>
#71
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You guys should be wary running S/S lines from the BMC to the firewall, the more hardline you can use to plumb the car the much better its going to be longterm.
Also, i've heard many an arguement over the year about the double bubble flare and a/n adapters.... I've always used just a standard flaring tool and NEVER had a problem with the mating services, even with the small difference in the angles. Tube nuts ftw.
Also, i've heard many an arguement over the year about the double bubble flare and a/n adapters.... I've always used just a standard flaring tool and NEVER had a problem with the mating services, even with the small difference in the angles. Tube nuts ftw.
#73
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no i use the industry standard ISO 'double bubble' flare. but i guess the line is malleable enough at that point to just be squished into mating correctly.
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Re: (ComeOnKip)
Isnt it illegal in the US to use a single flare on a brake line?
How are all you guys doing your AN fittings if this is the case and you wanna keep it legal??
Maybe its not possible, just wanna know if theres a way.
Can you double flare and use an AN fitting??
How are all you guys doing your AN fittings if this is the case and you wanna keep it legal??
Maybe its not possible, just wanna know if theres a way.
Can you double flare and use an AN fitting??