Syndacate

So I'm going out to buy an aftermarket radio for my '97 EX Coupe.

I pull out the radio and see that it does have the black antenna on the back indicating that the car originally came with power door locks & remote. I got 2 regular keys with the car, but no remote. Peachy.

So I wanna retain "the ability" to have power door locks - so I was looking around for ways to keep the power door locks (oh yeah, did I mention the fact that the power door locks don't exactly work?). So it seems the best way is to get a pig-tail harness (or make one) and leave the OEM radio inside the dash and have the aftermarket radio stick out.

So I figure while I'm down there, I might as well see if I can find the problem to the power door locks. I narrowed it down to fuse #51 (20a) inside the engine bay - it keeps blowing whenever you try to use the door locks. So I figure there's a short in the system. So I pull off the panel (BTW: EK door panels are bitch and a half compared to EG panels..) and this is what I see:

Now I know I'm not the brightest bulb on the chandelier, but is this door kinda missing one of the key components for my door locks to work...like the power door lock control module...?









I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be where that tray is...

Did I get fucked out of my power door locks? 'Cause it sure as hell seems that way. I remember him saying he swapped the door b/c OEM one had a dent in it..is it possible he switched it w/ a door from a car that had power windows...but no power door locks? Or maybe he just took the tray for the power window and swapped that into this door?

If the door doesn't have power door locks OEM - is the wiring still there?

This is possibly the gayest thing I've ever seen. I'm pretty sure I got ***-fucked outta my power door locks...

Any info...?

EDIT:
I know on the EG it's up by the mirror - but there's nothing there, either....

Syndacate

Yeah, I forgot, this is H-T - only 10% of the people actually know wtf they're looking at and out of that 10% only 3 actually know what a "door lock module" is.

In any event.

I said "**** it" to the keyless entry and the power door locks - I'm not gonna do a "power door locks to power door locks" conversion .

I just bought a new head unit and installed it. I have the OEM radio but I didn't pigtail it and push it back.

Though I'm sure as 5% of you know, the domelight is connected to the radio's keyless entry brain and doesn't turn on when you open the door (but turns on if you switch it on manually).

Anybody know if there's a fix to this? I suppose the only fix is to wire it up directly to the door switch?

CRX T-Si

That plug in the first pic are the wires going into the powerdoor lock module.

There are four wires,
Blk, Blue - are the switch input

Yellow and white - connects to the motor. The Blu, Yel and Wht has strips on them but can't remember the other color but since there is only 4 i figure you all know what i am talking about.

You can test it if the PL works or not by applying power to the yellow and white whites as those 2 connects to the more direct.

If you got an alarm you just connect the 2 wires to the motor and it works fine. Worked for me.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX T-Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That plug in the first pic are the wires going into the powerdoor lock module.

There are four wires,
Blk, Blue - are the switch input

Yellow and white - connects to the motor. The Blu, Yel and Wht has strips on them but can't remember the other color but since there is only 4 i figure you all know what i am talking about.

You can test it if the PL works or not by applying power to the yellow and white whites as those 2 connects to the more direct.

If you got an alarm you just connect the 2 wires to the motor and it works fine. Worked for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Eh, it keeps popping fuse #51 in the engine bay.

I gotta figure out why, it's probably cutting in someplace but I can't locate it .

JSPECSIR

first of all, the radio has nothing to do with your power door locks working or not. the radio houses the keyless entry reciever on 96-98 models with keyless (mainly ex). and the dome lights door trigger wire passes through the radio on almost all models 96-98. if you remove the radio the keyless will fail to work because obviously its no longer there, thus keeping power to the oem radio and hiding it with the green plug in, retains keyless. also to retain your door trigger to your dome light you will need to jumper lt. green/black to lt. green/red in the green harness you unplugged from the back of the radio. if your domelight still works with the door now, and your radio is removed it is in the very few percent that the door trigger doesnt loop through the radio (which i have yet to ever see, only hearsay). now as far as the tray you speak of in you door, that is supposed to be there. the module for the door locks/ driver window automation is supposed to be located in the upper forward most opening in you door skeleton. just below and right of the inner handle assembly on your door in your pic. i hope this helps, and good luck tracking down that short.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSPECSIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first of all, the radio has nothing to do with your power door locks working or not. the radio houses the keyless entry reciever on 96-98 models with keyless (mainly ex). and the dome lights door trigger wire passes through the radio on almost all models 96-98. if you remove the radio the keyless will fail to work because obviously its no longer there, thus keeping power to the oem radio and hiding it with the green plug in, retains keyless. also to retain your door trigger to your dome light you will need to jumper lt. green/black to lt. green/red in the green harness you unplugged from the back of the radio. if your domelight still works with the door now, and your radio is removed it is in the very few percent that the door trigger doesnt loop through the radio (which i have yet to ever see, only hearsay). now as far as the tray you speak of in you door, that is supposed to be there. the module for the door locks/ driver window automation is supposed to be located in the upper forward most opening in you door skeleton. just below and right of the inner handle assembly on your door in your pic. i hope this helps, and good luck tracking down that short. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I know about all that radio stuff (did more searching).

I know where the door lock module is on EG's - and if it was in the same place in EK's would be very visible in the 3rd and 4th picture. But it isn't. There's nothing there, I mean it's a big 2x3" box - it's not like it's small.

My domelight obviously passes through the radio on mine as now it doesn't work w/ the door open .

I know it has nothing to do with the keyless entry - but I wanna get the power door locks working first, then I'll worry about getting remotes and getting them programmed. No sense in worrying about keyless entry quite yet.

On the flipside, the whole idea of a "radio in the dash" is just fucked up on quite a few levels. I guess that's what I have to do - I guess I'll screw it to something so it doesn't thump around in there every time I hit a bump. I gotta replace the resistor pack for my blower motor too - does anybody know if this is located on the rear of the climate control, or on/near the blower motor??

I guess when I rip everything apart I'll extend the green plug and put that OEM radio in there someplace.

I have no idea how to find a short unless it's obviously cutting into metal someplace. First thing's first, I have to find out if the power door lock module is actually in there - if they're in the same place as they are on an EG - it's not there. The actuator is there though, so .

So I gotta figure out first if all the components are actually there...I guess I'll look at manual to power door lock conversion how-to's for that.

I figure once I get the power doorlocks operational I just have to buy & code-sync the remotes and that should work (assuming I "Hide" the OEM radio in the dash some place...).

Yeah, if anybody could tell me where the resistor pack is for the fan speeds I'd greatly appreciate that too - only works on 3/4 - I'm tired of my nuts being frozen off by the AC on 3 .

Z3120

Yes, the door is missing the power door lock module on the driver side door. If this is the case then there should be a 12 pin connector (for power door lock module) without anything connecting to it. Check the driver side door harness.

bpr0422

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"></TD></TR></TABLE>

umm i would test this connector for shortage..

looks like it was fried.. and melted...

this could be causing the shorts.. also you can make your own door lock controller.. with the help of an alarm system.

the alarm system would control your keyless and locks (most have the relays built in)

and if the alarm brain is a nicer one - it can also control your dome light - but it doesn't do that fade out thing...

all u have to add to the alarm's wiring.. is the triggers to lock and unlock.

check out the12volt.com for some diagrams on how to wire up relays to control your power locks..

i suggest you use the 5 Wire Alternating Current

all u need to do is figure which of the 2 leads from your oem actuators un/locks the door.

relays are cheap, and easy to find... i dunno how hard it is to find the control module that u need, also u might have to replace that burnt connector...

-----edit-----------
in the pic, the connector looks like it has 4 wires...

i know 1 the lock and 1 is the unlock.

i think the other 2 are the signals that tell the controller if u are un/locking the door with the key... that way the controller could unlock the other doors on the second unlock key-turn, and lock all the doors on the lock key-turn. or dis/arm the factory alarm.

if you go on your passenger side the actuator should only have 2 wires.. if not.. i dunno..

best is to test it with a DMM


-------------edit2-------
btw the white plastic is honda's anti slimjim

and the metal tray is - i dunno.. but u have a door pocket right? it might be there to add structure to the door pocket..?


---blower resistor pack is normally on the blower itself.....alot of this car is the same as the eg.. honda doesn't change much...

Modified by bpr0422 at 9:45 PM 8/25/2007


Modified by bpr0422 at 9:48 PM 8/25/2007

Syndacate

Jeez, this is a lot to digest T_T.

I'll take a look at this in the morning.

Thanks for the responses.

JSPECSIR

does your drivers door window work? cause that module usually controls drivers window automation also. there should be a decent sized plug hanging out in the door where that module should be if its missing. i know 93-95 ex have the box in the door and 99-00 have the box in the door so i cant imagine 96-98 being any different. i just gutted a door at work the other day off of a 99-00 i got the whole door harness and the module out as well. if you feel you need this stuff we can work something out via pm. if you take this route we will need to verify that 96-98 and 99-00 uses the same harness and module as i have read somewhere there are a few changes. also you are correct about putting the radio back in the dash, its bullshit. theres barely enough room for it . your much better off buying a cheap keyless entry for now or buying a nice alarm system and using that for keyless. this route will prolly be cheaper than buying oem remotes and much less headache. if you will jumper the wire like i told you that will fix your domelight. also you will need to use a dmm to find your short to ground that keeps blowing your fuse. i would solve that problem first, even if you have to buy someone some beer to do it for you, then go from there. if it come down to it i can tell you how to wire you door locks to run off 2 relays or a dei 451m door lock module. (someone at bestbuy will give you one) but if the short is still present somewhere this may not work either. the driver door actuator has 4 wires because 2 of them are switched wires coming out. if you noticed on civics with working door locks you can use the switch to lock/unlock or you can just move the lock by hand and the pass. door mimics the drivers, it will also work this way from the outside keyhole. this is known as a "central locking system". also heres some info that may help.

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - HONDA / CIVIC / 1997 / Remote Start


[PRINT THIS PAGE]


12volts white (40A) + ignition harness
Starter black/white + ignition harness
Second Starter N/A
Ignition black/yellow + ignition harness
Second Ignition N/A
Third Ignition N/A
Accessory yellow + ignition harness
Second Accessory white/black + ignition harness
Keysense blue/white to blue/red - ignition harness
Power Lock green/white - driver kick, blue plug
Notes: Also found in the green factory alarm plug located behind the radio.
Power Unlock green/orange - driver kick, blue plug
Notes: Also found in the green factory alarm plug located behind the radio.

Use blue/yellow to unlock the driver door only.
Lock Motor white/red 5wi driver kick, door harness
Unlock Motor blue/red to yellow/red 5wi pwr door lock ctrl unit in driv door
Parking Lights+ red/black + driver kick, fuse box
Notes: Male blade terminal at fuse box. Also at the back of the dimmer switch.
Parking Lights- N/A
Hazards same as turn signal wires
Turn Signal(L) green/red + steering column
Turn Signal(R) green/yellow + steering column
Reverse Light green/black + driver kick, harness to rear
Door Trigger lt. green/red - factory alarm plug
Notes: Also found in the green factory alarm plug located behind the radio.

Can also be found in a light green plug above the fuse box or bottom of driver kick, harness to rear.
Dome Supervision lt. green/black - driv A pillar or factory alarm plug
Trunk/Hatch Pin blue/black - driver kick, harness to rear
Notes: Also found in the green factory alarm plug located behind the radio.
Hood Pin N/A
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A
Power Sliding Door N/A
Factory Alarm Arm factory remote only
Factory Alarm Disarm factory remote only
Disarm No Unlock factory remote only
Tachometer blue ac test tachometer connector
Notes: Driver side fire wall under hood.
Wait to start N/A
Brake Wire green/white + brake pedal switch
Parking Brake red/green - parking brake switch
Horn Trigger blue to gray - steering column
Notes: Also found in the green factory alarm plug located behind the radio.
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
No Type:
N/A
Part #: N/A
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available


This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.



DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - HONDA / CIVIC / 1997 / Accessory


[PRINT THIS PAGE]


12volts white (40A) + ignition harness
Ignition black/yellow + ignition harness
Parking Lights+ red/black + driver kick, fuse box
Notes: Male blade terminal at fuse box. Also at the back of the dimmer switch.
Parking Lights- N/A
Headlight red/white (L), red/blue (H) + headlight switch
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A
Power Sliding Door N/A
Speed Sense blue/white cruise control unit left of column
Wipers blue (L), blue/yellow (H) - steering column
LF Window up/dn red/yellow - red/blue A driver window switch in door
RF Window up/dn blue/yellow - blue/orange A driver kick, door harness
LR Window up/dn green/yellow - green A driver kick, door harness
RR Window up/dn yellow - yellow/green A driver kick, door harness
Sun Roof open/close green/red - green/yellow A moonroof relays under driver dash
Sun Roof Limit/close N/A
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
No Type:
N/A
Part #: N/A
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available


This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

Syndacate

No, there's no plugs. That big "burnt" plug goes to the door latch (where it closes around the door jam) itself. I don't know what the hell that's for.

As for the short - what the hell is a dmm?

Yeah, I plan on jumping the wire for the dome light - that's what I figured I'd have to do .

I'll take a look at that later. I gotta track this short first - but no, there's no "big plugs" - if there is - I can't find 'em. My power windows work 100%.

The only harness plugs that's there is windows, tweater, door locks, and speaker.

There should be one more for the door lock modulator but I can't find it .

I might go with a keyless entry system instead of the Honda OEM - it makes more sense - but I wanna get the power door locks repaired as you agreed with me - that's the *** of the problem. Nothing will work until it's fixed.

Can you throw a lil more info out there about this "dmm?"

JSPECSIR

a dmm is a digital multi meter. it measures voltage, ohms, current, and such. you can purchase one for as little as $3 at harbor freight. the "burnt" plug as you put it goes to the drivers door actuator, the actuator is attached to the door latch . 2 wires run the motor and 2 are the switched output that run the pass. door motor. its prolly not burnt. alot of times there is a grease thats put into non watertight connectors like the ones under the water barrier plastic on honda doors. this grease is to keep the moisture from causing corrosion on the terminals in the plug. over time dirt and such sticks to the grease and looks brown and "heated" like yours does. the plugs in my doors look the same.

JSPECSIR

yo, you finger it out

bpr0422

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSPECSIR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its prolly not burnt. alot of times there is a grease thats put into non watertight connectors like the ones under the water barrier plastic on honda doors. this grease is to keep the moisture from causing corrosion on the terminals in the plug. over time dirt and such sticks to the grease and looks brown and "heated" like yours does. the plugs in my doors look the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>

oOoooo.. i've never seen one of theses plugs myself... actually...

i have a 95dx...

had to wire the entire door myself

btw.. does that dirt stick to the plastic sheet?? cause in one of his pictures, his plastic sheet is brown too...

JSPECSIR

yeah, that grease gets everywhere. the pic your talking about, the connecter is under where the brown spot is. i wired all of my doors myself too. i put in oem lock actuators and wired them to a dei 451m and i put in oem window motor/regulators and oem switches and i used a dei 530t to run the windows. no oem harness, no oem plugs, and no oem modules. and ive got automation on both windows, up and down.

monicle

man ALOT of mis information here.

First of all your first picture is nowhere near where the control module is, its merely a picture of the connection between the door harness and the door lock itself, has nothing to do with the lock control module. 99% of these connectors have the same discoloration and its usually caused by the grease they use on it to keep water out. so it is not an indication that this is whats causing your fuse to blow. infact you can probably scrub it right off. however the picture isnt exactly clear so I cant give you a 100% guarantee that its not fried.

for the lock module itself its either going to be a white box behind your drivers side kick panel. it should look like this
or the blue box in the front portion of the drivers door seen here

keyless entry will usually have the former. Also it has nothing to do with your windows to correct what one person said.

the oem radio will have nothing to do with your locks working or not. it only affects your ability to use the keyless entry feature. so you can ditch it.

//////

now for the issue of your locks not working...

try disconnecting 1 component at a time, start by disconnecting the connector for the crivers lock, replace the fuse then try the switch and see if the passenger lock works without blowing the fuse, if the fuse blows plug the drivers lock back in and disconnect the passenger lock and do the same thing.
if it still blows with both of those try disconnecting the passenger door harness from the floor harness and try again.
you cant do the same test with the drivers door because the lock switch is on that harness. but iff the fuse still pops with all of those tests you know you have bare wire somewhere and its grounding out. youll simply have to look over all the wiring.

JSPECSIR

yeah that white box in the kick panel is normally in 99-00 models. and aparently they moved the drivers window automation module into the switch assembly on 6th gen., 5th gen. have it in the drivers door lock module.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man ALOT of mis information here.

First of all your first picture is nowhere near where the control module is, its merely a picture of the connection between the door harness and the door lock itself, has nothing to do with the lock control module. 99% of these connectors have the same discoloration and its usually caused by the grease they use on it to keep water out. so it is not an indication that this is whats causing your fuse to blow. infact you can probably scrub it right off. however the picture isnt exactly clear so I cant give you a 100% guarantee that its not fried.

for the lock module itself its either going to be a white box behind your drivers side kick panel. it should look like this
or the blue box in the front portion of the drivers door seen here

keyless entry will usually have the former. Also it has nothing to do with your windows to correct what one person said.

the oem radio will have nothing to do with your locks working or not. it only affects your ability to use the keyless entry feature. so you can ditch it.

//////

now for the issue of your locks not working...

try disconnecting 1 component at a time, start by disconnecting the connector for the crivers lock, replace the fuse then try the switch and see if the passenger lock works without blowing the fuse, if the fuse blows plug the drivers lock back in and disconnect the passenger lock and do the same thing.
if it still blows with both of those try disconnecting the passenger door harness from the floor harness and try again.
you cant do the same test with the drivers door because the lock switch is on that harness. but iff the fuse still pops with all of those tests you know you have bare wire somewhere and its grounding out. youll simply have to look over all the wiring.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't realize anybody posted here.

Yeah, I know where the power door lock mech SHOULD be - I was just hoping it wsa some place else - I think the one by the kick panel is only on 99/00 - but I could be wrong.

In any event, I don't have the power door lock module.

My guess is the guy bought the door(s) and put the old interior panel on it (which is why I have the switch for it) - though all the cabin wiring harness is probably still there.

In any event, I decided not to worry about it - I only wanted to get keyless entry but it doesn't matter - I don't really feel like spending 40 or 50 bux for the power door lock module - and since I have an aftermarket radio installed I'd have to do that "OEM radio in dash" bullshit to get it to work.

I guess now my only M.O. is to re-wire the dome light so it turns on when I open the door now that the radio's been removed.

Anybody have the write-up for that?

later down the line - if I get some free $, I'll pop the power door lock module in w/ the whole door harness.

arquin17

Excuse me friend since I see that it handles the issue of more alarms well there is a way that my generic alarm works with the original actuators of the car since I do not have the original alarm or the modules that go on the doors I would appreciate any help