Go Back   Honda-Tech > Honda and Acura Model-Specific Technical Forums > Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Welcome to Honda-Tech!
Welcome to Honda-Tech.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Honda-Tech community today!


Reply
 
 
 
submit to reddit
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-27-2007, 08:03 PM   #1
JDM_DC4_Fanatic
Honda-Tech Member
1993 Honda Civic
 
JDM_DC4_Fanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reppin The 905
Posts: 1,260
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default DIY - Rotor Over Hub Conversion - NOW COMPLETE - 56K take a snooze

I just finished my Rotor-Over-Hub Conversion today, and I took pics along the way, so I figured I would share it with you guys, and maybe help some people out. I also noted that in the Guide to Basic Accords, the R-O-H conversion link is actually from accordingly done, which I think is an insult to us H-T guys. We can have our own DIY's.

Before I begin the process, I will list out the tools and parts you need to get the job done.

Tools:
Proper sized socket to remove lug nuts (usually 19mm, unless aftermarket)
10mm 12 point socket - Wheel bearing bolts
17mm Socket - Caliper bolts, ball joints, tie rod end, caliper bracket bolts
10mm 6 point socket - upper ball joint nut cover, ABS wire bracket bolts, Brake line bracket bolts
14mm Socket - Brake line to caliper bolt (optional)
Torque wrench - same size drive as sockets
36mm socket - Axel nut
48Oz Hammer - Separate ball joints
pliers - To remove cotter pins

Parts:
1998 Acura 2.3CL Front Hubs OEM part # - 44600-YS8-A00
1998 Acura 2.3CL Front Rotors OEM Part # - 45251-S84-A01
1990-1998 Accord Front wheel bearing OEM Part # - 44200-SM1-008
1990-1998 Accord Front brake pads OEM Part # - 45022-SY8-A01
New cotter pins

Step 1:
Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 2:
The first thing I like to do is loosen the axel nut. You will need a 36mm socket, and an Impact gun(preferred) or a breaker bar, and a long pipe for extra leverage.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 3:
using pliers, remove the cotter pins in the tie rod and lower ball joint. Using a 17mm socket or wrench (socket preferred), loosen the castle nuts on the lower ball joint, and tie rod end. Once he castle nuts are loose, whack the knuckle with a hammer perpendicular to the studs. Note* Ball joints and tie rods are taper fit, always hit the knuckle, not the stud itself or you will ruin the threads. Once the tie rod end is loose, remove the castle nut, and remove the tie rod from the knuckle assembly. Leave the lower ball joint loose, but in place for the time being.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 4:
Using the 10mm 6 point socket, remove the upper ball joint cover (2 bolts), Brake line bracket (2 bolts) and if applicable, the ABS sensor wire bracket (2 bolts)
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 5:
With the upper ball joint cover removed, remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut like on the lower ball joint, and whack it free, but still leave it loosely in place.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 6:
You can either unbolt the caliper and caliper bracket assembly, and swing it aside, OR, you can undo the brake line bolt and leave the bracket and caliper on the knuckle. I recommend to simply remove the caliper and bracket, and swing it aside. Note* If you do decide to unbolt the brake line, be sure to bleed the brakes when it is reattached.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 7:
Remove the castle nut on the upper ball joint, and separate the top of the knuckle from the upper control arm. Remove the axel nut and tilt the knuckle forward and remove the axel from the bearing/hub assembly. Remove the castle nut on the lower ball joint, and lift the knuckle out.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 8:
Using the 10mm 12 point socket, remove the 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the wheel bearing in place. If you undid the brake line and left the caliper and bracket on the knuckle, now is the time to remove it.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 9:
Get your wheel bearing and your new front hub, pictured here:
Click the image to open in full size.

Step 10:
I did this at work, so I have access to a press, if you don't have a press, most garages or machine shops will have one, and should press it for a minimal fee.
It will look something like this.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

The finished product should look like this.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here are the finishing steps in order.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.


Modified by JDM_DC4_Fanatic at 7:30 PM 7/3/2007


Modified by JDM_DC4_Fanatic at 7:32 PM 7/3/2007


Modified by JDM_DC4_Fanatic at 7:52 PM 7/3/2007
__________________
1993 Milano Red Civic Coupe 5spd swapped
Port and polished Head + IM
9.6:1 CR Building Boost.
JDM_DC4_Fanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2007, 11:45 PM   #2
Honda_Accord
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Honda_Accord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: cedar park, tx, usa
Posts: 891
iTrader Rating: (0)
AwoI Wolf Awol_Wolf
Default Re: DIY - Rotor Over Hub Conversion (JDM_DC4_Fanatic)

very nice , cant wait to see the pics with it to Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1997 accord se 4dr
Honda_Accord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2007, 12:37 PM   #3
TOP END MS
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
TOP END MS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: CT, USA
Posts: 280
iTrader Rating: (0)
Send a message via AIM to TOP END MS
Default

You forgot to mention which hub you got. But im assuming the CL '98?
__________________
AccordRacing - Honda Accord style & performance

Mt Fuji Motorsports - Honda Accord store

TOP END Motorsports - Bring your ride to the next level.
TOP END MS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2007, 05:09 PM   #4
JDM_DC4_Fanatic
Honda-Tech Member
1993 Honda Civic
 
JDM_DC4_Fanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reppin The 905
Posts: 1,260
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (TOP END MS)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TOP END MS
You forgot to mention which hub you got. But im assuming the CL '98?
Corrected, thanks Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1993 Milano Red Civic Coupe 5spd swapped
Port and polished Head + IM
9.6:1 CR Building Boost.
JDM_DC4_Fanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 11:22 AM   #5
LSR 0NE
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
LSR 0NE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Sic Lake
Posts: 164
iTrader Rating: (0)
Luis E Ramirez LSR ONE
Default Re: (JDM_DC4_Fanatic)

What about price? (roughly), and what caliper and bracket did you used?
__________________
Try not, do or do not. There is no try!
LSR 0NE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 06:37 PM   #6
JDM_DC4_Fanatic
Honda-Tech Member
1993 Honda Civic
 
JDM_DC4_Fanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reppin The 905
Posts: 1,260
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (LSR 0NE)

I get shop discount, so each hub cost me $62 and $40 for the bearings. CL Rotors were $40 for both and front pads were $50 for Wagner Thermo quiets. Bringing my total to $194. Now, you may end up paying more for it, everybody gets diffrent prices.

Also, You can re-use your stock bracke calipers, brackets, pads and wheel bearings, However, you can not press out the hub from the bearing without taking the outer race out. So, if you do this swap, you MUST get new wheel bearings. Accord and 98 2.3CL are the same.
__________________
1993 Milano Red Civic Coupe 5spd swapped
Port and polished Head + IM
9.6:1 CR Building Boost.
JDM_DC4_Fanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 08:39 PM   #7
361 accord
Honda-Tech Member
2000 Honda Accord
 
361 accord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: south texas
Posts: 4,041
iTrader Rating: (0)
facebook.com/361accord epictuning
Send a message via AIM to 361 accord
Default Re: (JDM_DC4_Fanatic)

wait, whats the difference, advantage? to a rotor over hub? what is stock coniguration then?
__________________
CG squad member #001
Quote:
Originally Posted by cetcivic View Post
I need my injector serviced
Only female need apply
361 accord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 12:37 AM   #8
SuShiBoiiii
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
SuShiBoiiii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Bay AreA, CA, US
Posts: 3,027
iTrader Rating: (0)
Send a message via AIM to SuShiBoiiii
Default Re: (361 accord)

looks good Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size. pretty much the advantage saving alot of time doing a brake service... Click the image to open in full size. also op shoulda cleaned up them calipers Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
ALL*STAR*DETAIL
SuShiBoiiii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 02:15 AM   #9
dleccord
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
dleccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 590
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default

what kind of grease did you use for two of your 17mm bolts?
__________________
2004 Honda Accord 2.4L EX
1996 Honda Accord 2.2L LX
dleccord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 01:56 PM   #10
JDM_DC4_Fanatic
Honda-Tech Member
1993 Honda Civic
 
JDM_DC4_Fanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reppin The 905
Posts: 1,260
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (dleccord)

For threads I use Anti-sieze compound. for the actuial slider pins on the caliper I used Sil-Glide. Its a synthetic brake lubricant. The blue stuff on the back of the brake pads is Disc Brake Quiet. It never completly dries, so it stays kinda tackey, and its designed to hold the pads to the caliper so they dont make noise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuShiBoiiii
looks good pretty much the advantage saving alot of time doing a brake service... also op shoulda cleaned up them calipers
I actuially ordred new calipers. But I need to get this car on the road, so I didnt really care how rusty they were. The whole car is a pile of rust, but i'm bringing it back to life one bolt at a time. The bodywork is finished, it just needs paint. I think I will make a progress thread, the accord Forum needs more activity Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1993 Milano Red Civic Coupe 5spd swapped
Port and polished Head + IM
9.6:1 CR Building Boost.
JDM_DC4_Fanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 01:59 PM   #11
JDM_DC4_Fanatic
Honda-Tech Member
1993 Honda Civic
 
JDM_DC4_Fanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reppin The 905
Posts: 1,260
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (361 accord)

The original brakes had the hub bolted ontop of the rotor, as you can see in the first pic. There are a few reasons to consider this swap. I did it because I plan to autox the car, and if I need to change rotors, its much easier to do it this way the to sit in the pits and dismantel my whole front suspension just to change a rotor.
__________________
1993 Milano Red Civic Coupe 5spd swapped
Port and polished Head + IM
9.6:1 CR Building Boost.
JDM_DC4_Fanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 02:01 PM   #12
361 accord
Honda-Tech Member
2000 Honda Accord
 
361 accord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: south texas
Posts: 4,041
iTrader Rating: (0)
facebook.com/361accord epictuning
Send a message via AIM to 361 accord
Default Re: (JDM_DC4_Fanatic)

so theres no advantage to a ROH conversion on a slow daily driver then?

good writeup Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
CG squad member #001
Quote:
Originally Posted by cetcivic View Post
I need my injector serviced
Only female need apply
361 accord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 02:10 PM   #13
JDM_DC4_Fanatic
Honda-Tech Member
1993 Honda Civic
 
JDM_DC4_Fanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reppin The 905
Posts: 1,260
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (361 accord)

I wouldent say theres NO advantage, I would say that there is less of a reason.

Pros:
-Easier to change (doesnt require a press, no need to remove axel nut)

Cons:
-Expensive comprared to just changing your rotors.(you probably have to change your rotors atleast 4 times to break even)

Neutral:
-Doesnt increase re-sale value
-Same braking power as OEM set up
__________________
1993 Milano Red Civic Coupe 5spd swapped
Port and polished Head + IM
9.6:1 CR Building Boost.
JDM_DC4_Fanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 05:19 PM   #14
dleccord
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
dleccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 590
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default

where the hell do you live? i mean your suspension has seen better days.
__________________
2004 Honda Accord 2.4L EX
1996 Honda Accord 2.2L LX
dleccord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 05:46 PM   #15
Secret Chimp
Garage is empty, add now
 
Secret Chimp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 135
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (dleccord)

What did you do to the inside of the steering knuckle where the hub mounts up? I know you're supposed to clean the mating surface, but what's that silvery goop? Some kind of grease, or rust remover?
Secret Chimp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2007, 06:27 PM   #16
oem_certified_accord
Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
oem_certified_accord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Driving Slow, Through Your City
Posts: 1,260
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (Secret Chimp)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dleccord
where the hell do you live? i mean your suspension has seen better days.
somebody said it before i did. jdm man this accord screams POR_15
__________________
CD Squad

WhiteOnRice, gen5accstilez, TheMuffinMan, integrated civic
oem_certified_accord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2007, 04:01 AM   #17
TouringAccord
H-T Order of Merit
Garage is empty, add now
 
TouringAccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: somewhere in MI
Posts: 9,168
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default

why are you guys worrying about the look of the suspension, maybe he has other plans for fixing other things as well.

I'm going to guess the car has been sitting for a little due to the rust on the braking surface and the spider webs. Other than that though, not everyone lives in a sunny state that doesn't see winter conditions so rusty bolts and that is normal.

It's a write-up, lets keep it on topic Click the image to open in full size.
TouringAccord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2007, 10:41 AM   #18
dleccord
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
dleccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 590
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default

hey are all the 5th gens like this? how hard would it be to replace only the rotor without this swap?
__________________
2004 Honda Accord 2.4L EX
1996 Honda Accord 2.2L LX
dleccord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2007, 10:55 AM   #19
TouringAccord
H-T Order of Merit
Garage is empty, add now
 
TouringAccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: somewhere in MI
Posts: 9,168
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (dleccord)

yes, all 90-97 Accord are like this.

Pretty much the same steps are involved in replacing just the rotor. You don't always have to remove the knuckle, but you do have to pop the lower balljoint free to remove the axle from the hub, then just set the knuckle back into the lower control arm while you finish the job. Also, since you aren't replacing the hub or bearing, you dont need access to a press. Once the hub/rotor/bearing assembly is out of the car all you have to do is unbolt the rotor from the hub and bolt the new rotor on.

If you have the money to buy the extra part required to to the conversion, I would. Simply because it makes any future rotor changes that much easier.
TouringAccord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2007, 06:01 PM   #20
dleccord
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
dleccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 590
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default

yeah i thought so too. thanks for the write up.

can you just verify one more time that i do not need a press if i were just to replace a warped rotor?

btw, i was curios about what was making your suspension all rusted, not appearance or looks in anway. later.
__________________
2004 Honda Accord 2.4L EX
1996 Honda Accord 2.2L LX
dleccord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2007, 06:23 PM   #21
Fern413
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
Fern413's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 1,292
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (dleccord)

Click the image to open in full size. On the conversion.....im saving up for my 5 lug conversion cuz i jus cant stand my accord's hub rotor setup crap!!!
__________________
Daily Driven 00 Integra GSR F2B QSD FTW TUNED BY WIRED ELECTRONICS
Fern413 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2007, 08:05 PM   #22
JDM_DC4_Fanatic
Honda-Tech Member
1993 Honda Civic
 
JDM_DC4_Fanatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reppin The 905
Posts: 1,260
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (dleccord)

I appreciate everybodys responses.

First off, that silver stuff applied to the hub and threads of all the bolts is Anti Sieze. Just like the name says, its a lubricant and rust inhibitor.

Second, I purchased this car for $500 from a co-worker, who had the car sitting in his driveway for over a year, and it sat in my garage for about 6 months now. I live in canada, so snow is a part of life here. I have some Bilstien shock, and H&R race springs waiting to go in. I have an energy suspension urathane bushing kit waiting to go in and an ST sway bar kit. I am waiting till I get this car on the road before I do any performance modifications. Also, I want to align the car at the same time I do all the suspension stuff, so I need it at work to do that.

As for any further questions about this swap, or pretty much anything car related, feel free to PM me, however, if I hear about how rusty my car is one more time, someone is getting a swift kick in the nuts Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
1993 Milano Red Civic Coupe 5spd swapped
Port and polished Head + IM
9.6:1 CR Building Boost.
JDM_DC4_Fanatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2007, 04:39 AM   #23
TouringAccord
H-T Order of Merit
Garage is empty, add now
 
TouringAccord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: somewhere in MI
Posts: 9,168
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default Re: (dleccord)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dleccord
can you just verify one more time that i do not need a press if i were just to replace a warped rotor?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TouringAccord
...since you aren't replacing the hub or bearing, you dont need access to a press...
The only parts that are pressed together are the hub and bearing. A LOT of people make the mistake of thinking the bearing is pressed into the knuckle or the rotor pressed onto the hub, but neither is the case. The bearing is just bolted to the knuckle but because of rust it can be a real PITA to remove, and the rotor is just bolted to the back of the hub making you remove everything to get to it.
TouringAccord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2007, 07:15 AM   #24
jz98ctr
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
jz98ctr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Death Valley, CT, USA
Posts: 1,988
iTrader Rating: (0)
Default

bump this...good write up
__________________
FS thread - http://www.hondamarketplace.co...17383
jz98ctr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2007, 09:04 AM   #25
LSR 0NE
Honda-Tech Member
Garage is empty, add now
 
LSR 0NE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: The Sic Lake
Posts: 164
iTrader Rating: (0)
Luis E Ramirez LSR ONE
Default Re: (JDM_DC4_Fanatic)

Really nice write up, you answer tons of questions i had!. Am going to try this soon, but I have one more question: are the 98 cl rotors the same size as the accords?
__________________
Try not, do or do not. There is no try!
LSR 0NE is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
 
submit to reddit
Reply

Tags
1998, 98, accord, acura, axel, change, cl, conversion, disc, diy, honda, hub, nut, rotor, size, socket, wheel

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:30 AM.



2008 Copyright, InternetBrands Inc.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Honda and the Honda marquee are registered trademarks of the American Honda Motor Company, Inc. Neither American Honda Motor Company nor its subsidiaries or affiliates shall bear any responsibility for Honda-Tech.com content, comments, or advertising. Honda-Tech.com is not affiliated with American Honda Motor Company in any way. American Honda Motor Company does not sponsor, support, or endorse Honda-Tech.com in any way. Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended or implied.
Emails & Contact Details