livermore

Hello all. I can't figure out a problem I'm having with the front brakes on my 97 accord lx. The brakes and MC were shot when I bought it so I replaced the rotors, pads and of course the MC. The calipers were in good condition and working properly. The pedal still feels soft though and pushes almost all the way to the floor. The car stops great but I can't see this being normal. I bled the system two more times and still the same thing. I have done brakes and master cylinders more times than I can remember and never had this problem. I never owned a honda before so I don't know if this is in fact normal. I thought it might be a push-though brakes system but I doubt it.

Bruce Banner

maybe time to try new lines, only thing left after that is the booster.
I'm kinda suffering something similar in my car, but I haven't gotten to the MC or booster yet.
I'm looking into my lines next.

hondadude

I would try to adjust the brake arm push rod a little bit; 1/2 turn at a time and test drive.
If you get it too tight the master cylinder won't 'release' and the brakes will drag.

livermore

Wow! What a pain this brake job has turned out to be. I took the day off to straighten it all out. I suspected the new mc might be bad but couldn't plug the ports to test it on the car because none of the parts stores near me sell the right size plugs. So for the hell of it I put the old mc back on the car and whad'ya know? Stiff pedal. That's without bleeding the system too. It starts to sink to the floor after 20 sec, but I expected that. Hell, it's the reason I replaced it. At least I know what the problem was. The new mc was made by Tru-Torque. Anyone ever heard of this company??

Bruce Banner

hummm, never heard of it. BUt stick to OEM.

cam22a

I'm in a very similar situation atm. Recently replaced all pads, rotors, bmc and booster. Have bled it a few times but I can still push it all the way to the floor while stopped. It's not easy but it gets there. I also didn't get an oem bmc.

I'm going to try adjusting the booster rod next. Will be interested to see how you go.

livermore

I'll order a Nissin/Adler oem mc online which is what I should have done in the first place instead of trying to get away cheap with these obscure aftermarket companies. Should have known better. I called a couple dealerships this morning because I really don't want to wait a week for the mc but their markup is ridiculous for nissin parts. So I guess I'll just wait.

Bruce Banner

how much u guys paying for the MBC?

livermore

I paid 65 or $70. That was the cheapest price I ever paid for a mc, but it wasn't the cheapest aftermarket mc available. The Nissin is costing me $90 which is a great price for that brand. Usually goes for $120.

cool_junk

You gotta hate Bad New Parts!!! I've had a rash of them lately!!

outlawcry7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bruce Banner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe time to try new lines, only thing left after that is the booster.
I'm kinda suffering something similar in my car, but I haven't gotten to the MC or booster yet.
I'm looking into my lines next.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cant be brake booster. the brake booster gives a hard pedal whenever its failing

Bruce Banner

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by outlawcry7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

cant be brake booster. the brake booster gives a hard pedal whenever its failing</TD></TR></TABLE>
I redid my lines, I think it's the MBC, my car has improved with new lines, but I think the issues is still there,, but masked a bit by the lines.

outlawcry7

did you check the visible rubber seals around the mbc?? its possible there can be a leak there unless the o-rings went bad inside the mbc. the pistons wont have any pressure and will let liquid flow past if theyre bad.