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Old 07-21-2007, 02:12 PM   #51
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Default Re: (BIG T)

you will need to machine the crank pulley but just remove the balance shaft entirely and get the washer from mcmaster-carr
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Old 08-13-2007, 04:26 PM   #52
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Default Re: (randomae)

Quote:
Originally Posted by randomae
well some people have like 12 second h2bs. i guess my question is with the h22 how much porting is safe? essentially, why is this considered the wave of the future as opposed to the k swap, all prices aside.
how much porting? what are you talking about?


The reason this is considered to be the future in opposition to the K swap IS that it's so much cheaper and very fast cars can be made with this combination.

Kseries will always dominate H series in power and speed contests, but H is so much cheaper!
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Old 08-19-2007, 03:19 PM   #53
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Default Re: (ek forever guy)

Went down to my local Napa today, and after a few minutes of searching I found a suitable upper radiator hose for my H2B in my Del Sol.

The Napa part number is 8325, and it was about $15.

Here's what it looks like right from the store:



You can see my mockup wire next to it in the photo above. I determined where to cut it and then sliced it with a razorblade, resulting in this:



Here you can see it just held in the bay:



And here's the final result:





Fitment is perfect once it's cut. And it's way better then the ghetto crap that I had in my car before.
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:55 PM   #54
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Default Re: (Coomer)

that looks like my hose that I cut. it was a 98 accord upper if I remember right
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Old 08-20-2007, 10:22 AM   #55
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thanks for that hose addition
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:28 PM   #56
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Default Re: (ek forever guy)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ek forever guy

I thought it made sense.
130%
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:02 PM   #57
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Default Re: (sauceja)

hey doods, finally decided to make a thread check it out http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2086488
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Old 09-01-2007, 11:16 PM   #58
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Did anyone else have trouble finding a 32" inch 3-rib alternator belt?
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:55 PM   #59
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Default Re: (sauceja)

how about this instead of being lazy and asking someone to think for you,why don't you actually try looking for your answer.



Modified by HondaCivicSiR1 at 8:24 PM 9/19/2007


Modified by HondaCivicSiR1 at 10:28 PM 9/19/2007
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:35 PM   #60
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Default Re: (hondaZvic)

the spacer is too close to the center to accurately set ignition timing.
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:38 PM   #61
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Default Re: (Bense)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bense
the spacer is too close to the center to accurately set ignition timing.
just curious on how you figured that? a timming light doesn't care how close the markings are to the center of rotation....
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:43 PM   #62
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me personally... would make a pointer and make my own timming marks on the crank pulley with the use of a 360* dial template thing
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:43 PM   #63
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Default Re: (88ED8)

I just marked the crank pulley like a Bseries is done.
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Old 09-27-2007, 01:51 PM   #64
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Default Re: (skunked)

^^ did you make a pointer? take a pic so I can see how it looks
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Old 09-27-2007, 02:04 PM   #65
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Default Re: (88ED8)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 88ED8
just curious on how you figured that? a timming light doesn't care how close the markings are to the center of rotation....
True. Ever pull timing off the cam gears?

Our spacer only marks TDC, no 16 Degree mark. You need to use a timing light with advance/retard to set ignition.

The H-series design of looking through that little window little peak has always been difficult.

We do like Skunk does... just set it to TDC and make three marks. One on the crank pulley, another close to the pulley on your block, and another line higher up, inline with the block mark to level your view. Scribe your marks and mark them with a Sharpie. When it wears away, just color the scribe again when you need to use it.
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Old 09-27-2007, 02:19 PM   #66
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Default Re: (Bserious)

and my spacer doesn't have a mark on it.... QSD should hook me up wink wink
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Old 09-27-2007, 02:52 PM   #67
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Default Re: (88ED8)

Well that sucks!

If it's one of our spacers and the timing line is missing, send that sh*t back and we'll get you one that does.

I do take it upon myself personal, me (Seth), to assure certain features are correct per component. But I am only human.
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Old 09-27-2007, 05:56 PM   #68
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Default Re: (Bserious)

now thats some coustomer service

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bserious
send that sh*t back.
but thats allot of work to take out
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:18 PM   #69
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Default Re: (88ED8)

If you can live with it and mark your own line, where ever that may be, use it and wait until the next time you pull it apart. We'll replace any missing the line, whenever that it may be discovered.

This would be the first. I almost want yours just to freesbie through it (literally) at my machinist.
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:22 PM   #70
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Default Re: (Bserious)

hahahaha... take it out! send it back!!

top notch customer service
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:41 PM   #71
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Default Re: (88ED8)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 88ED8
but thats allot of work to take out
With the amount of time and effort you have invested in your project already, I am sure it's nothing.

I pray that engine bay is gonna get painted. So when you pull the combo then pull the old switcheroo and its back together before you ever start rewiring and plumbing lines.
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Old 10-10-2007, 06:02 PM   #72
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Default Re: (702egsi)

Most are using a D-series alternator. Does the D crank pulley work??? HMMM

The back of the block still has to be ground.

Read this thread:
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1638988
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:48 PM   #73
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Default Re: (HondaCivicSiR1)

never seen a D crank pulley used on the H/F crank. Some guys are using the narrower D series alternator pulley on the H series alternator though.
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:48 PM   #74
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Default Re: (HondaCivicSiR1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaCivicSiR1
please can we get some more info on using a d series crank pulley?like does it have to be a after market one or can use a stock one?
all you have to do is bore the d series crank pulley "i did mine on cnc"
i used a H series alt. but with a d series alt. pulley.it tells everything i did with pics
you will just have to hunt for it.
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:53 PM   #75
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Default Re: (1700anddroping)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1700anddroping

all you have to do is bore the d series crank pulley "i did mine on cnc"
i used a H series alt. but with a d series alt. pulley.it tells everything i did with pics
you will just have to hunt for it.
ok i did read what you posted and the question i would really like to know is does it have to be a after market pulley or would a oem work?
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