how to remove inner tie rod on a 94 accord

[jetblack3s]

ok, so i need to remove the inner tie rod on a 94 accord. i am dealing with the driver side. i remove the outer tie rod, but is there special tool i need for our car? how did you guys do it? i order a new one online, there is a washer that comes with it, do i need to install that? and where? it will be helpful if some one have an image to show me.

[The-Kid]

I'm not good with suspension names. But i used a tie rod end remover. I got it at autozone.

[lowered94accord]

yea you have to get a tie rod end remover to get that one out..pretty simple though

[Alpinestar03]

You should always use a ball joint separator. there about 10 bucks at autozone. I just poped mine off a earlier tonite to drop my tranny.

[BoostedH23Accord]

I took a hammer to it and it popped right out.

[soon2bdropped]

guys hes not talking about the tierod end that goes into the knuckle hes talkign about the INNER that goes into the rack an pinion. i've seen it done on a camry before but i forgot exactly..

[BoostedH23Accord]

Ah...

Um it's been a couple of years since I did mine. I want to say that it was just a 17 mm open ended wrench used to break loose the nut and then it just un-screwed. I took the original ones out but made sure the nut wasn't moved very far so I could avoid having to get an alignment right away. Worked out fine for me.

I'd still recommend getting your front end aligned anytime you remove suspension parts. Again I'm going from memory (I'm not as good as I once was...He He) so someone may be able to shed more light on this topic.

[tacosandbeans]

Originally Posted by BoostedH23Accord

Ah...

Um it's been a couple of years since I did mine. I want to say that it was just a 17 mm open ended wrench used to break loose the nut and then it just un-screwed. I took the original ones out but made sure the nut wasn't moved very far so I could avoid having to get an alignment right away. Worked out fine for me.

I'd still recommend getting your front end aligned anytime you remove suspension parts. Again I'm going from memory (I'm not as good as I once was...He He) so someone may be able to shed more light on this topic.

INNER TIE ROD not outer...

i'm wondering the same question

[lazlong]

Originally Posted by jetblack3s

it will be helpful if some one have an image to show me.

http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/...itch=&hidIrno=

I don't know what you guys are talking about, rack-and-pinion doesn't have inner tierods.

[phootbag]

Originally Posted by lazlong

http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/...itch=&hidIrno=

I don't know what you guys are talking about, rack-and-pinion doesn't have inner tierods.

I believe they are talking about part number 1 in the picture to which you posted a link.

[chikin pickle]

You need an inner tie rod tool!!!!!
Run down to autozone and rent one. It's like jumbo deep socket.

Oh, and yes, rack and pinion steering on our accords do have two tie rod halves. They are screwed together and locked with a jam nut. It's how you adjust toe. The outer one has a ball joint in the spindle, and the other side is a threaded shaft in a ball and socket that screws onto the ends of the rack.

[CRZ1]

The washer is bended. You need to unbend the washer first then use a wrench if you have space, or use crowfoot wrench to loose it. You need to use the washer, my understanding is it prevents the end loose.

Phootbag,
Need your help. I have problem to bend the washer after installation. It is very hard for me. Is there a special tool to bend it or I just need more muscle? Can I just use some thread locker for the same purpose as the washer?


jetblack3s,
Why you need to remove the inner side? I just did the driver side and regret due to I can not bend the washer and my problem may not related to it.

[holmesnmanny]

The inner tie-rod is part 1 in that link. When you take off the outer tie-rod make sure you count exactly how many revolutions to take it off, then when you put it back juts recount the revolutions and get it exactly the same. You shouldn't need to get another alignment. The tool you can rent at autozone, it's like a long wrench that has just a plain square box at the end you put in this rod thing that the tool comes with and it reaches the inner tie-rod. You will need to take off part number 25's jam nut first as it holds the inner tie-rod against the outer tie-rod. There is a boot that covers up the inner tie-rod end too you will need to grease up that boot really good before putting it back over the inner tie-rod. There is a ring around both ends of the boot, you will need either a ring separator or just pry it off and when putting the boot back just put a zip tie around each end tight, that's what I did cause i didn't have a ring separator. Also, there is a chance if you have an old oem one that the tool can't get to it so you can turn the wheel to move it out so you have more room. Mine was stripped so I had to use some vice grips to get it off. There's also a ring on the inside of the boot at a hose fitting, the other side of the hose goes to the other inner tie-rod on the other side so that when you turn the wheel air moves freely between both tie-rods.

[1ATony]

You can count the turns to take it off. Another trick is to use a Sharpie or some chalk to mark where it is. This video will show you how to take them off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r39vVO3ceTA

[nus_dogg]

Old thread.

[1ATony]

Originally Posted by nus_dogg

Old thread.

I know, I just added to the post figuring that anyone searching on how to do this on the forum will pull it up and it'll help them out.

[Targa250R]

Originally Posted by holmesnmanny

When you take off the outer tie-rod make sure you count exactly how many revolutions to take it off, then when you put it back juts recount the revolutions and get it exactly the same. You shouldn't need to get another alignment.

That's not really the case. Counting the threads for reinstallation will get it close enough to drive on temporarily, but there is enough manufacturing variance in these parts to throw off the toe to the point where it will chew up the tires in the long term. In addition, if you're replacing inner or outer tie rods due to the joints developing freeplay, the toe is already out of spec.

You should always re-align the wheels any time that you unthread or change the tie rods.

[sl0waccord]

I know this is an old thread, but I just finished this job and it was a pain. The breakdown:
- After jacking up the car and removing the wheel for the side you are going to be working on, break loose the nut that holds the outer tie rod in position. It is easiest to break it loose now rather than having to use vise grips to hold the tie rod why you try to break loose the bolt.
- Remove the cotter pin on the castle nut for the outer tie rod, then remove the castle nut. It is a 17mm.
- Use a tie rod end separator or a hammer to get the outer tie rod disconnected from the steering knuckle.
- Remove the dust boot covering the Inner tie rod. I replaced mine because it the old one was falling apart and they are only $20 from Autozone.
- Now comes the tricky part. There is a crush washer that holds the inner tie rod in place and prevents it from coming unscrewed while driving. THIS WAS A PAIN TO REMOVE! It took me an hour of using a screw driver and a hammer to get the crush fitting straighted out.
- Once the crush fitting is straightened out a 17mm wrench worked for me to get the inner tie rod out.

Repeat to get things back together. The directions are straight forward, but like so many other things with a car there are tight clearances and the crush fitting is a real pain to get straightened out. Dont be afraid to lay into it. It is a good idea to throw some grease on the rack while its exposed.

Just my 2 cents.