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The first thing that I started on was the euro R single runner manifold. This thing by far is the biggest hassle. It requires lots of modification, lots of adapter plates, and lots of attention. I dunno what honda was thinking when they made this thing. Heres what has to be done:
Fuel rail modfication
Throttlebody modification
IACV adapter plate
EGR blockoff plate (or just bolt an unplugged egr switch on there)
Grinding away some material from the IM flange
Blocking off some ports for air injection things
Turning the brake booster hose nipple towards the LHD brake booster
modifying the injector ports
In fact, the only things that is about the same on this and the stock manifold are:
The runners actually line up with cylinder head.
Throttlebody bolt pattern is the same.
I am not gonna use EGR, so I am bypassing that whole system. Finding the EGR lid is a nightmare for this manifold. So I took the holes that lead from the EGR chamber to the runners and blocked them off. I got this sweet gauge thing from home depot that helped out greatly, which told me that the holes were ~6mm. The next size tap is 1/4" which comes out to 6.3500mm. So I used a 1/4-20 tap and corresponding 1/4-20 screws
I picked up some bling stainless steel allen head bolts from home depot as well, and used some aluminum washers to keep it clean. I then used red loctite on the screws and screwed them in place.
Rosko on here sent me an AWESOME IACV adapter that he made. This thing is so nice looking
Now it's time for air injection holes to be blocked off, you can see them here (CROTCH SHOT FTW!!!)
and a closeup here
The holes here are 4mm. I needed to find the proper tap to thread this with, so I found this great wikipedia page here and there is no 4mm tap, but the 10-32 uses a #21 drill bit, which is 4.0386mm. So 10-32 it is.
SET SCREWS!!!!! I <3 these things, they're stainless steel, and they are headless, so you use a hex key to screw them in place. They were cool enough to be my default picture on myspace for a while
Set screws in place with red loctite!
This KMS ENGINEMANAGERMENTFSDFSD egr blockoff plate is pretty nice and clean, but I am gonna flip it over to the clean smooth side and definitely use some of those bling stainless steel allen head button screws once I order them. These black ones are just for test fit FYI: These threads are M8-1.25, I used ones that were 25mm in length.
Weird f20b injector
Partially assembled! You can also get a good view of the brass colored nipples that need to be removed near the throttle body.
You're going to want to remove the large brake booster nipple from the top and drill a hole in this little square block, to move it to the back of the manifold I just drilled a hole and used some JB weld to hold it inplace
I then bought some push nuts from home depot, they were about 87 cents total. I also removed the other nipple from the front of the manifold (near the throttle body) and then tapped these things in there. JB Weld holds them in. You can see these in the final pictures
I ended up needing a IAT sensor, these can be found on our 6th gen accords, here's the part number: 37880-P0A-A02, they go for about $23 from hondapartsdeals.com. (PS: It comes with a fresh o-ring on it already, no need to order a seperate one like i did) Or if you feel like plugging this hole and using one on the intake pipe, you can get a M12-1.5 bolt and plug it
FUEL RAIL:
I ordered the power rev racing fuel rail adapter plate, but it won't work with the F20B fuel rail lol. So turbogixxer sold me a stock h22 fuel rail, that I can use this plate on. I am using bolts from a d16y8 (96-00 civic ex)
INJECTORS:
here's the stock 2stage manifold injector ports.
I started to port them, but then Jdogg said that his euro manifold from a euro type S engine had the same injectors as the f20b. If honda says you can use these injectors in this manifold without modifying, then that's good enough for me. If you don't feel like modifying the ports for your obd1 injectors, you should look into the RDX injectors, an excellent thread can be found here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1871137 The spray pattern on these are much more narrow than the obd1's. Oh, and I'm sure someone is going to say that I should have still modified my ports like the f20b dual runner manifold. Well that manifold is the same as the h22 one, so it has extra room that the older injectors needed, because the spray pattern on these injectors is more narrow, there's still no reason for honda to change the part number on that thing. WERD!
Throttle cable bracket:
Rosko is hooking me up with one of these bad boys:
There's also an alternative ghetto fabulous method. Just get a piece of angle iron or aluminum and drill holes accordingly. Thanks turbogixxer! (ignore the circle, look at the throttle cable bracket he made)
This guy in the h2b thread (i forgot his name) said he got his IM from JUN and they supplied all the adapter plates. Check out that adapter screw/bolt that they use to plug the 2screw IATs into the weird M12-1.25 plug hole.
And here's some diagrams that I ripped from the EDM service manual
Special thanks:
Rosko - CONTACT THIS GUY, HES GOT EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!!!
JDogg
Turbogixxer
2Point6
SoccerKing3000 (you were going to help me spend $115 in extending my fuel hose for the f20b RHD fuel rail, I ended up just buying a h22 fuel rail for $15, but thanks anyways!!!!!)
Ryu (I totally stole your pics from page 127 in the H2B FAQ )
Edit: 20230101_0957 - Reuploading photos that were originally hosted on photobucket.
Re: Euro Intake Manifold Modification Writeup (vinuneuro)
I absolutely love your IACV adapter plate. That thing really is nice. I had one made as well, and while it does the trick, it's not nearly as nice as that. Think you could get him to whip up another for a price?
The other thing I like is the EGR blockoff plate. I was nearing the end of my swap budget (ok, I was way over it already ) so I opted to leave the egr valve in place, unplugged. Need to get me one of those.
Hmm... in retrospect, doing the entire euro r h22 swap seemed to have been easier by comparison .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kinda makes me want to just get a Skunk instead </TD></TR></TABLE>
The skunk2 manifold doesn't make much power over the dual runner, and if it does, it's only in the VERY high rpms.
At least that's what I've read, I could be wrong though.
We need someone to spend there time cranking these out charge more do the mods and re-sale...I am sure some don't mind paying more if it's done properly...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP-net »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We need someone to spend there time cranking these out charge more do the mods and re-sale...I am sure some don't mind paying more if it's done properly... </TD></TR></TABLE>
That IACV will be a tough time clearing the hood. You can see from my pic, you can have the IACV flipped the other way. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, I'm going to need the right IACV. I only have a civic one and I can't flip it over because the nipples hit the TPS Anyone got one for cheap/trade/donation
Re: Euro Intake Manifold Modification Writeup (2point6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take the nipples off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bam!
All that does is run coolant to the IACV so it does not freeze. Not needed for race cars
Re: Euro Intake Manifold Modification Writeup (ESP-net)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP-net »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Curious on the Euro R mani is it the exact same size as the USDM/JDM H22A manifold from head to the farthest part back?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Re: Euro Intake Manifold Modification Writeup (2point6)
hmm are we talking about an 1"-2" shorter? I need atleast by the looks of it for my application about 2" so it would be the same length as the USDM/JDM H22 mani without the IACV in the back...for my application I have about 1/2"+ between TPS and firewall on the stock JDM H22 mani...
04-21-2007, 01:30 PM
Euro Intake Manifold Modification Writeup (European F20B H22A Single runner type S)
) so I opted to leave the egr valve in place, unplugged. Need to get me one of those.
Anyone got one for cheap/trade/donation 