How-To: Replace Timing Belt, Timing Balancer Belt and Water Pump on a F22B1

[MCHAccordLX]

Hey thanks for that! Would you mind telling me where on one of those pictures the VTEC solenoid is? I'm planning to do a F22B1 Headswap on an F22B2 while I change the timing belt and I want to make sure I get all the parts before I have it torn apart. Thanks, if you don't mind.

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[Bruce Banner]

slick post!

[TouringAccord]

Originally Posted by MCHAccordLX

Would you mind telling me where on one of those pictures the VTEC solenoid is?

actually, none of those pictures show the VTEC solenoid. The VTEC solenoid is on the other side of the engine.

If you look in this thread, there are multiple pictures of the VTEC solenoid in the first post...
http://www.accordinglydone.com...11176

for reference, the VTEC solenoid is part #9 in the following diagram...


Hope that helps you.

[TouringAccord]

ok, now... A sponsor from here on H-T read the write-up and said they are going to be adding a Tech Section to their website and would like to include this article if I was interested. Sounds good to me, so my guestion to you guys is...

Are there any other suggestions before I finalize the PDF and send it to them so they can host it on their site? I will add a tool list as previously suggested, just wondering if anyone else has any other suggestions.

Once they have it hosted (probably a couple weeks away, making other changes to their site) they will send me a link to which I will then add to the opening post of this thread.

[MCHAccordLX]

Ah, thanks! And again, really great writeup!

[TouringAccord]

yep, no problem.

Thanks

[JimBlake]

Technically the VTEC solenoid is #11. #9 is the entire VTEC spool valve (including the solenoid).

[TouringAccord]

ah, thanks for clarifying either way, he needs to make sure he gets the whole assembly

also, back on topic

[TouringAccord]

any other suggestions?

I'm thinking about taking some additional pictures of a few things on my F22B1 in the garage. Like a picture of the water pump bolts and that, just to add a little more detail to the write-up before I send the PDF to be hosted.

If anyone has anymore suggestions, let me know. I'm hoping to finish the additional changes and have it email to them by the end of the weekend.

[TouringAccord]

ok, I took some additional pictures on my F22B1, added a general tool list and moved the parts list to the top.

Let me know what you think. I'm currently working on getting the PDF finished so I can send it to be hosted. I'll look pretty much just like this write-up. So if anyone has any suggestions, now is the time.

[TouringAccord]

ok, the PDF is now hosted thanks to Farina Motorsports

It can be found in the Tech section of their website and I've also added a direct link to the first page of this thread.

F22B1 Timing Belt How-To

**If I've already sent this to anyone earlier, please download this one, I have made changes and added pictures**

[soon2bdropped]

1. why do u have to stick a screwdriver or a bolt into the mantaince hole for the rear shaft.. what does the rear shaft do...

2. the one bolt that has the waterpump with the spring loaded.. do u have to take off the spring loaded for the tensioner off or no.. and if no how does that bolt come off if the spring is in the way

3. does the front shaft run to timing belt or balance belt...

4. so the front shaft is what runs the oil pump?

5. how does the balancer work does it sit under the crank and when the crank spin it absorbs the vibration

5. what hapens if u don't align the oil pump housing?

6. the crankshaft seal is it hard 2 change? do u need to really take the whole IM off and headers off to get to it?

7. if balance belt goes bad will it shake the engine so bad it will feels like an earthquake?


thanks if u can answer this.. me and a buddy wants to do it this weekend..

[TouringAccord]

1. That aligns the rear shaft to the correct position. It's not what the rear shaft alone does, it's what the front and rear balance shafts do. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balance_shaft

2. Yes, just remove the spring from the bolt and then remove the bolt with a deep socket or an open end wrench.

3. The front balance shaft is run off the timing balance shaft belt. The timing balance shaft belt is driven off the crank shaft and runs both the front and rear balance shafts.

4. I'm not completely familiar with the oil pump, but I'm pretty sure it's driven off the crank shaft. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.

5a. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balance_shaft

5b. I'm not sure what your asking here. Are you asking what happens if you don't align the timing belt drive pulley mark with the mark on the oil pump housing?

6. I can't remember if the oil seals were replaced or not. I know we didn't remove the intake manifold or the exhaust manifold for what it's worth. But I can't remember if the oil seals were replaced or not, there were also 3 of us working on the car.

7. If the timing balance shaft belt breaks you will most likely experience more than usual vibrations, how much though I'm not sure. Maybe someone that has eliminated the balance shafts can add as to how much vibrations were added.

[Twixle]

What is the purpose of the three marks on the crank pulley?

[TouringAccord]

For use with a timing light to set ignition timing.

[Twixle]

Thanks touring. I used them for that but I couldn't remember if I actually set the timing with them when I replaced the belts. I guess I must have since it runs like a champ.

[TouringAccord]

haha

[steedums]

I love it.

AFAccord, I'd like to see a write up for the 6th gen f23a :-)

[steedums]

So I just did this on my 2001 Accord EX f23a4 5speed manual, and have a few comments/notes/suggestions:

1. Step 11 should include removal of the cast iron motor mount from the block (held on by 3 bolts) after removing the lower cover. This is necessary to get to the water pump later.
2. Step 38 should include installing the cast iron motor mount back onto the block before installing the lower cover. Also, a note to make sure the 6mm bolt is removed (the one holding the timing belt tensioner in place) would be nice.
3. For step 30, I used a 3inch drywall screw, just another option. A helpful tip is to stick the scew/whatever into the slot and rotate the rear balance shaft until the screw goes all the way in.
4. For step 10, I could not obtain this holder device, so I removed the starter and shoved a screwdriver with a rag into the flywheel to make sure the engine did not spin. My impact wrench didnt work, so I ended up getting a swing bar & 10" & 6" extensions with a 5' pipe.
5. I used white out to mark a tooth on the crankshaft gear & the camshaft gear and the timing belt, and then transferred the marks over to the new belt to ensure it lined up. Did the same thing with the balance belt. Just another thing to ensure you're doing things right.
6. I downloaded the electronic service manual and there are 3 pages on the installation that help out a bit. I'd recommend downloading them, or I can email somebody pdf's if somebody would host them.

casualties: 3/8" extension, 1/2 to 3/8" converter (stanley), 3/8 to 1/4 converter, 19mm impact socket (pittburgh). I will replace these with craftsman goods now :-)


Modified by steedums at 1:26 PM 6/3/2007


Modified by steedums at 8:38 PM 6/4/2007


Modified by steedums at 11:49 AM 6/10/2007

[TouringAccord]

first of all, thanks for the suggestions

Originally Posted by steedums

1. Step 11 should include removal of the cast iron motor mount from the block (held on by 3 bolts) after removing the lower cover. This is necessary to get to the water pump later.

After looking back at the pictures I do realize that was removed. I don't even remember removing it but after look at the pictures I see it was removed. I will add this somewhere.

Originally Posted by steedums

2. Step 38 should include installing the cast iron motor mount back onto the block before installing the lower cover.

I will add this somewhere as well, not exactly sure just yet

Originally Posted by steedums

Also, a note to make sure the 6mm bolt is removed (the one holding the timing belt tensioner in place) would be nice.

More than just a note, it has it's own step! Take a look at Step 37

Originally Posted by steedums

5. For step 10, I could not obtain this holder device, so I removed the starter and shoved a screwdriver with a rag into the flywheel to make sure the engine did not spin. My impact wrench didnt work, so I ended up getting a swing bar & 10" & 6" extensions with a 5' pipe.

I can't stress enough on why you shouldn't do it like this. You are risking damage to your tranny housing. I've seen pictures of where people have broken chunks out of the housing doing it this way. DO NOT use this method.

There was a BIG discussion about this years ago here in the Accord forum on why you shouldn't use this method. There was a link I posted with pictures of a damaged tranny housing but I can't find that discussion or the thread with pictures of the damaged tranny housing.

Originally Posted by steedums

6. I downloaded the electronic service manual and there are 3 pages on the installation that help out a bit. I'd recommend downloading them, or I can email somebody pdf's if somebody would host them.

The scanned pages of the factory/Helm manual are not allowed to be posted in any form on the site because they are copy-written.

[steedums]

I know about step 37, now :-p. although I didn't until i found out I was a cover bolt short...

I can agree that putting the screwdriver into the flywheel isnt the best solution, but its what I did. If I did it again, I would buy that "special" tool. I'm glad my notes will help somebody in the future :-)

[Honda_Accord]

steedums, how strong was ur impact gun that did not work?

[TouringAccord]

Originally Posted by steedums

I know about step 37, now :-p. although I didn't until i found out I was a cover bolt short...

haha

Originally Posted by steedums

I can agree that putting the screwdriver into the flywheel isnt the best solution, but its what I did. If I did it again, I would buy that "special" tool.

yes, buy the tool over using that method again. It's better to be safe than sorry.

[steedums]

Originally Posted by Honda_Accord

steedums, how strong was ur impact gun that did not work?

550ft/lb IR impact wrench. I didn't buy the special tool because I had faith in impact tools I was putting almost all my weight (im 160lbs) on the breaker bar at 5 ft, so I'm estimating it was over 700ft/lbs to break the bolt loose.

[BoostedH23Accord]

Mine took 1200 psi from a 1" drive gun. It sounded like a 50 cal. machine gun trying to break loose that bolt.