92honda accord

I have a question on step 28 on the picture when i took this apart there was not a bolt in the spot you have circled. should there be a bolt in that when job is complete

skhell

No.

That is a bolt that you put there to lock the timing belt tensioner while you are doing the balancer belt. After all is done, and the tensionter bolt is tightened, you remove the bolt. You can use any 6mm bolt, like the ones that hold the cover.

skhell

Hi guys!

When I replaced my timing belt, balancers and water pump, I had a small noise only when the engine was hot, it was something like a "wowowowowowo" and it could only be eared on idle. Meanwhile found a user on other forum with the exact same problem, but he also had a whining noise... Just as that user, I replaced the timing and balancer belt, tensors, and water pump by aftermarket parts. That user did the job on a mechanic, and he did the all thing twice to see if the noise disappeared, but nothing... So he asked a Honda mechanic who said that some after market belts tend to shrink with the heat, so he replaced ONLY the timing belt with a original Honda belt and the noise was gone.

I did the same this weekend, and the noise is now gone .

An advice to who have weird noises after replace a timing belt, replace it with a original belt. To who is going to replace it, use original belts, as the price is identical to aftermarket. As to the balancer and tensors, I guess its ok to go aftermarket, as there is a big difference in price here.

AC01R1

i changed the t-belt on my 97 accord 2.2 h22b2 and i didnt line up the front balance shaft. it that a big deal or can i just leave it??

billyrusa

If the balance belt is off time, the engine may run with humming noise at high RPM. The engine may also vibrate. You may stay with the noise and vibration. However, vibration may have harms to the engine and the car.

skhell

I would put it as it should be.

I knew a similar case that caused the exaust manifold to crack due to viabrations...

AC01R1

do i have to line up both balancer pulleys or just the front one?

skhell

Take a look at step 30 and 31.

You lock the rear one with the honda correct tool, bolt, screwdriver or whatever you use, then you align the front one by hand.

TouringAccord

as skhell said above... also, some have said the rear balancer pulley has marks on it. I've been meaning to pull the side cover to take a look and take pictures on my F22B1 block that is sitting on the stand and look but I haven't had time lately to do that.

AC01R1

ok i tore everything down again and set the balancer shafts and put it all back together and it still has a skip but no codes this time. i got a timing light and checked the timing and it is bot 2-3 inch away from the pointer. i loosened the distributor and turned both ways and it didnt move the line. is the timing controlled by the computer?? is there a way to bypass to set timing? i have checked the tdc on the cam and crank 3 times so i know they are right. also something weird i reset the disturbutor in the correct order and it will not run, but i switched the wires to back to the way is was like this.....4...2
1...3 and it runs.

billyrusa

You need to short the Server Check Connector when checking the ignition timing. The Service Check Connector is under the glove box with TWO wires (GRN/BLU and RED). You can simply pull it out and short it with a paper clip. Make sure the engine is already warmed up and the idle speed is right when you checking the ignition timing.

AC01R1

i tore it again and made sure the timing marks were lined up. they were dead on but i noticed the crank pulley marks was 1/4 inch off of the pointer. WTF!! this is my first honda and i like the gas mileage but its beginning to be my last if this keeps up. i hate a fwd engine/trans layout. everything is in the way. i much rather prefer rwd layout plus its easier for drifting. i appreciate all the help from the forum so far!!

skhell

Beware that the crank pulley has two distinct markings, one with one slot and other with three slots, as you can see on the pictures of step 25.

AC01R1

yes i saw that in the post. the one by itself is tdc. i painted it white to check the timing.

skhell

If that is at TDC, what is not at TDC, the cam pulley?

carfolite

Is this the description to follow for the timing belt replacement for a 96 1.6 Civic? If not, is it listed on this site?

skhell

I still have a question about the "rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3-TEETH on the CAMSHAFT". On the following picture, the pulley is at TDC, after rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise 3-TEETH on the CAMSHAFT, the blue dot should be where is red the red mark? Is that it?



Also, the rotating should be done in a continuous move, should be done slowly, is this relevant?

TouringAccord

that is correct, the blue dot would then be where the red ellipse is at.

as for your second question... I don't know if it would matter or not but I just do a slow controlled rotation in one move to rotate 3-teeth on the camshaft. Keep in mind that having the spark plugs removed makes this step easier, not required just a bit easier is all.

skhell

Thanks

TouringAccord

yep, no problem

skhell

If I re-tension a belt that had already done some kms, will it have the same tension as if it was a new one, or will it have more tension?

I have re-tensioned mine, and it started to making some "whining" noise...

TouringAccord

if the belts have stretched at all then the tension has become less and by re-tensioning it you are adding tension to the correct spec.

bobwallace

Thank you.

skhell

That's what I thought . What could have gone wrong?

I guess I will take off the covers and see how is the tension. Just so I can have a reference, how much should the belt deflect in the longer part, between the cam pulley and crank pulley?

carisma45

Can anyone send me the pdf file of the document posted in answer #1.
I tried to access the given link, but it is broken.
my e-mail address is mehmetucar86@gmail.com
Thank you