aftermarket engine build
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aftermarket engine build
is it possible to build my h22 block without oversizing anything and using stock bore? what are the stock piston and rod sizes i can get for high performance? is it possible to boost without resleeving the block?
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Re: aftermarket engine build (rollercosta123)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rollercosta123 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it possible to build my h22 block without oversizing anything and using stock bore? what are the stock piston and rod sizes i can get for high performance? is it possible to boost without resleeving the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can buy standard size high compression pistons (if u want all motor.)
or standard sized flat top/dished pistons for boost.
theres also aftermarket rods that are stronger than oem.
if you want to boost the motor, IMO, re-ring it, and put a new hone on the cylinder walls.
you can buy standard size high compression pistons (if u want all motor.)
or standard sized flat top/dished pistons for boost.
theres also aftermarket rods that are stronger than oem.
if you want to boost the motor, IMO, re-ring it, and put a new hone on the cylinder walls.
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Re: aftermarket engine build (rollercosta123)
it is possible to boost without resleeving but your piston choices will be very limited due to the H22's FRM sleeves. Mahle makes FRM compatible low compression pistons.
Any "regular" forged pistons will require resleeving because the forged pistons will eat up the FRM cylinder walls.
Yes you can build at stock bore without going oversize, but if you're not resleeving I recommend having a machine shop check the cylinders to ensure they're still stock bore and correct shape. You'll probably be better off going 0.5 mm over.
Any "regular" forged pistons will require resleeving because the forged pistons will eat up the FRM cylinder walls.
Yes you can build at stock bore without going oversize, but if you're not resleeving I recommend having a machine shop check the cylinders to ensure they're still stock bore and correct shape. You'll probably be better off going 0.5 mm over.
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