Cleaning IACV, FITV and TB

[locosiete]

took mine apart and TB wasn't too dirty. under the circumstances it was pretty clean. tightened down that white plunger it turned about a good 5 times. before i started i sprayed everywhere i could think of with a intake cleaner and no effect. anyways gasket looked fine except had a little build up where at the top channel but still changed for new one. anyways cleaned it put it back together and jumping rpm seem to have stopped. while i was at it checked the TPS. luckily it was fine. only time will tell since it happened to me randomly, more times than not though. crappy part is before i started anything i thought it was the TPS so i went and got one. so if someone is in need for one i will sell it for $20 here is some before and after pics after

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[d1n0]

Originally Posted by JimBlake

I Don't know your base idle...

The service check system (SCS) connector is the same plug that you jumper when you're reading ECU error codes. Blue plastic plug, 2 wires. I think in a Civic (D16?) it's tucked up between the glovebox & the right kick panel.

When you unplug the electical connector from the IACV, the idle speed will drop. Maybe it'll want to die, so you may need to baby it with the throttle to keep it running. Use the idle air screw so it runs when you let go of the throttle. Then carefully adjust it back down to base rpm.

Part of the problem is when there's idle problems, it's tempting to simply go for the idle air adjust screw, without going thru the proper procedure. If the original problem was a dirty IACV, and someone tried to 'fix' it by just turning the idle screw, or tightening the throttle cable; then it gets all messed up.

im really sorry to ask this, im very new to this forum, but how can i jumper the SCS? can anyone point me in the right direction where i can see it, id really appreciate it, thanks

[GhostAccord]

Originally Posted by d1n0

im really sorry to ask this, im very new to this forum, but how can i jumper the SCS? can anyone point me in the right direction where i can see it, id really appreciate it, thanks

Try reqading this thread. SCS self diagnostics

This DIY is for a Civic but the process and pin location are the same. Dependfing on what car your talkign about 90-97 Accords are similar, you never said what car your working on????

[d1n0]

Originally Posted by GhostAccord

Try reqading this thread. SCS self diagnostics

This DIY is for a Civic but the process and pin location are the same. Dependfing on what car your talkign about 90-97 Accords are similar, you never said what car your working on????

sorry i forgot to mention, its an accord '95, thank for the help

[masterkill455]

hm, on my 96 there is no connector there and the ecu is mounted to the floor on the pass side?

[GhostAccord]

Originally Posted by masterkill455

hm, on my 96 there is no connector there and the ecu is mounted to the floor on the pass side?

Sorry I posted a link to the wrong thread. But I am capable and was able to do a search and find this post that I made over a year ago. Hope this clears things up

Originally Posted by GhostAccord

1.) Locate the blue 2 pin jumper plug. IIRC It is attached to a metal support under the glove box above the passenger's kick pannel.



Once you have found it you can pull it out of the retainer that it is in.



2.) WITH THE CAR OFF, insert either a 2pin connector clip, paper clip, or loop a thin enough piece of wire into both holes on the connector. This will short or close the loop telling the ECU to send the code to the MIL (CEL) on your dash.Basically you want to connect the two contacts together.

3.) Back in the driver's seat, turn the key to the 'ON' position. The CEL light will come on at startup, like normal, but it will then begin to flash.
**By counting the number of flashes, you can decipher the CEL #.
SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second)
LONG flashes are 10's (1 second)

You may have multiple codes, if there are multiple codes there will be a slight pause between the sets of code flashes.

Ex
short...short...short Pause long...long...short...short...short

In this example you would have a code 3 & 23.

[d1n0]

wow, thanks so much for all the help

[masterkill455]

thanks, clears that up, should sticky and or faq that!

[Oh_yea?]

Great info, thanks! Just run into this problem while doing an upgrade on a bigger size T/B and Skunk2 Intake manifold on a H22. Didn't have this problem before the upgrades which is weird but hopefully these tips will take care of it. Thanks once again for the info

[5hift_shop]

very helpful. thanks.

[xfishx]

Originally Posted by mtnwkr

I was having some issues with my car Idling at random spots when In neutral. When I would push in the clutch or throw it in neutral it would drop to 1000 rpms, and sometimes bounce back up to 1200-1500 and stay there, and other times it would drop back to 750 where it should be. I also had a pretty consistant miss at idle that I thought was unrelated, but cleaning the two valves solved that too.
The whole process took me about an hour and I'm more than pleased with the results.

First thing is to get a mocha from the cute coffee girl down the road. Take off your intake, and strut bar if you have one. Those will just get in your way and make the job harder. Be careful of the cruse control cable while you are working in that area, you don't want to kink it or bend it.



With those out of the way you can easily access the three 10mm bolts holding the fitv on.



Go ahead and pull it down, no need to remove the hose. There are three little rubber o-rings, you can see in my pic that one was left stuck to the bottom of the t/b, make sure they are all seated properly before re-installing.

On the end of the fitv there is a brass plate with two 8mm bolts holding it on. remove that plate.



underneath that plate is the white valve body that comes loose and causes the vacuum leak that causes your idle to hunt.



You can see in the pic that on both sides there is a little notch for a screwdriver for tightening it up. I just used a small flathead to spin it. Mine spun about one and a half rotations before it was nice and tight. Thats it here, nothing to clean. re-install the plate, wrap it in a small towel to keep it clean, and set it aside for now.

Next is the IAVC. With everything removed so far its pretty simple to get off. First unclip the harness. Then on the back side of it there is two 12mm bolts. The longer one is on the bottom. Remove the bolts first, then remove the two coolant hoses. I was able to pinch the clips and slide them down with my fingertips, but a pair of needle nose pliers might be needed for some. The hoses came off easily.
In the pic you can see all the crap clogging the screen, and the body filled with black buildup. Thats what you need to clean.



With it completely removed from the car, remove the rubber gasket so it doesn't swell from the cleaner. Fill it up with carb cleaner and let it sit for a minute. spray it out and repeat a few times. When mine was done the screen looked shiny new and the valve inside was white and clean as snow.



Now while you wait for it to dry grab an old toothbrush and your carb cleaner and clean your throttle body. Hold the butterfly open, spray it all down and scrub both sides with the toothbrush. clean the whole thing out well using copious amounts of carb cleaner to break up the deposits and rinse them out. There are two little holes that lead off to the IAVC and the FITV, spray those clean also.



Now re-install everything, reset you ecu so it can learn any changes you've made by cleaning up the idle, and enjoy how smooth your machine runs.

How do i reset y ECU?

[accord_raffi]

either disconnect your battery for ten minutes or disconnect your ecu.

[dfoster_101]

ok so fairly new on this site i have a 91 lude with a b21a1 & 200k miles and has a bad case of the surge also when im really low like 3 gallons of gas in the tank when i go to take off sorta rev down like theres no power then it will lunge then do it a gain an determined amount of times til i get up in gears .. does it worse the less gas i have in the tank is this normal ive jut never experienced this sorta thing before .. anyways ive been reading like crazy on this site and many others on what to do about my surging idle problem and i still cant fix my idle problems ... i have about a 800-1000 rpm surge from 1100 up to 2000 rpms.. sometimes a little more and sometimes a little less than that... uses to chill it out when id turn on the air conditioner and or the heater but now neither has any affect on it.. also its surgin when its HOT or COLD like immediately after i start it for the first time in the morning after sitting for many hours or all night or whatever, if i start the car cold but dont give it any throttle it stays steady at a little more than about 2000 rpms but if i give it throttle it disturbs the idle and starts surging also its a little harder than usual to get it to start here n there like itll fire but die and then i have to pump it a cpl times and then itll start better probably would if i just let it crank but to get it to start faster i have to give it a little coaxing but his problem isnt a regular thing just once in awhile but is a new symptom than the actuall surge ... the surge seems to get a little worse as it gets warmer but its a very negligible amount if any... ive cleaned out my fitv and my iacv and made sure ive gotten all the air out of the system but havent cured the problem yet ,, also i cant find any vacume leaks when i spray carb cleaner around but i dunno how goo a job im doing at that part lol... car feels like it has a little more power than before tho but still has the surge... im thinking i have one or more of the following ... a bad intake manifold gasket , clogged egr and or egr ports,, ??? what do you guys think ?
i should note however that before the surge problem over the winter i would over heat at idle once in awhile like only a few times all winter (was brutal cold here all winter) but would only last a min and then i wouldnt see it happen again for a month or so... but then it started happening with more frequency and then the idle became high all the time like about 1100 (about 1500 cold til it warmed up then steady at about 1100) then a short time later the surge problem came along ... then i cleaned out the fitv and iacv and flushed and bleed the coolin system no more over heats since but still surgin on the regular like id said hot or cold ... and i havent gotten around to gettin the egr ports or egr cleaned out cause some genius jb welded the tops of the egr ports closed and the egr i cant get off cause the inside both is a major pita to get a socket or wrench onto as in i cant do it so figure id just remove the intake manifold off but i dont realy know enuff to attempt it myself and no one seems to be able to find time or whatever to help me do it ;{
man what the hell is up with all that ... if anyone can help me id owe you for life lol hehe for real tho i gotta get this taken car im totally hating my car atm and ready to part it out over this not to mention its grinding effects its having on my ears its really uncomfortable sittin next to or in ear shot of cops ... ;{

[jays0no6]

Thanks a lot for the writeup.
Really made a difference.

[BoBaFreak]

I tried this process on my 92 honda civic. My idle even when warmed up would jump from 1000 to 2000 even after a stop and the car was in park or at a light in first gear parked with my foot on the clutch. I took the icav apart but did not disconnect the to lines because they were stuck. So as I was spraying it with carb cleaner I decided to put the icav upside and spray it so it won't go down the 2 lines. The filter screen after cleaning it it was nice and silver.

So after that I went and opened the throttle and sprayed inside the throttle body. And took a tooth brush and scrubed away. I was thinking to myself what about the build up inside wouldn't it go into the engine internals and wouldn't that not be good? Well after spraying inside the tb I installed everything and reset the ecu and started the car it took a few turns and me accelerating on the gas and it started.

The car started smoking and the car was bogging and idling at 200. I let it sit for about 15 min it still was at 200 when I accelerated it would go back to 200 and then die. My friend said I coulve fave messed up the spark plugs. He said that if I let it warm up and burn out the carb cleaner it'll go back to normal.

Well it now idles at 1300 and it stays that way. Then I shut the car off started back up and my idle was at 200 again and then it gradually shoots up to 1300 after I step on the gas to rev it. Every now and then it'll go back to 200 and it'll stay there almost to the point till it seems like its about to die. Did I add to much carb cleaner in the tb? Maybe replace the spark plugs?

[GhostAccord]

Have you checked the spark plugs to see what they look like? If they are fouled, then yes, I would suggest replacing them.