killerpenguin21

so what are your opinions? y8? z6?

advantages of any over the other?

i have a 96 ex that im putting a built ls/v in, but ill then have a single cam sitting around so hey why not boost it...
thanks!

.Radical_Edward.

A Non-VTEC SOHC will be more straight forward when it comes to tuning it, but they all pretty close as far as hp and TQ numbers

LiL_Shaun

i believe that the y8 head flows a tad bit better than the z6

but the z6 has a better flowing oil pump (y8's tend to spin bearings cuz of their oil pump)

but if you have the single cam already, why are you asking what our opinions are? r u gonna buy a z6 or y8 if you find one is better than the other? not tryna be an *** but your post doesnt make much sense

Syndacate

Y8s's get roasted easily for some reason, oil doesn't get to the crank or something...iono, tend to spin bearings or throw rods on boost tho... I don't deal with 'em much so I can't really tell ya from exp, only few occasions...

Anyways, Z6 is OBD-I, that's less emissions, less stupid & pointless sensors, and you can chip the P28 ECU and leave it like that.

Z6 FTW

EJgsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LiL_Shaun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i believe that the y8 head flows a tad bit better than the z6

but the z6 has a better flowing oil pump (y8's tend to spin bearings cuz of their oil pump)

but if you have the single cam already, why are you asking what our opinions are? r u gonna buy a z6 or y8 if you find one is better than the other? not tryna be an *** but your post doesnt make much sense

</TD></TR></TABLE>


they have the same oil pump...

killerpenguin21

i mean as far as the head/block/mani combos i keep reading about.

what is the code of th eone i have? y8?

im thinking about just throwing arp head studs in and trying some boost....

Traymack1

Whatever single cam u gots if u gonna boost just boost dat bitch and stop asking questions like dat. Like the other guy said it dosn't make sense.

Libertariat

Z6 mang. Low levels of boost will be fine for any SOHC. But if you have any serious goals, go Z6 like Syn. said.

HonDelso

boost doesn't really matter to me. well at least to myself. boost what you got. i seen some quick non-v's spank z6's. why waste more money when you probably have a decent motor in there.

jesimmers

They are different oil pumps, and different prices new from honda, Y8 is like $80 and a Z6 is $130.

s_vares

SAME PUMP, DIFF. PART NUMBER AND PRICE
are you guys new to the honda world.
none of honda engines are prone to "spinning" bearings.

jesimmers

new to the Honda world? do your homework

killerpenguin21

well its a risk until i pulli t apart ad inspect it...it has 1705k miles on it

blueb16-em1

i know a guy with a boosted y8 that runs low 13's

Syndacate

Wow, 1.7 million miles. That's a rec, I say it's time to trade it in though.

Under boost the Y8's tend to throw more rods and spin more bearings. Why? I don't know. Do I care why? Absolutely not. Is it true? Definitely.

No, different part number = different part. You say "new to the honda world" but if you were old to the honda world as the case may be then you'd know that if any cars used the same part, they'd DEFINITELY have the same part #. There's tons of parts like the prop valve that have the same part # b/c they're the same part. Guarantee if you rip both those oil pumps apart, there's a difference somewhere.

Horrible idea. You don't want to start at studs. Like I said, if you plan on throwing more than 200whp through it (that's approx 8-12 psi) then you're going to need to get forged internals. Some pple run 220 or so at the wheels and are fine. The majority of pple that use forced induction (turbos) use 200whp as a "safe zone" for D16's on stock internals. Assuming compression and leakdown tests are good 200whp is a safe # (assuming as well that its' tuned).

The most important part of a turbo build is the tune. You can throw a rod at 5psi if it's not tuned, tons of wear on the engine believe it or not.

So your first objective is to set a wheel horsepower goal. After that is set, you can get help on what you'd need. Like I said, if you only wanna boost to 200whp or so you can use stock internals, studs, etc. (that's why it's a good # to boost to, good as a daily driver and has nice power...as for the power, just think that a D16 has around 105 at the wheels and a B16 has about 130 at the wheels...so there's your comparison as to how 200whp is like, nice daily driver, pleanty of pep.) and it'll be cheap, and good, and everything'll be peachy. Won't even need to take out the engine.

So tell us what u want out of it and we can help you get there.

Yeah I'm inclined to agree. If you have one, Z6 or Y8, just boost that, don't worry about which one it is and which one's better, as for searching for one...just use whatever you can find, cheap, in good condition.

When you're dealing with practical numbers it really doesn't make any difference. He's not gonna need VTEC killer cam shafts to boost to 200whp. I definitely see where you are as VTEC systems have "2 stages" of tuning (one for each cam profile) but when ur dealing with SOHC it's usually not a 1000whp tune.

in general
I know it sounded like I was ******* the Y8, but I wasn't.

True, in my experience the Y8's tend to throw more rods and spin more bearings than the Z6 (both being tuned). Though that's just more static numbers than anything else. If you find a Z6, take it, if you find a Y8, take it. Like I said, depends on your whp goals. There's a dude crawling around here that's got a 450whp Y8 (off spray), so that kinda flattens the whole "Y8's suck for boost" line. I say go with the Z6 anyways, it seems to be more stable for boost and since it's OBD-I and doesn't (by numbers of general experience) throw as many rods/spin as many baerings so it's less **** to worry about.

On the flipside, a Y8's almost guaranteed to have less miles therefore being a healthier engine due to it being newer.

Usually you wanna replace the headgasket anyways before you boost, so you don't fry it right off the bat, but that's a different story.

So, in conclusion

- What do you have now?

- What are your whp goals?

- What is the application? (daily driver, weekend driver, drag race, etc.)

- What's your budget for this build?

Answer those and pple can give you more direct help.

killerpenguin21

thanks for that post...and yeah i meant 175k miles lol.

this will be the second engine im building. Not looking to go bulletpoof top of the line, but probably 250-300whp. so ok that means forged internals, figured that anyway.

i have a 96 ej8 (ex coupe) so im guessing thats a y8?

i dont want to go as far as sleeving, would like to keep everything stock in that sens (as far as sleeving, p&p, etc) but just makes the necessary upgrades to handle say 300whp (cam, valve springs, valves?, and forged pistons/rods)

whats the best turbo to get there (i just came from a work of 2.3 turbos...so its hard to convert!), and it will be tuned on crome with an ostrich and wideband. and i will not be buying a pre made kit


Modified by killerpenguin21 at 1:19 PM 12/2/2006

NonovUrbizniz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
No, different part number = different part. You say "new to the honda world" but if you were old to the honda world as the case may be then you'd know that if any cars used the same part, they'd DEFINITELY have the same part #. There's tons of parts like the prop valve that have the same part # b/c they're the same part. Guarantee if you rip both those oil pumps apart, there's a difference somewhere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not to be a dick but that's TOTALLY in correct. There are TONS of interchangable indentical honda parts that have multiple part numbers.

I don't know about the oil pump for sure... but there are DEFINATELY plenty of parts for honda/acura that have completely different part numbers and prices that are 100% interchangable and in many cases identical.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NonovUrbizniz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not to be a dick but that's TOTALLY in correct. There are TONS of interchangable indentical honda parts that have multiple part numbers.

I don't know about the oil pump for sure... but there are DEFINATELY plenty of parts for honda/acura that have completely different part numbers and prices that are 100% interchangable and in many cases identical. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to be a dick but "There are TONS of <u>interchangable</u> indentical honda parts that have multiple part numbers."

Yeah, the JDM D15b cam is interchangeable into a D16Z6, they sure as hell aren't the same though. Just b/c they're interchangeable doesn't make them identical. Also, just because you can't SEE a difference doesn't mean there isn't one. Somebody tore the oil filters apart on a Y8 and a Z6 and found the difference, they posted it someplace, look for it.

Moving on to actually important stuff...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for that post...and yeah i meant 175k miles lol.

this will be the second engine im building. Not looking to go bulletpoof top of the line, but probably 250-300whp. so ok that means forged internals, figured that anyway.

i have a 96 ej8 (ex coupe) so im guessing thats a y8?

i dont want to go as far as sleeving, would like to keep everything stock in that sens (as far as sleeving, p&p, etc) but just makes the necessary upgrades to handle say 300whp (cam, valve springs, valves?, and forged pistons/rods)

whats the best turbo to get there (i just came from a work of 2.3 turbos...so its hard to convert!), and it will be tuned on crome with an ostrich and wideband. and i will not be buying a pre made kit


Modified by killerpenguin21 at 1:19 PM 12/2/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, ur looking at forged internals, you'll probably want studs too. Yeah you have a Y8. You don't need to touch the valve train unless you plan on revving higher. I personally never deal with the valve train, just rev to the stock RPM redline. You'll NEED forged rods/pistons pressed professionally, and head studs, you'd probably want: Low compression piston setup (would probably want to go with shorter connecting rods) and if you wanna wind it out more you need to do some valve train work.

You'll also probably wanna convert to OBD-I since it's better for upgrading because it's easier to tune, then simply run a chipped P28 with a custom dyno basemap.

As for the best turbo, post that in the forced induction forum, tell them your use of it and how much power you're looking to make, they can probably tell you best.

gsrhatch3383

just boost it do you have a kit yet


14b mitsu with injectors

LiL_Shaun

the oil pumps are different, ill leave it at that...go ahead and dont believe me, go turbo a z6 and a y8 and when the y8 spings a bearing due to it dont bitch about it...although if it ever does happen im sure you will try and blame it on something else just so u dont have to face the fact that your wrong

as for the original poster, i suggest you post this on turbod16.com where theres alot more people who know what their talking about when it comes to turboing a d-series...its hard to get any decent info about a d series on a forum that is mostly bias to B series motors...im surprised some1 didnt say "just swap another B series in it"...