elrey4e

I am thinking of f20b swap for my 98 Accord DX (non-Vtec). I currently have the OBD2 ECU and an immobilizer switch in the ignition. So the Key and the ECU must have the same code to start the car. When I get the swap it will have an ECU for the f20. What is the easiest and cheapest way around the immobilizer on my car. It looks like from all the wiring schematics I have seen the unit is located in the steering colum. What is the best fix for this?

elrey4e
98 Accord

Cannon Man

The f20b is too small for that car. The 6th gen is the heaviest of all the accord to date and the f23 just barely gets the job done. I have the f23 vtec ulev and couldn't imagine goin with anything with a lower displacement

elrey4e

Just so you know a couple of things about the f20b motor. 1 it has 200 hp the ulvec f23a3 has some where around 150 hp. The torque difference is about 7 ft/lbs in favor of the f23a3. So before you say a smaller displacement is a bad idea give it some thought. The H22 is smaller displacement and actually has about 9 ft/lbs of torque more than the f23. Now my last bit of proof will be at the race track the best I have ever run in my non-vtec Accord 15.78 s 1/4 mile. Oh also check out the weight of my Accord against yours, mine weights 2880 lbs acording to Honda.
Now if you can melp me on my immobilizer problem I would greatly appreciate it

Thanks for the thought though

YeuEmMaiMai

i would not put a 2 liter motor into a car that weighs in at 3K lbs. H22 is smallest engine I would consider.

npcanibus3

as long the stock f20b ecu does not have an immbolizer chip on it, then you are good to go.

I have to agree with the rest.. say no to the f20b man. That's peak power you are looking at, what ever happened to looking at the powerband?