duct-tape

Yes, the gasket that i had to replace on both of the cars was the one that goes between the Intake Manifold and the head. in both of the cases there was a little piece of the gasket missing and i could hear the hissing sound from that area, however i coul not see exactly where it was, so i would run my hand over that area and when the hissing subsided i knew where the vacuum leak was. another indicator that helped me identify the location of the leak was i tried spraying some carb cleaner on the gasket (IM/head) seam and for a short period of time the rpm's dropped back to normal.

Hondaowner9

Thanks for the advice.

The gasket you refer to is the #14 in the following manifold diagram -
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...NIFOLD+%281%29



not the #4 in the following TB diagram, is that right?
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=THROTTLE+BODY

pmrider

When taking off the IACV to clean it, can I disconnect the hoses w/ out having to worry about fluids draining out or air getting into the system

GhostAccord

You will loose a little bit of fluid, not that much if you keep the lines face up and as high as can be. You will only loose the coolant that is in the IACV itself. Don't disconnect the hoses and face them down toward the ground or gravity will ensure you loose more. It is always better to bleed the system after opening any coolant hose. Better safe than sorry. Only takes a few minutes to bleed the system

pmrider

ok- thanks-- I am a little confused on how to bleed the system though? also where is the bleed valve?

GhostAccord

Sorry I sould have mentioned that you don't have to disconnect the coolant lines if all your doing is cleaning the IAC valve. You can unbolt it and flush it with carb cleaner while it's still attached to the coolant lines. If you can situate the IACV and give yourself enough room. It should enable you to get the carb cleaner spray straw in for a good cleaning shot. A drip pan or cloth under the back side of the engine will catch the carbon filled crap that spills out.

If you still want the coolant bleed proceedure PM me your email address and I'll send it too you.

needmorempg

I just fixed the problem you are having with the ilde on my 90 honda accord. It just started varying the idle in park or neutral but ran fine in gear. When I pulled of the FITV or the valve to check it, it was completely plugged with sediment from the cooling system. I just cleaned it out, stuck it back on, and poof...problem gone. If the coolant doesnt' flow to it, it can't possible tell what temperature the engine is at. I would pull it off when car is cold so you don't get sprayed with hot coolant, although only a few drips came out.

it'll take you a 10mm socket, removing 3 10mm bolts, to get it off. easy stuff.

This may or may not be the cause, but it costs nothing to check and about 10 minutes of time.

Good Luck

.coolguy

weird

honda_tuner20

i am having a idle problem myself can someone help me

craddock01

Its located on your throttle body look for two small coolant lines about 5/8 inch one goes in one comes out about arms lenghth standing in front of vehicle right in the middle off the throttle Body
I think we're getting two different components confused here the coolant lines on this body thats being removed heats up a little sensor that controls your high idle some sort of wax is inside it the IACV is also in this body that gets removed the carb cleaner that needs to be used is to be sprayed on the screen that is about 1 inch diameter that gets clogged with engine carbon if the small coolant lines are clogged they would affect the high/low idle sensor that is inside the body an erratic idle is usually the screen that needs cleaned and its easier to reove the coolant lines to do it but not neccessary.Also never remove bolts from aluminum threads until completely cool or you risk stripping out the threads.

LandHard

I've had similar problems with my 93 accord. the problem with it not starting occasionally, but if i wait a few minutes it will start. this usually happens if i drive a really short distance (like to the store), turn it off, then try to start it a couple of minutes later and it doesn't start but its turning over fine.

the other problem is the erratic surging, that a mechanic told me it was most likely the IAC valve. the thing is, the surging only happens when the weather outside gets below 65 degrees. so the colder it gets, the worse the surging gets. i live in florida, so i have not had to deal with this for almost 6 months, but the weather is starting to cool off a little and i can tell it's starting again. the mechanic told me there's a way to bypass the iac, the part itself is really expensive, but i have not seen a guide on here that says anything about bypassing.

does this work?

Lloyd Xmas

Ok, I was having the same problems with the weird idle. I sprayed a little carb cleaner as directed on page 1 on IACV and now the car will not start. It turns over and will start with starting fluid but not on its own. Does anyone have any ideas?

Nonio

Hi everyone.

I´m having the exact same problem here with my 1992 Accord EX.

Idle doesn´t quite seem to stabilize, I´ve seen it go crazy on occasion before, it seems to be leaking coolant even though the leak isn´t nowhere in sight and it also sometimes just won´t start ... then after a few attempts it does start.

H-E-L-P ! Where to look first ?

Also, I had the Throttle Position Sensor replaced sometime ago ... was this a bad move ? I heard from someone that it should have never been touched as it needs precision equipment to be propperly calibrated ... what now ?

Thanks

92workhorse

Hello

just reading this forum and sounds like a lot of expirence here. I have a 92 accord w/ 225,000 miles. here in the last 5,000 miles it has developed a vibration in the steering wheel. I have checked the tires and the front wheels while on the lift for any play. no luck. Engine idles a little low and think i am going to go clean the IAC screen. I have tried to hook up the code reader but can't find it on my car? Not sure were else to look and how to check for bad wear for vibration. car has been good to me up to this point and i don't want to have to get rid of it? Not usre if there is some thing that may notoriously wear out ?

Thanks for any help

Nonio

Whatever you do DON´T get rid of that one. They´re good cars.

What you´re looking for is a blue connector. It´s located in front of passenger´s sear, near where the passenger´s feet sit.

To access it you must first remove the plactic pannel that shows when you open the door to get in and then the other plastic pannel that´s next to it, underneath the glove box.

Then you should see the blue connector. Find a piece of thin wire, hook it up and turn the ignition key but don´t start the engine.

If there are any errors they flash on the pannel, on the ECU light.

Dennis Anderson

The 90-93 Accords have an idle boost valve on the left (drivers side) of the intake plenum nearest the brake master cylinder. It lets air into the intake when you start the car. As soon as the car starts vacuum closes the valve. The diaphragm rots over time and develops a leak. The vacuum at idle is insufficient to close the valve, so the idle jumps up to between 1000-3000 rpm, depending on how big the hole in the diaphragm is. This increases the vacuum enough to overcome the leak in the diaphragm and the valve closes. As soon as the idle drops the process starts all over again. Everyone seems to blame the IACV, but that only has a range of 400 RPM or they blame the fast idle valve. They overlook the boost valve because it has no vacuum hoses or wires going to it. Just pull the boost valve off (2 screws) and put a piece of duct tape under it to cover the 1/2 inch hole in the plenum. Then replace the valve. If this fixes the problem the valve is about $90 at the dealer or you can just run it with the duct tape in place.

dylanashultz

I have the surging problems too. Ill clean it tomorrow and let you guys know whats happening. I have the starting issue as well ill let u know if i get that fixxed as well

dylanashultz

I took off my iacv and the screen looked like someone packed it full of carbon. I bet only 2% air was flowing thru it. I sprayed it full of tbc waited 15 min poured it out and kept doin it untill it was clear instead of black. I no longer have the idle issue or the starting issue so it dosent hurt to take those two bolts out to clean it

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

You can also buy those screens for $7 in case you screw one up like I did.

dylanashultz

Well it didnt last long. Its jumpy again

dylanashultz

I took the iacv off again to see if a pice of carbon came off the intake and got stuck on the screen but there wasnt anything on there. n the morning im goin to the auto part store im gonna buy a new iacv timv and im gonna figure out what this problome is. Its really bothering me. So ill let you all know what happends.

holmesnmanny

It's very easy to damage the iacv when you spray carb cleaner into the valve while it's still warm or hot as the carb cleaner will make the inner seals expand which will ruin the valve. It's best to just clean out the screen. If you're gonna try to clean the inside of the valve it's best to do it when the valve is completely cooled down AND only spray enough that you can dump out in a few seconds.

90hf1.5red

Dennis Anderson

azkitch

As for the several people mentioning the intermittent not starting problem, that frequently is the igniter unit housed in the distributor. A bit costly, but easy to replace. I tried to find one at a junkyard ('scuse me...auto salvage yard/used parts emporium!), but nearly all the distributors were gone, and the few that were there were missing the ignitor assy...
Hopefully I'll be able to adjust/fix the idle problem on my '93 soon. The idle drops off to nearly nuttin', and the oil light comes on. I broke the timing belt halfway between Phoenix and Tucson (to be referred to from here on as "Tuxon"), and I've since figured out that the guys that fixed it have the timing belt too tight...a year later, and the belt whine is still bugging he** out of me...I'm starting to think they muffed the front seal too, cuz she's hemorrhaging oil. I changed the oil pan gasket this week end, but doesn't look any better...
I'd better go find the new users forum. I'm glad I found you guys...I've been having a heckuva time finding the IACV..