raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

so what do people mean by "build it right" when you are using stock unmodified bottom end for b20vtec?

there seems to be a lot of people using stock b20 block on the forums but I hear this all the time "build it right" what is there to build when ure using stock block?

I wanted to use a stock gsr head with stock cams and set rev limiter at 8000 seems like that's where most people stop with stock block

SUCCULENTBASS

Is there a site I can go to where I can view these pictures? You mentioned Cardomain, are they still visible on there?

blackeg

ive tuned a few stock block lsvtecs over the years and i stopped at 8000 with them. none of them ever spun a rod. even my stock ls's id set the limiter to 7400-7500.

8000 will most likely be fine.. on motor the gsr cams are going to not be making real power above that anyway if itr cams start to drop at 7800-8000. just get yourself a nice tight gear ratio so when u shift at 8000 you can still stay in the vtec pretty good

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

well actually im using 97 itr cams I was just confused about contradicting posts on many boards regarding stock block b20vtec some people swear to take it to 9000 daily others swear that anything above 7200 will explode.. was just trying to see a word from a shop that does a lot of them.

thanks blackeg

delsolpetty

Somebody clear this up. Ive searched and searched . What is the best hg to use on ls vtec .

B18a block and b16 head.

Ive herd ls and ive herd vtec.

Gotta put my head back on tom. So i needa know asap. Thanks

FMN716

I have heard go with the blocks gasket. But like I said I am not sure

Runnerdown

It really comes down to opinion. Mine is to use the vtec gasket.

delsolpetty

Well i had a cometic abd it leaked a little bit. And it was l specifically for lsv

LTCxD2B

Use the gasket for the block

OneBadTurboCRV

For the record I rev my B20V to 9,000 RPM every time I drive it... no failures to date.

I used to only use the VTEC head gaskets for LSV but then one day I took the time to compare each gasket style on the block. Ever since then I always use the gasket that matches the block. All the holes line up MUCH better. Having drain back oil pooling on top of the gasket just isn't my idea of fun LOL.

delsolpetty

I actually like the ls as well. I compared them today. I believe that is what im gonna run on my car. LS . Oh btw this has always confused the crap out of me. ARP HEAD studs, when they said hand tight does that mean run them down with a allen key until it bottoms out( wont turn anymore without force )? Sorry for such a dumb question lol

LTCxD2B

^ pretty much assuming there isn't trash at the bottom stopping u and then back off a 1/4 turn

delsolpetty

So basically screw down w a allen key and turn untill it stops without havjng to break my neck to tighten

Runnerdown

The head gaskets have to be checked on the block as well as the head. The main problem with the fitment of the vtec gasket on the block is a bit of misalignment of the oil drain passages. The oil will still drain fine. Now when you look at the non vtec gasket on the vtec its found that the coolant ports do not align in a few spots. To me I think I think water flow through the head properly is a bit more important than a already generous sized oil drain mis aligned a bit. But like I said previously, it all comes down to opinion.

stevedrum4578

iTrader: (1)

BAMBAM - great original write up. I'm starting my B20/B16A2 Frankenstein this weekend! I'm stoked. Did anyone use a block guard to brace the piston sleeves for added strength?

Eight09

iTrader: (5)

Block guards dont help unless they are machine for YOUR motor. CNCWerx does whats called a cylinder support system, ie a block guard machined to fit perfectly. Its cheaper than sleeving and I believe they guarantee their work up to ~400 (only guarantee sleeves wont crack)

ChrisCoupe1

Have you had your block machined? your bores checked and/or over bored yet? your crank checked for straightness and balanced and aligned if need be yet? only reason I ask is if so then its pretty late in the game to start thinking about putting on a block guard if your ready to assemble already, and installing one on your own may cause deformation to the bore at TDC....if none of that work has been performed it might not be best to at least make sure your rod and piston weights are balanced.

sandman2986

nice write up

Dallas Cropper

I will soon be building an lsvtec set up of my own (LS block /b16 head) to put in my delsol and this gave me a lot of useful info. Happen to have any I suggestions about an itb setup ?

heel_touge

Great thread, it's nice to see some solid time and effort put forth to help educate those in need.

If anyone is interested in a fresh (zero miles) fully built balanced and blueprinted, bulletproof Edelbrock assembled b18b/PR3 LSVTEC for cheaaaaap (they gave me a good deal so I'm paying it forward) shoot me a PM. It comes with a folder full of build sheets specs and reciepts.

stevedrum4578

iTrader: (1)

Chris, I will have all that done, but not yet. I'm still sourcing and buying parts.

ChrisCoupe1

Cool then you have unlimited options to go with to make the build meet your goals.

typeR4u

hey just wondering why do we need to remove the allen plug ?

sethg

So I'm building a lsv with a gsr head I was wondering is arp head stud bolts mandatory I only plan on daily drive this set up n not rev more than 7k but most revs will be around 3k also on ecu how long can I go on a p72 ecu with out tuning on this driving conditions

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No, you don't need arp studs

You can risk running on a stock eco as long as you want to risk it.But I would get it tuned with aftermarket management, regardless of how little you plan to "rev".