bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NAlover &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18a block .20 over
Balance,micropolish,decked.
Wiseco 11.7:1 CR
Eagle Rods
ACL bearings

The shop that built the block told me to use 10w/40 to brake it in for like 10miles then change the oil to 10w/30 to drive it around easy..

"Now for the break in. Try to vary the revs as much as possible, with alot of short blasts. It is very important that you let the engine "brake" itself by just letting off the throttle and letting the vehicle slow down on it's own, while in gear. This creates a vaccum in the cylinder and forces the rings outward, which wears down the peaks in the cylinder's fresh hone. Do this for the first 20 miles"
I've been doing this brake-in way, but I only have 15 miles on the motor, haven't past the rev more than 4500rpm... It don't smoke at all now. I need to get my A/F right ASAP... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I see two problems with your method. The oil you used is "ok", but it would of been better to used solid 30w oil for the initial startup and first 20 minutes of operation. Also, you want to bring the revs up more. You're not creating enough vacuum at 4500 RPM. You don't need to go crazy, but bring it up to 7 to 8k a few times in third gear and let the car slow down on it's own as you have been doing. Of course, I wouldn't recommend this until it's been tuned up to that point. Other than that, congrats!

NAlover

man I really appreciate all the support that your are giving to everybody...
I found a good crome tunner down around my area and tonigh we will street tune my baby...
i wanna do everything right .

DAmnquickDA

Hey quick question. I have a stock 90 integra and a used B16 head. I dont have nearly as much money as most people do when building these motors so i cant shell out 2-3 grand to have it built with every upgrade possible. I prefer to go cheap for now and use my stock bottom end. i know the bottom end is trash and compression will only be about 9:1 but my question is how high can a stock B18A (it has 167K miles) bottom end rev up to? Ive heard 7,500-8,000 and some people tell me they cant go past 7 or the rods will punch through the block. Whatcha say?

bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra130 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey quick question. I have a stock 90 integra and a used B16 head. I dont have nearly as much money as most people do when building these motors so i cant shell out 2-3 grand to have it built with every upgrade possible. I prefer to go cheap for now and use my stock bottom end. i know the bottom end is trash and compression will only be about 9:1 but my question is how high can a stock B18A (it has 167K miles) bottom end rev up to? Ive heard 7,500-8,000 and some people tell me they cant go past 7 or the rods will punch through the block. Whatcha say?</TD></TR></TABLE>

7k. If you spend the 35 dollars to upgrade the rod bolts to ARP's, then 8.5k could be seen, but you wouldn't be making any power there with stock cams and compression anyway.

1320DRAGWORKX

NICE WRITE UP

Youlose1305

Ya this whole build on my ls/vtec has been great.....its taking awhile but im learning so much more for my next build.........really expensive but totally worth it when its done..........

1320DRAGWORKX

oianarchy

this post makes my life a lot easier

r126

Excellent Post

DookNucom

JerkzEm1

Good stuff

vtec4max

can anyone help me out, for no reason i had decide to use the 99 si engine harness and ecu for my set up, am i going to just have to fabricate the crank sensor on my B18A1 bolck? what should and could i do? please help!!!!!!!

SYNSEI

Question:
I finished up tearing my block down. I took a close look at the OEM engine bearings and they still look good (according to my Haynes manual). No signs of wear at all. How important an upgrade are the ACL bearings? Some people here say that OEM Honda bearings are superior. Thanks again for the informative write up.

bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SYNSEI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question:
I finished up tearing my block down. I took a close look at the OEM engine bearings and they still look good (according to my Haynes manual). No signs of wear at all. How important an upgrade are the ACL bearings? Some people here say that OEM Honda bearings are superior. Thanks again for the informative write up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not true. OEM LS/B20 bearings are bi-metal. Tri metal bearings are superior in the fact that they can retain oil better. ACL's=Trimetal. The OEM GSR/CTR/ITR bearings are also trimetal. If ACL's aren't within specs though, you should use OEM.

bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec_avenue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can anyone help me out, for no reason i had decide to use the 99 si engine harness and ecu for my set up, am i going to just have to fabricate the crank sensor on my B18A1 bolck? what should and could i do? please help!!!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

What OBD ecu will you be running? If you will be running an OBD2 ecu, you will just have to run a 96+ Bseries oil pump that has the sensor integrated that's all.

bluetintruben

i just finished putting my ls vtec together, and the wiring is where i suck anyone got any in put on how to wire a 95 ls integra with a p28 ecu. or do i just slice?

DC2 Mang

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluetintruben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just finished putting my ls vtec together, and the wiring is where i suck anyone got any in put on how to wire a 95 ls integra with a p28 ecu. or do i just slice?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the p28 will plug into your car, the only wiring necessary will be for the Vtec pressure sensor, and solenoid signal

Taurine

I've picked up a B18A1 block which is apparently brand new, it's pretty clean on the outside and the pistons are fresh, if it has brand new OEM bearings on the crank is it worth keeping them or should I just upgrade them to something aftermarket?

I need to crack it open to swap over my P30 pistons so I'll see just how 'brand new' this thing is.

bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Taurine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've picked up a B18A1 block which is apparently brand new, it's pretty clean on the outside and the pistons are fresh, if it has brand new OEM bearings on the crank is it worth keeping them or should I just upgrade them to something aftermarket?

I need to crack it open to swap over my P30 pistons so I'll see just how 'brand new' this thing is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd still measure the bearing clearances just to be sure. If ACL's are within spec, use 'em. If not, use OEM LS/B20 bearings. It's simple. Don't trust the previous builder.

oldskool teggy

actually i would use b16 (pr3) bearings on the crank and NOT ls/b20 bearings

bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oldskool teggy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually i would use b16 (pr3) bearings on the crank and NOT ls/b20 bearings</TD></TR></TABLE>

Non-CTR B16 bearings are the same as B18a/b and B20b/z bearings. Same bi-metal design and all; so there's no advantage there. Really.

If you want the advantages of a trimetal bearing, you either run ACL's, or notch for GSR/ITR/CTR bearings.

DC2 Mang

the draw back with OEM tri-metal bearings is that it requires you to re-notch your stock LS rods to accomodate them

DJslepton

I love this thread Is there anyone in here that has a fully built lsv thats making power up to 9k & up? and if so, what cams are you guys using to make such power? I know cam choice are as important when it comes to overall topend performance. My ideal choice at the moment are either sk2 pro1 or m22x w/ 11:5 comp be enuff for these cams? I pretty much got the whole recipe down for a lsv cuz on this thread but it seems that cams is always the last thing cuz there's so many to choose from..so some good info is appreciated

bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DJ $lepton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I love this thread Is there anyone in here that has a fully built lsv thats making power up to 9k & up? and if so, what cams are you guys using to make such power? I know cam choice are as important when it comes to overall topend performance. My ideal choice at the moment are either sk2 pro1 or m22x w/ 11:5 comp be enuff for these cams? I pretty much got the whole recipe down for a lsv cuz on this thread but it seems that cams is always the last thing cuz there's so many to choose from..so some good info is appreciated </TD></TR></TABLE>

it's not all about cam choice. Other factors are equally as important such as bore, stroke, port size/shape, intake manifold design, exhaust design, runner length/width/junction, etc.
Generally, BC4's, S2S2/3's, M22x, Pro1/2/3's, are good for 8500+ in peak power. Like I said, it depends on the rest of the motor too. Personally, I'd recommend either BC4's, M22x, or Pro 1's for a 11.5+ compression 81x89mm LSV, with the BC4's being my favorite. Although i'll admit, it's a biased opinion. I've never personally used the Pro 1's or M22x. I have seen some comparable numbers with them though. In one motor, the M22x will outshine the Pro 1's. In another motor, it will be the opposite.

oldskool teggy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Non-CTR B16 bearings are the same as B18a/b and B20b/z bearings. Same bi-metal design and all; so there's no advantage there. Really.

If you want the advantages of a trimetal bearing, you either run ACL's, or notch for GSR/ITR/CTR bearings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you sure? the rod bearings are not pr4 bearings they are pr3 on the box.. I think they are tri-metal. and they spin to 8k on a stock b16.