MassScene

Where can I find R12??????? I need a/c now. i take a shower before work. by the time i get there my seat,*** and nutz are saturated. I need a/c!

SRd240sx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by littlegreenb18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I went to the st louis hub and even talked to the manager, he acted like i was crazy </TD></TR></TABLE>

Serious man.. I called at least 4 in my area. None of em said they had a vacuum pump except this hand one that they sold.

I don't think all AutoZones have em... maybe even just a select few have them

Any alternative places to get a vacuum pump? Even if it costs a little money to rent, I need to do it

MugenHonda

just evcuate and use 134a.
you can get freeze 12 in a lot of places

Avengeance

I have a Civic with 193,000 miles on it and my Compressor just took a ish.

First of all.. where is the orfice tube and expansion valve located? I didnt find anything about that in this write up. I have no idea where they go? I have brand new parts but cant find them on the car.

I replaced the compressor and the Rec/Drier and decided to see if I could make it work from there. I have the pump with the lines and gauges. After vacuuming for an hour I saw 23psi vac. When I close the valves and turn the pump off the vac drops back to zero within a minute.

Apparently I may have a leak? I wonder if its the condensor or the valves, I went to get the valve core repair kit from Autozone and they had no idea what I was talking about... and I cant find it on their site.

I need HELP.. I have a brand new compressor installed and no way to fill the system, IE no way to lube the compressor and dont want to drive it and risk jacking it up w/o oil!

Avengeance

drumminforev.. what is the PN on the valve core repair kit? That would help.

Thanks...

drumminforev

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avengeance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drumminforev.. what is the PN on the valve core repair kit? That would help.

Thanks...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Next time i go i will find out. You know, you could probably use a new bicycle valve stem. I believe its the exact same piece. No matter what one you put in, make sure the rubber seal looks new, and add a little oil around it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avengeance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a Civic with 193,000 miles on it and my Compressor just took a ish.

First of all.. where is the orfice tube and expansion valve located? I didnt find anything about that in this write up. I have no idea where they go? I have brand new parts but cant find them on the car.

I replaced the compressor and the Rec/Drier and decided to see if I could make it work from there. I have the pump with the lines and gauges. After vacuuming for an hour I saw 23psi vac. When I close the valves and turn the pump off the vac drops back to zero within a minute.

Apparently I may have a leak? I wonder if its the condensor or the valves, I went to get the valve core repair kit from Autozone and they had no idea what I was talking about... and I cant find it on their site.

I need HELP.. I have a brand new compressor installed and no way to fill the system, IE no way to lube the compressor and dont want to drive it and risk jacking it up w/o oil!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You do have a large leak. Probably your drier since you say you did it yourself. It took me 2 new driers, and NEITHER of them fit properly, so i ended up using the original. and it STILL took me 20 minutes to get it to seat 100% FLAT against the drier. Now, i just got my electronic leak detector and the bitch is leaking still! Everyone learn from this. FIND LEAKS BEFORE ADDING FREON. precious freon.

I dont know if they are supposed to have o rings, cuz i didnt use any. But it makes sense to use two tiny orings for each fitting on the drier. You should check that connection first, and try putting some small *** o rings in the seats to make it seal.

MAKE SURE THE CAP FOR YOU NIPPLES HAS AN O RING IN IT. Mine didnt and it was leaking past that as well, even after putting in new valve cores. Some call it a shraider valve...

Also, when you put the new compressor on, did you use NEW orings on EVERY fitting and add OIL to them first? If not, expect a leak.

If you still have a leak, here is one way to tell. (you have to waste some refrigerant, but its worth it to find a leak). Hook up a can and let it charge into the low or high side, (doesnt matter cuz the car will be OFF). Now if the leak is big, you will hear refrigerant coming out. AGAIN the car has to be OFF to hear anything. Now get some soapy water and splash it all around every single part of the a system and look CAREFULLY for bubbles. Thats your leak.

Oh and dont forget to make sure HOSES TO THE GAUGE MANIFOLD SET ARE TIGHTLY SCREWED ONTO THE NIPPLES, AND INTO THE MANIFOLD.

If you still cant find it, you need an electronic leak detector.

I will research where the txv is and repost

drumminforev

By the way, honda's have Thermal expansion valve, rather then orifice tubes. GM usually uses orifice tubes

drumminforev

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MassScene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where can I find R12??????? I need a/c now. i take a shower before work. by the time i get there my seat,*** and nutz are saturated. I need a/c!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have r12 for sale for $50 per 14oz can. PM if interested. Only a few cans left

EM1SON

nice thread
btw arnt you SEAFOAM man?
haha

Avengeance

First off.. thanks for the help in PMs. Much appreciated.

Another Q.. I have access to a big jug of R12. They keep it at my work but I dont even think we have anything that will use it anymore. Im 99% sure I can get my boss to let me have it. The thing looks like a propane cyl and its pretty full.

Can I use R12 in my car instead of R134a? If so I may just recharge my car with that if its more effective.

MassScene

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avengeance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off.. thanks for the help in PMs. Much appreciated.

Another Q.. I have access to a big jug of R12. They keep it at my work but I dont even think we have anything that will use it anymore. Im 99% sure I can get my boss to let me have it. The thing looks like a propane cyl and its pretty full.

Can I use R12 in my car instead of R134a? If so I may just recharge my car with that if its more effective.</TD></TR></TABLE> nope cant do it.

drumminforev

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lesturrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice thread
btw arnt you SEAFOAM man?
haha </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, im the seafoam man. Funny **** huh.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avengeance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off.. thanks for the help in PMs. Much appreciated.

Another Q.. I have access to a big jug of R12. They keep it at my work but I dont even think we have anything that will use it anymore. Im 99% sure I can get my boss to let me have it. The thing looks like a propane cyl and its pretty full.

Can I use R12 in my car instead of R134a? If so I may just recharge my car with that if its more effective.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, you can do it ONLY if you FLUSH THE ENTIRE SYSTEM, removing all OIL and replacing every O-RING and the DRIER. I mean there can not be any r134a oil in the line, because when you add the r12 oil....if they mix you are asking for disaster.

If you are up to it, DO IT. R12 is sweet.

MackEg6

Bump cause I think your fro is tight and you need to stay cool with all that hair on your grape

MugenHonda

First off, to find a leak in an air conditioner you use UV green dye that is in some of the refrigerants.
No point in hearing for leaks.
Second, R12, or freeze 12 as it is now sold is 11 bucks for every 13 oz can.
If people need r12 I can get it as I am a tech, it sells for 11 bucks a 13oz can.

Avengeance

Well.. ****.. I wouldve done R12 but after the postr after mine I didnt think it would work. I replaced the compressor and there hasnt been any R134a in my car for over a year.. it was probably bone dry and wouldve worked for R12. Damn!

Anyways.. just replying with my results. After getting the new compressor and drier installed, fixing a leak at the drier on one of the o-rings, replacing the valve cores, then holding 28-29psi for several hours... I filled the system with about 16-17oz of R134a. I lost an ounce or two because the damn R134a bottle I had had a cheap *** plastic nozzle that leaked as it was filling. I may have to add some R134a.

I checked the vent temp on the way home from work in 90* weather and I was seeing 48-49* while driving and only a few degrees higher in town. The car drives nice and I can baaaaaaaarely tell when the compressor cycles, which is nice.

All in all.. happy to have A/C again and now I have to do the whole thing again on my wifes Civic. LOL

Thanks drummin.

Avengeance

BTW.. this thread should be a sticky.

XkjeldorX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avengeance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well.. ****.. I wouldve done R12 but after the postr after mine I didnt think it would work. I replaced the compressor and there hasnt been any R134a in my car for over a year.. it was probably bone dry and wouldve worked for R12. Damn!

Anyways.. just replying with my results. After getting the new compressor and drier installed, fixing a leak at the drier on one of the o-rings, replacing the valve cores, then holding 28-29psi for several hours... I filled the system with about 16-17oz of R134a. I lost an ounce or two because the damn R134a bottle I had had a cheap *** plastic nozzle that leaked as it was filling. I may have to add some R134a.

I checked the vent temp on the way home from work in 90* weather and I was seeing 48-49* while driving and only a few degrees higher in town. The car drives nice and I can baaaaaaaarely tell when the compressor cycles, which is nice.

All in all.. happy to have A/C again and now I have to do the whole thing again on my wifes Civic. LOL

Thanks drummin.</TD></TR></TABLE>
good to hear ur a/c is running cold cant wait to install my drier, valve cores, new o-rings, fill my compressor with oil and take it to get lines evacuated! than just will with some 134 and ill be set! cant wait for monday!

imadigitalgod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avengeance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW.. this thread should be a sticky. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes

I am wondering, when converting a system to 134a, do u need to change all the orings?

also i see those green oring sets at some auto parts stores, do those go inbetween every connection thats in the a/c system?

The_Todd

AWESOME post man, great pictures and awesome detail....next time I need to do mine I will try this.

drumminforev

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First off, to find a leak in an air conditioner you use UV green dye that is in some of the refrigerants.
No point in hearing for leaks.
Second, R12, or freeze 12 as it is now sold is 11 bucks for every 13 oz can.
If people need r12 I can get it as I am a tech, it sells for 11 bucks a 13oz can.</TD></TR></TABLE>

UV dye sucks. It works, kinda. But it might not leak out of every leak. And you have to wait sometimes days before it will show up out a leak. Soap and water will show just as much as UV dye would. Other than that, you need an electronic leak detector.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes

I am wondering, when converting a system to 134a, do u need to change all the orings?

also i see those green oring sets at some auto parts stores, do those go inbetween every connection thats in the a/c system?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, those are O-rings and are what seals every connection in your ac system. If you are missing some then it will leak there. They also are a leading cause of leaks in an ac system. First is bad valve cores (otherwise called shrader valve).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Avengeance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well.. ****.. I wouldve done R12 but after the postr after mine I didnt think it would work. I replaced the compressor and there hasnt been any R134a in my car for over a year.. it was probably bone dry and wouldve worked for R12. Damn!

Anyways.. just replying with my results. After getting the new compressor and drier installed, fixing a leak at the drier on one of the o-rings, replacing the valve cores, then holding 28-29psi for several hours... I filled the system with about 16-17oz of R134a. I lost an ounce or two because the damn R134a bottle I had had a cheap *** plastic nozzle that leaked as it was filling. I may have to add some R134a.

I checked the vent temp on the way home from work in 90* weather and I was seeing 48-49* while driving and only a few degrees higher in town. The car drives nice and I can baaaaaaaarely tell when the compressor cycles, which is nice.

All in all.. happy to have A/C again and now I have to do the whole thing again on my wifes Civic. LOL

Thanks drummin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem. And if you are seeing temps of 48-49 degrees, you can call yourself a pro. The absolute coldest I have heard of r134a reaching is 47 degrees.


Anyone who needs r12, send me a PM or email. I have 14oz cans for sale.

95GSRTT

can you get the o-rings somewhere besides acura/honda? 3 bucks a pop gets kind of expensive

divisionskate

thanks for the write up nate, im going to be doing this some time soon, im just way to lazy.

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drumminforev &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone who needs r12, send me a PM or email. I have 14oz cans for sale.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't advertise that too much. Selling 12 to unlicensed people is like venting the stuff into the atmosphere. EPA can get you for $27,500 if they want. Fine went up $2,500 since I got my EPA card back in 96.

slywfbpsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you get the o-rings somewhere besides acura/honda? 3 bucks a pop gets kind of expensive</TD></TR></TABLE>Autozone

slixxracing

nice info.