*** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
04-09-2009, 09:27 PM
#176
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve (wildoutwhitegsr)
havent had a chance to really dig the problem and correct it...maybe its my iacv...
04-19-2009, 07:07 PM
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
great post when i would start my car it would be at 2000rpm then it would go from 1000rpm to 3000rpm i ask every one i know and no ne know what it was i did what u said to do and it took about 15 min and i started my car and it was like new thanks
First things first, you have to determine if your FITV needs cleaning. Now if you’ve never done it before it probably does unless you bought a complete new one.
Reasons why you should take it apart and cleaning it:
-High idle before your car warms up, above 1500-1800rpm
-Lumpy idle
-Roaming idle
-Hunting idle
-Fluctuating idle
Tools Needed:
Ratchet
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
Pliers
Flathead Screwdriver
Throttle Body Cleaner or Brake Cleaner
Paper Towels
A cooled down engine for at least 2 hours
1) Now you got to locate where the FITV is. If your car is 1996 and newer you don’t have one. But for the older Gen 3 models like me, we do. Pop your hood and it’s located directly beneath the throttle body. It’s actually connected to it.
Attached to the FITV is one coolant line. This is how it looks with the intake on
This is how it looks with the intake removed
2) Now that we’ve located it, Remove your intake and strut tower bar (if applicable). Next remove the one coolant hose that is attached to it, using the pliers to loosen the clip. Have lots paper towels underneath to catch the coolant when it leaks out.
3) Next is to remove the three 10mm bolts located at the bottom of the FITV. **Note the intake manifold here is upside down to make it easier for you to see**
After it is removed from the engine it should look like this
Now spin it around to located the two 8mm bolts
4) After you located those two bolts remove them carefully and you should be left with this. Sorry for the blurry picture, I was cold and shivering.
5) Now unscrew it with a screwdriver
You should be left with this
6) Now take it apart and give it a good cleaning with the throttle body or brake cleaner. This is what we should have taken apart so far minus the cap and two 8mm bolts
Before
After
Semi put back together and cleaned
All cleaned up and back together
7) Clean up the inside of the FITV body like so
8) Now screw it all the way back in or back to where it was before if your car idles fine.
Side view shot through the hole. It isn’t screwed in all the way since my car idles fine at that position. Screw it in more if your car idles to high. The opposite if it idles to low.
9) Now put the cap back on and tighten the two 8mm bolts back down.
10) Reinstall the FITV back on your car following steps backwards from step 3 to step 1
Good Luck
Modified by wildoutwhitegsr at 1:02 AM 3/19/2006
Reasons why you should take it apart and cleaning it:
-High idle before your car warms up, above 1500-1800rpm
-Lumpy idle
-Roaming idle
-Hunting idle
-Fluctuating idle
Tools Needed:
Ratchet
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
Pliers
Flathead Screwdriver
Throttle Body Cleaner or Brake Cleaner
Paper Towels
A cooled down engine for at least 2 hours
1) Now you got to locate where the FITV is. If your car is 1996 and newer you don’t have one. But for the older Gen 3 models like me, we do. Pop your hood and it’s located directly beneath the throttle body. It’s actually connected to it.
Attached to the FITV is one coolant line. This is how it looks with the intake on
This is how it looks with the intake removed
2) Now that we’ve located it, Remove your intake and strut tower bar (if applicable). Next remove the one coolant hose that is attached to it, using the pliers to loosen the clip. Have lots paper towels underneath to catch the coolant when it leaks out.
3) Next is to remove the three 10mm bolts located at the bottom of the FITV. **Note the intake manifold here is upside down to make it easier for you to see**
After it is removed from the engine it should look like this
Now spin it around to located the two 8mm bolts
4) After you located those two bolts remove them carefully and you should be left with this. Sorry for the blurry picture, I was cold and shivering.
5) Now unscrew it with a screwdriver
You should be left with this
6) Now take it apart and give it a good cleaning with the throttle body or brake cleaner. This is what we should have taken apart so far minus the cap and two 8mm bolts
Before
After
Semi put back together and cleaned
All cleaned up and back together
7) Clean up the inside of the FITV body like so
8) Now screw it all the way back in or back to where it was before if your car idles fine.
Side view shot through the hole. It isn’t screwed in all the way since my car idles fine at that position. Screw it in more if your car idles to high. The opposite if it idles to low.
9) Now put the cap back on and tighten the two 8mm bolts back down.
10) Reinstall the FITV back on your car following steps backwards from step 3 to step 1
Good Luck
Modified by wildoutwhitegsr at 1:02 AM 3/19/2006
04-20-2009, 12:30 AM
#178
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Re: (JesDM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reno96teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm.. this:
"High idle before your car warms up, above 1500-1800rpm"
is normal.
unless you mean, too fast?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's normal in really cold weather, but some peoples cars do it during the summer months as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JesDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">omfg......... ive been lookin everywhere/ DOING everything to FIND OUT WHY my car IDLES so wierd when its COLD.. then when its warmed up its Fine but sometimes the ocassional Vacum leaks at a stop light or neutral rolling down a hill... MAYBE this iS how to FIX IT... buut that looks like a GSR motor.. im LS b18b is it the same??</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have a any honda/acura that's OBDI or made before 1996 you'll have a FITV
"High idle before your car warms up, above 1500-1800rpm"
is normal.
unless you mean, too fast?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's normal in really cold weather, but some peoples cars do it during the summer months as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JesDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">omfg......... ive been lookin everywhere/ DOING everything to FIND OUT WHY my car IDLES so wierd when its COLD.. then when its warmed up its Fine but sometimes the ocassional Vacum leaks at a stop light or neutral rolling down a hill... MAYBE this iS how to FIX IT... buut that looks like a GSR motor.. im LS b18b is it the same??</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have a any honda/acura that's OBDI or made before 1996 you'll have a FITV
04-28-2009, 10:53 PM
#180
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
hey everyone i just bought this car 2 weeks ago with a fluctuating idle and its really annoying. i checked for vacuum leaks, checked IM bolts and found all tight, made sure coolant line was running right, and made sure the FITV was screwed in all the way and tight and really clean, also cleaned the iacv and the car idles fine until the car is warmed up completely. i replaced the FITV and still have the problem there is no suction on the bottom hold inside the TB now but when the car warms up still fluctuates from abut 700 or 800 to about 1500 rpms when i push the clutch in or sitting at a stop light. when i put the ac on no matter what speed it stops fluctuating. what should i do next?
also this started after the previous owner used seafoam
also is the iacv the same on the b16a3 and b18c1 engines the same?
also this started after the previous owner used seafoam
also is the iacv the same on the b16a3 and b18c1 engines the same?
Last edited by phantom_bcw84; 04-29-2009 at 09:53 AM.
05-21-2009, 03:45 PM
#181
Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
omfg man. thank you for this write up. i just got a h22 '92 lude a few weeks back as my new project, and couldnt figure out why the idle would go up and down repeatedly. then me and my boss figured out it was the fitv, so i thought id have to get a new one. started researching on the web and came across this thread. i didnt even have to clean mine, i took it apart and the valve wasnt even screwed in, it was just bouncing around in the housing. fixed the problem like nothing. ill go back and clean in when i get some carb cleaner, but for the mean time it idles perfectly. 
06-07-2009, 11:35 PM
#183
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
I know this might sound dumb but would the process work the same with a D16z6. My car idles from 800 to 1500RPM over and over on a warm engine.
06-09-2009, 10:05 PM
#184
EFB055
Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
hey everyone i just bought this car 2 weeks ago with a fluctuating idle and its really annoying. i checked for vacuum leaks, checked IM bolts and found all tight, made sure coolant line was running right, and made sure the FITV was screwed in all the way and tight and really clean, also cleaned the iacv and the car idles fine until the car is warmed up completely. i replaced the FITV and still have the problem there is no suction on the bottom hold inside the TB now but when the car warms up still fluctuates from abut 700 or 800 to about 1500 rpms when i push the clutch in or sitting at a stop light. when i put the ac on no matter what speed it stops fluctuating. what should i do next?
07-28-2009, 02:39 PM
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
hi i just been reading this thread and i would like to know if any one can tell me where the IAC valve is located on my 1997 1.4i Bugeye civic , i believe it is the japanese version which was was brought over here. I would like some pictures if possible and ideas on how to fix/service it as i believe it is the cause of my very low and erratic idle speed when the motor is warm/hot. It is now starting to stall at junctions which in a bright red civic is getting very embarrasing,after reading all info i do believe i dont have a FITV, which brings me to the conclusion it must be the IAC and hopefully nothing else more expensive. The car has done 96K miles,i just just thought i'd add that piece of info.Can you guys help me with the relevant info ,or link me to pictures/test procedures to fix this,as i dont know how much longer the starter will last at this rate, PLEASE HELP ME,THNX in advance.
08-07-2009, 09:34 PM
#186
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
Thanks for the help guys.
I cleaned out my IACV and my FITV. That white plastic ring was completely loose in my FITV, I cleaned it out, tightened it back down and it fixed all my problems.
Not only did this fix my high revving cold start and erratic/jumpy idle, but my brake pedal feels better now, my car isn't as jerky when going on/off throttle, and for some reason the overall power band and low end feels smoother.
I cleaned out my IACV and my FITV. That white plastic ring was completely loose in my FITV, I cleaned it out, tightened it back down and it fixed all my problems.
Not only did this fix my high revving cold start and erratic/jumpy idle, but my brake pedal feels better now, my car isn't as jerky when going on/off throttle, and for some reason the overall power band and low end feels smoother.
08-08-2009, 06:34 AM
#187
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
I followed the instruction for the FITV cleanout and it worked great, it had not done this for several hundred miles and I was going to smog it today. Took a chance and cleaned it and it worked great BUT on my 92 Honda Accord LX the FITV I right in the open and all I had to do is remove the 2 phillips screws while all was still installed on the vehicle. piece of cake. ED NOt sure of the clean up for the other device that it connects to. ED
08-11-2009, 03:49 PM
#188
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
Great write-up.
I cleaned the FITV along with the IACV on my 93 integ and my idle is amazing. However, remember where it was set before... because at first I didn't screw it in enough and my idle was way too high. After letting it cool I pulled the FITV off again and tightened the white part down. It's perfect now, idling at 1600 rpms while warming up then coming down to rock solid 750.
I cleaned the FITV along with the IACV on my 93 integ and my idle is amazing. However, remember where it was set before... because at first I didn't screw it in enough and my idle was way too high. After letting it cool I pulled the FITV off again and tightened the white part down. It's perfect now, idling at 1600 rpms while warming up then coming down to rock solid 750.
08-12-2009, 05:59 AM
#189
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
Evening fellas.
Cleaned up my FITV today, but being curious, I unscrewed the other side of the FITV aswell. Other side being the side the coolant hose plugs on to.
Noticing that nobody else mentions doing the same, I had to register for some assistance.
The other side has a rubber seal, just like the 3 holes on the FITV as seen in the pics. Problem I have, is that whilst cleaning, the rubber seal fell out, now I cannot get it back in. The seal is too large for the groove it's supposed to live in!
As a result, there is now space for coolant to escape the FITV and make a damned mess everywhere -.-
Anybody have any suggestions to fix it? If not, I guess a new FITV is on the list..
Cheers in advance guys
Cleaned up my FITV today, but being curious, I unscrewed the other side of the FITV aswell. Other side being the side the coolant hose plugs on to.
Noticing that nobody else mentions doing the same, I had to register for some assistance.
The other side has a rubber seal, just like the 3 holes on the FITV as seen in the pics. Problem I have, is that whilst cleaning, the rubber seal fell out, now I cannot get it back in. The seal is too large for the groove it's supposed to live in!
As a result, there is now space for coolant to escape the FITV and make a damned mess everywhere -.-
Anybody have any suggestions to fix it? If not, I guess a new FITV is on the list..
Cheers in advance guys
08-12-2009, 02:11 PM
#190
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
I actually did the exact same thing while cleaning mine. I unscrewed the coolant side, and scraped out the remaining bit of the now-useless wax lining the walls. Upon doing so, the rubber seal popped out. I guess it's just normally a little big for the groove.
It took me a little while, but I was able to get it back in there with the help of someone else. I put one finger down while using my other hand to slowly press more and more in. My brother then pushed the remaining part in as I kept it steady. Try again, maybe getting another pair of hands this time. It's hard, but I'm sure you can do it. Good luck.
It took me a little while, but I was able to get it back in there with the help of someone else. I put one finger down while using my other hand to slowly press more and more in. My brother then pushed the remaining part in as I kept it steady. Try again, maybe getting another pair of hands this time. It's hard, but I'm sure you can do it. Good luck.
08-12-2009, 02:57 PM
#192
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
Thanks for that eaglewesman. I'll give it another shot after breakfast.
You mentioned "now-useless wax lining the walls". Is there meant to be, say, some sort of adhesive, aswell as the rubber seal?
Cheers again in advance
You mentioned "now-useless wax lining the walls". Is there meant to be, say, some sort of adhesive, aswell as the rubber seal?
Cheers again in advance
08-13-2009, 08:56 AM
#193
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
From what I understand about the FITV, when it was brand new, a chunk of wax was in the coolant side that we opened up. Temperature causes the wax to either expand or contract, having an effect on the metal rod inside the FITV, which then adjusts the idle accordingly. I may be wrong here, someone please correct me if I am.
But after 16 years of use the wax begins to deteriorate. I just scraped little hard bits of old wax off the inside of the "coolant cap" area. I figured that having this stuff go through my coolant system probably wasn't a good idea. I don't think there is any sort of adhesive on the FITV at all, just the rubber seal. Get that thing in there and you should be good to go. Lemme know how it goes.
But after 16 years of use the wax begins to deteriorate. I just scraped little hard bits of old wax off the inside of the "coolant cap" area. I figured that having this stuff go through my coolant system probably wasn't a good idea. I don't think there is any sort of adhesive on the FITV at all, just the rubber seal. Get that thing in there and you should be good to go. Lemme know how it goes.
08-13-2009, 04:18 PM
#194
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
Yeah, I noticed the little hard bits on there also.
Anyway, could not get those rubber seals back on properly, and after a day of driving with them not seated properly, they had snapped.
I bought some RTV silicone and filled the grooves to create a new seal. Damn messy stuff, but easy to use and it seems to have done its job thus far.
Wish me luck and thankyou again for your help =] Cheers
Anyway, could not get those rubber seals back on properly, and after a day of driving with them not seated properly, they had snapped.
I bought some RTV silicone and filled the grooves to create a new seal. Damn messy stuff, but easy to use and it seems to have done its job thus far.
Wish me luck and thankyou again for your help =] Cheers
08-15-2009, 02:25 AM
#196
H-T White Ops
Thanks for thew write up!
I just did this on my '93 Accord, which has had idle issues since I picked it up in April. The previous owner reported that it had been doing it for awhile, but he wasn't sure why.
I'd come to the conclusion that it was the FITV, but hadn't known where the FITV was on the Accord yet. I'd thought it was under the intake manifold for some reason.
Come to find out, it's right there on the left side (driver's) of the intake manifold. Two hoses and three bolts and it's off.
Now the car is back to running just fine. My only repair left now is to replace the muffler and do a brake job.
I just did this on my '93 Accord, which has had idle issues since I picked it up in April. The previous owner reported that it had been doing it for awhile, but he wasn't sure why.
I'd come to the conclusion that it was the FITV, but hadn't known where the FITV was on the Accord yet. I'd thought it was under the intake manifold for some reason.
Come to find out, it's right there on the left side (driver's) of the intake manifold. Two hoses and three bolts and it's off.
Now the car is back to running just fine. My only repair left now is to replace the muffler and do a brake job.
08-28-2009, 07:09 AM
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Re: *** How-To*** Clean Your FITV aka Fast Idle Thermo Valve
Will screwing in the "white peice" with the screwdriver on the FITV affect idle at cold or operating temp. or both?
I have a built mini me with cams and lightened flywheel and my idle is fine when cold. When the engine warms up, the idle is too low and stalls quite often. So I have to pedal the throttle at red lights. This is very annoying but sometimes the car will end up idling fine for up to 15 seconds. It rarely idles fine though
I have a built mini me with cams and lightened flywheel and my idle is fine when cold. When the engine warms up, the idle is too low and stalls quite often. So I have to pedal the throttle at red lights. This is very annoying but sometimes the car will end up idling fine for up to 15 seconds. It rarely idles fine though