blkdoutteg

Hi,

I recently rebuilt and installed a b18 into my integra. The car starts right up every time, however when I go to stop at a stop sign or am driving and go to neutral, the car either stalls or gets very close to stalling (200-300) rpm. But then the car will start right back and drive up without any problem at all (with full range of rpm) until I go to stop again and the rpm will drop to stall or barely alive.

Running an Obd2 scan revealed a P1336 code.
After doing some research about it and what others have said is the culprit, I have tried:
- new fuel filter
- change plugs
- change plug wires
- new distributor
- change upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- new Crank position sensor
- checked a couple times now for vacuum leaks via starter fluid
- checked all ground wires
- cleaned IACV
- Throttle body was cleaned upon engine install
- checked PCV and it's clear.

I need this code to go away so that I can emissions test and register the car. Thank you Colorado.

I do have a small exhaust leak that I need to fix, I believe between the up and downstream O2's, so I'm going to go after that next, but am wondering if there is anything else you have seen or could be a factor for this code.

Thanks,
Matt

HondaPartsHero

Year make model

https://www.justanswer.com/honda/58f...honda-crv.html

wunfstgsr

Check the wires to the IACV plug

blkdoutteg

Sorry, car is a 1999 Acura Integra GS, with a B18B1 motor. Bone stock.

blkdoutteg

may first glance everything looked fine, I'll dives little deeper, and when the car is warm I'll see what happens when removing the IACV

wunfstgsr

Also check for vacuum leaks.

blkdoutteg

update:


Checked for vacuum leaks again. Have not found a single thing. Ill take a video next time.


However,


when the engine was warm and I slightly pulled the IACV off to allow a vacuum leak, the engine would go from 2000-2500 rpm and then cut way down to about 500-700, then back up. It would repeat this all day.

It seemed like it wavered slightly when idling normally, this just amplified it.


What is the sensor on top of the intake manifold next to the map sensor? i removed the plug to the sensor and it changed nothing, then i removed the hose to it, also changed nothing. Ive never seen this sensor on an OBD1 before so I'm assuming its an OBD2 sensor of some sort.

blkdoutteg

The oil pressure sensor plug has been cut or ripped off. The sensor in the block is still there, but it's not plugged in. Should there be an oil light on? Or could that somehow cause my P1336 code?

wunfstgsr

​​​​​​​maybe, deff wire it back in and reset the ecu.

blkdoutteg

Just curious, How would it cause the P1336 (crank position sensor) code?

wunfstgsr

no it wouldn't cause that code your p1336 code is directly associated with the ckp, one common cause is the wire harness for the ckp sensor gets ripped from the alternator belt causing g a short, $10 says that's your problem, inspect the wires and the harness plug closely I bet you find a cut wire in the harness plug

second confirm you have the correct timing crank gear on the crank, the gear has the ckp pick up on the gear like a star shape around it, obd1 I believe don't have it and it's just a gear, Google the difference because if your using the obd1 gear that doesn't have the magnetic puck up on the gear the ckp sensor has no signal to pick up and will throw that code.

​​​​​​​third the oil pressure sensor should also give a code or oil light but maybe that's the knock sensor that came off not the oil pressure sensor because I think that won't cause a cell to come on but I could be wrong but check the first 2 I suggested

blkdoutteg

1. I checked the harness a couple times just to be sure, the wires all still look to be intact, the belt hasn't eaten them. The sensor with plug is brand new. You can pay me the $10 later lol.

I also swapped the bay harness with a known good one from another integra and the code is still there

2. Yes it has the correct crank gear on it, with the "star" on the back end of it that you just described. The sensor is pointed directly at it. Is it possible to put the crank gear on backwards? I thought the star interfered but I may be 2nd guessing myself. As I have it, the star is inside, closest to the block.

3. Knock sensor wiring has a connector doesn't it? Whereas the oil pressure sensor wire just attaches to the post on the sensor?
Do LS motors even have a knock sensor?


My next step is to go to each sensor and multimeter it to see if I'm getting proper voltages.
That may help me determine the root cause.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback!
- Matt