wunfstgsr

Hello recently I have seem to have problems after the next. The engine has been tuned and ran fjne after the tune then a few things started happening about few weaks later.

engine is a b18c5 w/ bolt ons
​​​​​​​boosted on 12 psi currently have the SC disabled running n.a
I'd 1000cc injectors
Hondata s100

One day the engine went completely lean and so I shut it off and started it back up and drive home. The next day i started it and afr was full lean again and I shut it off. My friend came and plugged in a s300 and we seen the ect was reading way to hot and I looked at the ect wire and it was pretty much torn so we had a identical pig tail eith good wire and wired it up and engine ran fine.

then one day driving it dies on me so I pushed started it and drove to a friend's house and parked and it wouldn't start. So I tested my battery and starter. Starter was dead and battery needed a charge so changed those and it drove fine.

so the next day it died again on me on the road and would not fire, it cranked fine but no fire, I came back about a a hour later and srarted it just fine and drove home. Now today I put the key in to acc and I heard a loud ticking and traced it to the iacv I unplugged it and the sound is gone. I replaced it with a working used one and it makes the same sound so I tried to start it up and it would rapidly make my main relay click fast and it would crank and fire up for a sec but would not Idle and die each time, it would not stay running like there was no fuel or the fuel pump was not working.

​​​​​​​I cleaned the thermo ground and tried again and the main relay stopped clicking but I can still hear the iacv ticking randomly and the engine turned over for a few sec again but just died again before it could even catch idle then it just cranked and cranked and would not fire like there was no spark or something so I gave up for the night.

I can hear the fuel pump prime my battery is charged and clean tight terminals my grounds are clean I'm lost.
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B20VtecVillain

I would check the IGN relay under the driver side dash area near fuse panel. If you have a known good one, swap it and try to start car. If not, grab your multimeter and take your IGN relay and test it. Proper specs can be had online. As for the other issues, parts like starters, alternators, batteries etc do go bad. Since your having a lot of electrical issues though, double check all grounds. Make sure they are TIGHT especially the one on the passenger side on the trans. Also make sure there is no rust or debris between the grounds and the metal. Take a brush and some brake Kleen to it if it's. rusty and corroded. Even if they appear good a slightly loose or dirty ground can cause all kinds of issues. Lastly, did you say your car goes LEAN when very hot? If this is true, I would take the car back to whoever tuned it and have them correct the protection settings in Hondata. Your engine should be going rich when ECT gets high and the ecu is in the hot settings. You want the tune to add fuel when getting close to or into an overheat situation to prevent detonation, you do not want the ecu removing fuel when overly hot and going lean as this will induce detonation.

wunfstgsr

checked all my grounds there good. I'll look into the ign relay.

the engine runs great when it runs, it was going lean when my ect plug was torn after that got fixed the afr was fine. Church tuned the car.

this am I turned the key to Acc and the main relay and iacv was going nuts it was clicking like crazy. I tried to Start It but It wouldn't fire up just would crank. I have a fairly new rich porter distributor and I have spark.

only thing I can think of is maybe the walbro.255 fuel pump I got from stupid ebay is a fake Chinese one and its failed. And I'm not getting fuel but I can't seem to see the relationship with the main relay and iacv clicking rapidly.

Car was driving fine then the afr when full lean and died at the light it started it back up and it was very rough and had to give it almost wot to get it to move across the street where I parked it and it wouldn't start anymore, 1 hour later it fired up just fine and I drove it home now it won't start again and main relay and iacv are ticking any idea why the iacv and main relay is clicking.

​​​​​​​I inspected my main relay and it looked perfect the day my starter died I checked the main relay anyway and it looked fine all the solder looked perfect but I'm going to remove it again and inspect it since now it's clicking

trm4life

Sounds a bit complicated. I don't know about the newer Integras, but my 91, has an IACV AND an EIC (electric idle control). Fortunately, my IACV is serviceable. The EIC on mine took a crap last year. Wouldn't start. Luckily, the ECU threw up the code. Took a sensor off another intake I had laying around and it fired right up. Chances are, this doesn't help you at all. However, keeping it simple, I know these sensors run on coolant temp, so perhaps u have a bad hose or clog? Wish I could be more helpful. ...

wunfstgsr

Actually they don't run off coolant temp there just to help during very cold winters, i just seleted my hoses since one of my hoses was hard I just used the other hose from the coolant pipe to the thermostat.

So I went again tonight cause I work full time and I really don't want to start the car up my neighbors always complain so I have my 2 days off that I can work on it on Tues but I got in and put the key in and again the main relay is clicking rapidly in conjunction to my fuel pump and then it stops and the iacv starts ticking randomly.

I'm going to take a look at the main relay again as well as see if I can find the furl pump fuse as I believe there's one under the dash fuse box.

could a defective fuel pump be the culprit, I'm going to pull this fuel pump I'm more than sure I got ripped off for a fake walbro 255 made in China I heard they saturated the markets and I should of known paying 75 for a walbro was too cheap... going to throw back my oem pump as well. I plan to go e85 so I'm going to use a different fuel pump anyway.

thanks guys.

wunfstgsr

bump for any insight.

trm4life

I'd start by finding a replacement relay. Simple and cheap. I'd also check voltage at the fuel pump harness under the back seat. However, if the relay isn't working right you won't be able to. ..I suppose you could try unplugging the harness and running 12v to the pump to see if it runs. I agree 75$ may have been cheap. Perhaps contact walboro about a warranty?

wunfstgsr

Im going to put in my oem fuel pump first thing in the morning and go from there. That's the thing the fuel pump was not purchased from walbro but on ebay so chances are its fake and they wont warranty a fake.

wunfstgsr

OK so I replaced my fuel pump and still no change. I then pulled out my battery from my civic and swaped it in but still no chsnge

​​​​​​​so i pulled the main relay and also double checked all my grounds and only thing I could think of was either my obd2a to obd1 ecu harness could have a short from being so old so I pulled it out and just pushed in all the pins and I put a fresh glob of solder on the main relay points and put it back in and the cars back to normal thank god, but I noticed my battery was completely dead pretty much cause it wouldn't start my civic so I'll be buying a new battery and alternator soon just because it's like the only thing that's original on the car lol but pretty sure It needed solder in my the main relay.

trm4life

Good to hear! Hard to say if it was the harness or the relay, or both but happy to hear you figured it out!

wunfstgsr

Wanna,bring this back cause the car has the same symptoms again. Car wouldn't start and I hear a humming sound from the iacv, if I unplug it it makes a thud sound and sound goes away, another weird thing is I moved the harness wires from the ect sensor and it shut off the sound from the iacv, so I unplugged the ect plug and the iacv started to hum more loader and intermittent. If I move around the wires on the ect plug the sound cuts away but comes back unless I have it in that sweet spot to shut off the sound coming from the iacv.

I tried starting the car with the sound off by messing with the ect wires but still wouldn't start.

I checked for spark and I got spark at the coil and plugs. I tried a working coil and icm from my civic but still no start.

what's the connection between the iacv and ect plug? Do they share a ground or something seems weird, I suck at electrical diagnosing..

​​​​​​​I'm gonna try and mess with my obd1 ecu jumper harness as that's what seems to fix it last time in conjunction to solder on the main relay but the jumper harness is new..and I know there's fuel and spark or at least some cause I haven't tested the coils with a multimeter so I'm not sure if my spark is just weak..

wunfstgsr

Well I looked at my obd1 ecu harness and one wire was pulled out a lil and I pushed it in and pushed in all the rest in firm and plugged it back to the ecu and and started but wont hold idle and runs very rich in 10.5 range and will die if I don't give it fuel and im not sure why, I unplugged the ect sensor and there was no change it still ran very rich and this is on a cold start so im going to try and put a new ect sensor and swap out my IACV and see if I get any change.

wunfstgsr

Well I found out for one that one prong inside the ect plug was coming out causing the ect to run the engine rich so I fixed that and also replaced the ect sensor, I also found the the 3 wires to the map sensor I extended were shorting themselves out through the thin shrink wrap I used ( no solder), I realized this simply by touching the map sensor wires and it would shut the engine off pretty much and or cause a cell and runs the engine rich and in limp mode, I put a lil electric tape around each wire where the wires were connected with shrink wrap and no more shorts the engines runs real good now! no high idle no rich afr steady 14.5 !. she's back better than ever wow this was such a long time to figure this out especially having only 2 days a weak to diagnose it im glad I fixed it.