93gsrhatch_1

the current setup
93 eg hatch
b18c block/ p72 gsr head
password intake
dc header
greddy cat back
skunk2 chipped p06 with gsr map that was tuned with itr pistons and valve train
tokiko blues with megan racing springs
s80 tranny w/lsd


i am kinda stuck on where i want to go i def. want to stay all motor. i am open to suggestions on how to make this a nice DD with some pop under the hood. i am looking for personal experience on what has worked and what hasnt. these are my future plans for now.

PnP
edelbrock or blox IM
bigger TB
new header just havent decided
lightened flywheel and clutch kit
new valve train( still researching )
short shifter
head milling and block honing (trying to get 2.0)
probably go with S2 cams w/ adj. gears
full sized radiator
braille battery
hondata gaskets ( have heard great things about these
probably go with p30 pistons and ARP goodies all the way around
Avid motor mounts
would like to go with carbon fiber kit in tranny
a good tune (this is my main focus)

any other suggestions or ideas please let me know. thank you for your time

93gsrhatch_1

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93gsrhatch_1

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93gsrhatch_1

damn can i get some help with this i waited 15 days for no response or ideas

00Red_SiR

A couple things:

1) You need to know where you want to go before anyone can help you.

2) A description of "some pop inder the hood" has a multitude of different meanings to many different people and mostly depends on what YOU want out of your car for it's intended use.

3) Ideally you need to understand why you want/need the part combinations you listed, so you'll understand why you may need or want to change some things.

4) having a defined goal is normally how a person puts a part combination together in the first place. Hearing about "good parts" and assembling them on a list for your build, doesn't usually make a successful build.

5) You need to do a little more reading, understanding and research in order for someone to better help you and for you to be in a better position to help yourself. Just think, how are you going to know if someone gives you good or bad advice on here or on the street?

6) Have a look in here, lots of good info if you put in the time to get it out: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/all-motor-forum-%5Bfaq%5D-2628364/

OH_1fstgsr

iTrader: (2)

Like 00Red_SiR said you need to give us something to focus on.
A daily driver that is around 200whp, 1.8ltr or a 250+ 2.0ltr monster. Which one?
Read up on other builds that are near you power goals. Many of those will answer your questions on what parts to get and use.

93gsrhatch_1

i am looking for a DD but still want the performance aspect i am looking for a high compression motor and i have been researching b18c builds and the are about 2 of them. and by pop under the hood i dont want a slouch of a car. i want something that will be a worth while build on reliable. i am wanting someone who has played with one of these motors and see what has worked and what hasnt. thats what i am looking for. i have heard putting a b16 head on the b18c block would make it rev alot more freely and i am trying to find someone who has buuilt one of these who can give me insight on what works and what doesnt

angryhillbilly

so you want a reliable gsr with 200whp. this is what i have taken out of your post.
not a terribly hard thing to do.
your gona want 11:1 - 12:1 compression, a set of cams (everyone loves skunk cams, i prefer blox but to each his own). a good header (rmf narrow fake seams to be all the rage right now) a 2.5 inch exhaust if u already dont have one. and a hondata with a dyno tune from a good tuner. reliability can be increased by using a good machine shop that understands hondas clearances, and honda oem engine bearings and of course a good tune.

00Red_SiR

A "performance" daily driver is what you want? Not something for the track at all? Why high compression? What do you consider to be a slouch of a car, or a fast car? Do you think that placing a B16 head on a B18c block will really make it rev any differently than a GSR head? Why?

Many of us have "played"/built the exact same things you're asking about but you're still far to vague in what you're asking...

93gsrhatch_1

finally someone else's .02 .. this is what i was looking for ((just suggestions)). being that this is my first b series build i was just wondering what other people have tried and failed or tried and succeeded.. i am looking for around 200 whp but able to maintain at a daily driven level. i want the performance there when i need it. i think you have ventured off from my original post i just want to know if someone has built one of these motors and what has worked for them. i also understand that this is a technical forum with people with knowledge of these motors and i was looking for new avenues of approach. thats it i just want to know how you would approach this build and what you might do in my shoes.. thank you though for your efforts

93gsrhatch_1

a car that i can drive back and forth from work and still have fun on the weekends at the track or just cruisin. high compression because to run the cams i want CR must be raised(Toda Cs). when i step on the gas i want the car to MOVE. i have read the b16 has a better flow and also has dual springs.. while i could just go for the type r head my friend has done this and had good results and was wondering if anyone could relate.

00Red_SiR

If you search my name here, you'll see my build thread. If you use the FAQ link I posted above, there's a wealth of information from a lot of people who have built many different version of the motor you're interested in with good results. Often times, you get the information you seek, not only from asking but from looking and finding yourself as well.
If you do some reading here, you'll learn that the B16a and GSR heads flow virtually the same out of the box. The GSR head actually has some advantages over the B16a head, especially in what you want to build. Both the B16a and GSR heads have dual valve springs. The type R head just has a better valve job and the casting/core shift cleaned out of the port throat which allows it to flow better than a standard B16a head.

93gsrhatch_1

i think i am going to go with CTR pistons and a 1 or 2 layer head gasket. i am going to upgrade the IM to BLOX or AEBS. shot-peened rods and a S2 valve train with pro1's. i think this with a good tune(S300) i should be getting close to wheere i want to be.

Builda'Teg_92

^I really hope you clay this motor...compression isn't everything

DDTECH

I would recommend p30s instead of PCT's. I'd also recommend you go with a standard 3 layer HG. You have no need to shot-peen rods. If you plan on using stock rods, they are strong enough to handle whatever you plan on throwing at it. I would however , suggest a upgraded rod bolt since the motor will be apart.

A good valvetrain like the skunk2 pro series valve, supertech valve or something equal to should be good. Pro1's would be a good start...

93gsrhatch_1

i asked my homeboy who runs a shop here and he said the CTRs(with a triangle on the top) would be better for the compression. he also said that i would want to upgrade the rods i told him i thought OEM would be fine for my build but i think he might have been after more money... and yes i do agree about the rod bolts those along with headbolts will be replaced once i crack it open and start the build. right now i am still shopping for my parts... i dont want to buy one thing and put it on at time i want everything in and done all at once. i just picked up a blox IM via craigslist for 130.. so that will be a new edition.. anyone have inputs on what kind of intake/exhaust gaskets are the best.. i have a couple people saying hondata makes some superb gaskets anyones insight on this would be appreciated..

DDTECH

CTR pistons will need to be clayed and clearence, its very possible they will tap your GSR chambers in your head.. the piston to head height is very little, i'd suggest going with something alittle bit safer for your sake. The pistons already stick out of the sleeves by 0.006.

Compression isn't everything..and anyone who tells you otherwise needs to learn. Compression is 1/10th in the equation to actually making good useable power.

Go with p30's.. do NOT use CTR pistons.

People dont like to be choked, neither do motors.. Run a good exhaust system. at least 2.5''+ piping on the exhaust system and good header. The PLM's make good knock offs since it sounds like you're on some type of budget. Your intake should be around 3'' as well.. you'll want to match your intake and exhaust system..

93gsrhatch_1

good to know and yea i agree i have been looking at some bisi. and smsp headers seeing that i hear those names alot as top quality. the budget is there but i want to spend it right and not buy **** i doint need. i think the exhaust is 2.25 right now and i believe the cat back exhaust is 2.5. i have a passwordjdm whale ***** intake that will be changed out as well.thanks for your knowledge(allmotor).

93gsrhatch_1

i am going to schedule a dyno run at T1 so i can get my base numbers, here in the next 3 weeks. i will post results when i get them

Turbo vw

dont go with the CTR pistons i beleve there the heavyest b series piston honda has ever made yes thay rase the compreshen a crap lode but doing a set of p30s are itr pistons do just as good and you can always use a LS crank and rods and mille the block/head only why id concider using a ctr piston is if i was building a b16b ctr motor beond that there not really good for much else u can git the same comp with out using the boat anker piston and having to dill with claying the pistons to make sure u have enouf CC clearnce

blackguy503

...

93gsrhatch_1

word... also my tuner said i should upgrade my rods when switching out my pistons... i was thinkingsometihng like ls rods or something OEM being that i dont plan on boosting or spraying.. anyone else's input on this

Turbo vw

oem barings are good (as long as thay are from honda dont git the crap they sell at autozone are advance)

if u do LS rods u will haft to do a ls crank no biggie

you can upgrade ur rods if you want but in most cases a good set of ARP rod bolts and ur fine if u do upgrade id git a set of i beams to keep the roating mass down you can git thim from eagal manly crower brian crower.... its just money

93gsrhatch_1

right and before i go spending a bunch of money to build the motor i want to make sure it will hold up and not just blow up or something 6 months down the road. so i figured if i can just add them to the list and i wont have to worry about quality later on in the engines life. if i put the ls crank and rods in would that change the stroke of the motor or are they eqivualent to gsr rods??

Turbo vw

yes puting a ls crank and rods will make the stroke a little longer (be kinda like having a ls/v except the shoter deck hith and the stronger mains)

play around with this web sight it will help u understand the difrences in LS and gsr rod stroke and show u with what pistons the comp will be give are take a little bit
http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html