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Old 11-20-2005, 10:25 AM   #1
djbrandonr
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Default Balance Shaft Removal::HOW TO!!

So I decided to take some pics since I pulled these out the other day and couldnt find any write-ups w/ pics on how to do this. All in all it wasnt that hard (w/ a block out of the car) but sometime its just nice to see pics. BTW my helms was worthless IMO. Perhaps we can this stickie this to the FAQ's as well.

BTW my coochie hurts and I need a 56k beware cause I dont got DSL..lol..j/k

Tools:
Ratchet
10mm and 12mm socket
Flat tip screwdriver
Hammer
Balance Elim. Kit


So heres what were workin to today
Click the image to open in full size.

First you'll need to remove the crank pully, then this sprocket will be on the shaft, but Im not gonna put it back on just for the pic. I think removing this part was the hardest part of the job..
Click the image to open in full size.

First is the front balancer. If you look down youll see a hole.
Click the image to open in full size.

I dropped a screw driver in the hole to keep it from rotating while I loosened the bolt holding the pulley on..
Click the image to open in full size.

Then the pulley just comes off real easy
Click the image to open in full size.

Then I removed the bolts around the shaft and the auto tensioner as well
Click the image to open in full size.

On to the rear balancer. Remove the 2 bolts and one nut
Click the image to open in full size.

And the housing should come off with the tap of a hammer or pryed w/ a flat tip to look like this
Click the image to open in full size.

So here we are so far(plus the crank sprocket), we'll come back to the rear shaft pulley is a few. Remove the bolts that hold the oil pump to the block. Should be 4 bolts or so.
Click the image to open in full size.

Start prying around the housing to free the pump. Just work around it till it pops loose. Remeber as well that the crank/oil pump sprocket is keeping the housing on there tight. Initially I used my screwdriver to pry the sprocket off some. I the stopped and cussed a few chioce words at my Japper ancestors and used the backside of a hammer to pry some more till it was almost at the end.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now before you get the sprocket totally off you'll need to pull this metal guide out w/ a pair of pliers. If you dont...
Click the image to open in full size.

You wont be able to get this washer past it as you pull the oil pump off.
Click the image to open in full size.

With that done we should be able to pull the pump off at least an inch or so. Since we can were gonna pull the rear pulley off similar to the front, only the hole is between the pump and block.

*EDIT* There is actually a bolt to the right on the backside of the block that allows access to the hole in the shaft, but I didnt know till later on. So you can actually remove the pully before prying the housing.
Click the image to open in full size.

And off it comes
Click the image to open in full size.

Now we can pull the pump off. If you have yet to remove the lower sprocket fully I found the pump to be a good tool to yank forward and help knock it off the crank. How good that is for the pump I dont know, but it worked.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now we have acess to the shafts. Theres 2 bolt holding the front shaft in and nothin holding the rear one on.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

"Free at last, free at last" Just pull them out
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

The rear is on the right and front on the left, and now you done.
Click the image to open in full size.

This took just shy of an hour and prolly would be a bit tougher in the car. Hopefully I dont need to remind you that you should've bought the kit to plug everything up unless your a true DIY'r. Hope this helps and let any posting begin. If I forgot something lemme know.

Modified by djbrandonr at 9:56 PM 11/20/2005


Modified by djbrandonr at 10:48 PM 11/28/2005
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:34 AM   #2
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Default Re: HOW TO:Balance Shaft Removal (djbrandonr)

Good job man, this should be in the Faq's.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:37 AM   #3
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Default Re: HOW TO:Balance Shaft Removal (djbrandonr)

dont forget to turn the bearings 180 degrees to plug the oil ports Click the image to open in full size.
do you have to get the plugs pushed in by a mechine?
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:49 AM   #4
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Good post Click the image to open in full size.

Needs to be thrown in the FAQ's
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:51 AM   #5
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Default Re: HOW TO:Balance Shaft Removal (djbrandonr)

Cool, don't forget to show us how the installation of the kit goes. Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:54 AM   #6
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Default Re: HOW TO:Balance Shaft Removal (92hondalude)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92hondalude
do you have to get the plugs pushed in by a mechine?
Thats what they say. I dont have the kit yet actually. I just got the block the other day and got al excited for my build here after winter that I just started tare'n **** apart.
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Old 11-20-2005, 02:08 PM   #7
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Default Re: HOW TO:Balance Shaft Removal (djbrandonr)

i know its kind off topic..but what would happen if the balance shaft belt broke?? And could u still drive the car??? Is it possible to remove the belt with the motor still in the car???
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Old 11-20-2005, 03:07 PM   #8
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i removed the belt with the engine in a civic, with the lower timing belt cover on,

yes its possible, just make sure the car is off.
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Old 11-20-2005, 05:46 PM   #9
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i doubt you could do this in car....the shafts probably couldnt fit out.....but it may work...

good post though Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11-24-2005, 09:10 AM   #10
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nice diy...
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Old 09-01-2006, 03:40 PM   #11
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Default Re: (SB tuning)

All right lets finish this **** off. I finally got a half day off from my 7 day a week jobs.

Okay so you gotta have the balance shaft elim. kit to do this obviously. Now youre gonna need a press of some sort. If you lucky like me to have a neighbor/landlord that just so happens to be a blacksmith that has all the tools in the world you just might have one of these in the garage. Its a press, but doesnt require electricy or air.

Click the image to open in full size.

First I started w/ the oil pump and the balance shaft plugs. Like so..
Click the image to open in full size.

Press in the left one
Click the image to open in full size.

Press in the right
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

They recommend using loctite sleeve retainer if pressing these plugs into a used oil pump. Then you put on the bling blingin' rear balance shaft gearcase cover and the pump plugs are done.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now onto the girdle. The ones circled in red need to be removed. Remove the dowel pins sticking out w/ a pair of vise grips. Itll sandwich a bit, but thats okay and twist it till it comes out.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

On a side note if your a dumbass like I was, I was all excited about getting going on the kit that I didnt remove the main caps and pulled the first dowel outta the cap and found the plugs didnt fit. That is why. Nick @ kaizen was nice enough t assist me through my own mental retardation...lol...

So remove the one dowel on top and the 3 on the bottom.. Heres they are only to be replaced..
Click the image to open in full size.

By these..
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

The big one of the 4 goes in location "C" (see girdle pic) The other 3 are in the "D" spot...hmmm to bad there isnt a "G"spot in this install...lol...

So now we press those in
Click the image to open in full size.

Till theyre all in like so..
Click the image to open in full size.

Now plug "C" should be pressed in so that no more than .360" is protruding and "D" is no more than .405" out so that the main caps can seat properly. So I measure..

And its "money Mikey, your so f'n money"
Click the image to open in full size.

Then I tapped the main caps back on to make sure everything is flush and pressed in far enough
Click the image to open in full size.

See no gaps in seating
Click the image to open in full size.

Lastly we need to block an oil passage in the block that runs to one of the shafts.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

The top center hole. For reference the back of the block is at the top of the pic and flywheel would be to the right.

So you go in w/ a 11/32 drill bit into the hole. Youre really just reaming the whole out IMO not tearin through mass amounts of metal. Drill till you get to the back of the bearing..

Then you bust out the supplied tap..and yes it really is shiny as excalibur..
Click the image to open in full size.

You use a 12pt. 10mm socket and tap the hole you just drilled enough to get the supplied plug in. Sealent recommended.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now you done. Overall this is pretty easy install w/ the block out. You could probably do this w/ the block in, but Im not sure if you could get the shafts out. Difficulty wise its more of a PITA to raise my car up a few inches for winter than it was to do this kit.

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Old 09-01-2006, 03:51 PM   #12
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There have been a lot of great posts in this forum today, including this one. Now we need the moderators to start adding to the resource threads.
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Old 09-01-2006, 04:06 PM   #13
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Default Re: (DIRTYsouthBB6)

I sent a request for this to be in FAQs. Damn good writeup bro!
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Old 09-01-2006, 04:22 PM   #14
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Default Re: (DIRTYsouthBB6)

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIRTYsouthBB6
There have been a lot of great posts in this forum today, including this one. Now we need the moderators to start adding to the resource threads.
damn right, getting back to where we were a few years ago.
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98vtec

damn right, getting back to where we were a few years ago.
It's all up to us. Click the image to open in full size.

I wish I didn't have 56k BS right now so I could see these pics. Looks like an awesome write-up. Click the image to open in full size. Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-01-2006, 10:50 PM   #16
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Pretty Informative. i didnt relize that kit came with all the stuff internally for the motor, i thought it was just the pump plugs. it might acctually be worth dishin out the money for the kit.

great how-to. im about to start tearing down this h22 i have had in teh garage for like 38748724 years and do something with it i guess lol
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Old 09-03-2006, 02:49 PM   #17
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Default Re: HOW TO:Balance Shaft Removal (bigz187)

My balance shaft belt broke a few weeks ago, and it also damaged the timing belt, so the shop told me to install a new timing belt and not to replace the secondary belt.

Now, I am torn between people telling me to put the balance shaft belt back on, and those telling me to get the kit to completely remove it.

My car is out of commision as it's getting ready for boost, but with turbo and potential vibration...is this a good combination?


Great write up Click the image to open in full size. Wish my neighbour had the tools too. Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-03-2006, 02:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LudeyKrus
Good post Click the image to open in full size.

Needs to be thrown in the FAQ's
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Old 09-04-2006, 12:08 AM   #19
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Default Re: HOW TO:Balance Shaft Removal (-Bionic-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by -Bionic-
My balance shaft belt broke a few weeks ago, and it also damaged the timing belt, so the shop told me to install a new timing belt and not to replace the secondary belt.

Now, I am torn between people telling me to put the balance shaft belt back on, and those telling me to get the kit to completely remove it.

My car is out of commision as it's getting ready for boost, but with turbo and potential vibration...is this a good combination?


Great write up Click the image to open in full size. Wish my neighbour had the tools too. Click the image to open in full size.
You can run it with just the balance shaft belt removed.
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:11 AM   #20
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Whats the Benifits/Difference between just removing the balance shaft belt or doing the balance shaft elimination kit?
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Old 09-04-2006, 07:43 AM   #21
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more oil pressure becuase none of the oil is being used to lubricate the shafts and less rotational assembly loss.
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Old 09-04-2006, 07:57 AM   #22
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Default Re: (SB tuning)

& less weight on your front end for better balance & acceleration
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Old 09-04-2006, 07:59 AM   #23
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Default Re: (2lude4u)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2lude4u
& less weight
your right, about 22lbs lightwer w/o the shafts and all the crap that runs them Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:17 PM   #24
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Default Re: HOW TO:Balance Shaft Removal (92hondalude)

Good write-up, thanks for sending me the link. Click the image to open in full size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92hondalude
dont forget to turn the bearings 180 degrees to plug the oil ports Click the image to open in full size.
do you have to get the plugs pushed in by a mechine?
No need to rotate the bearings with our kit, the plugs block the oil supply to the bearings.
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Old 09-05-2006, 04:37 PM   #25
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i've been running this kit since january, great stuff Click the image to open in full size.
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