smokin rubber

your bearings should feel loose if the axles are not tight

Honda318dx

Bookler will be the first to tell you his mechanical knowledge is, um, not there.... So.. Just point to the numbers that are screwed up.. I really think your rods are stripped out..

nonsense

here's some more brainstorming ....

something's bent (i.e. tie rod)

the hole where the tie rod bolts to the knuckle worn out of round, thus causing extra play

The rack bushings are shot causing excesive play

The rack itself is shot (or way out of adjustment)

I'd imagine that the last 3 would be noticable even with new rod ends though.

ITC Racer

Are you using OEM tie rod ends or aftermarket?

All rod ends/tie rod ends have a specified range of motion where, if exceeded during suspension travel, may cause the ball to try to pop out of the socket. Also as mentioned above, some of the plastic socket inserts may not hold up to racing use.

Solracer

Have you swaped your upper control arms? aka have the left on the right and the right on the left???

00R101

OK here is some brainstorming - it may be totally off the wall. To cause failure after one session we must be experiencing some drastic physical contact. If we rule out gators/curb hits. what is moving fast near the tie rod end? The wheel - tire combo. What size wheels are you running? What offset? Is the car straight or are you compensating for a tweaked chassis with odd toe settings (one side nearer the end of the adjustment range than the other?)

speedracer33

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bookler will be the first to tell you his mechanical knowledge is, um, not there.... So.. Just point to the numbers that are screwed up.. I really think your rods are stripped out.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The problem is entirely at 13. That is where the ball and cup keeps getting screwed.

speedracer33

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITC Racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you using OEM tie rod ends or aftermarket?

All rod ends/tie rod ends have a specified range of motion where, if exceeded during suspension travel, may cause the ball to try to pop out of the socket. Also as mentioned above, some of the plastic socket inserts may not hold up to racing use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

OEM, and to answer Dave's questions, I haven't swapped upper control arms, but I have the Skunk2 adjustable ones to set camber.

B18C5 EH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you swaped your upper control arms? aka have the left on the right and the right on the left???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now this is a damn good idea... If when you (or whoever) installed the UCA's, put them on reverse then that would change the suspension geometry.

To clarify, the right and left are different correct?
But easy to install reverse...
I can't remember when or if I swapped mine to the ITR UCA's

Lets explore this option....

6ghatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5 EH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Now this is a damn good idea... If when you (or whoever) installed the UCA's, put them on reverse then that would change the suspension geometry.
..</TD></TR></TABLE>

A lot of people swap upper control arms to gain some caster, that alone will not cause tie rod ends to fail.

B18C5 EH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A lot of people swap upper control arms to gain some caster, that alone will not cause tie rod ends to fail.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's right, I rember reading that now, ok.

****, good idea though.

Any other suspension components easily/possibly reversed?

B18C5 EH

Ok, so what if the tie rod ends themselves were reversed? Possible? What would happen if they were?

speedracer33

The tie rod ends have a "L" and "R" on them, so they are not reversed...

B18C5 EH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The tie rod ends have a "L" and "R" on them, so they are not reversed...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok.

The process of elimination sux.

We'll figure it out eventually.

Honda318dx

Bookler, tie rod ends just do not wear out that quickly, no matter what you do.. Drop the car off at James Evan's shop and just have him fix it..

Dc2Teggie95

is this looking pretty bad?

VTECIntegra9

holy **** yes - and holy 8yr old thread

speedjunkie_g35

What's wrong with bumping a old thread? He obviously is having the same issue the op has so its related. Maybe op can come back and let us know what fixed this problem.

smokin rubber

he did not ask a question, just posted some pics of old worn out parts.

Lo-Buck EF

well, i see bookler at the track all the time. i'll ask him how he fixed his issue......

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

He's not obviously having the same issue. He just has bad inner tie rods. We don't know if he's eating them up like OP was. **** my tie rod looks almost that bad LOL. I didn't post pics in an unrelated thread though.

Did OP ever figure this out LOL, I'm curious now.

I can't stand when someone posts a technical issue, resolves it and doesn't update the thread.

Lo-Buck EF

the OP did for sure. i see him at the track with the same car.