Hub removal and wheel stud replacement with slide hammer

[bfitz]

First off, this is for an ITR

So, I came away from the Topeka Divisional with a couple broken front wheel studs. I did some searching and found that I need to remove the hub and that I should be able to do that with a slide hammer. Last night, I borrowed a slide hammer from O'Reilly's and went to work. After a lot of banging, I'm so far left with just a sore hand.

Question 1: Is it necessary to remove the rotor from the hub before removing it? I couldn't see any reason why, and the retaining bolts didn't budge with a quick try, so I left them on. (If they do, what's the best way to get these out? It seems a bit odd that they use a phillips head here.)

Question 2: Should it really be this hard to remove the hub with a slide hammer? I maybe moved it 1/16" after all that banging. Any tips?

Thanks,
Brian

[.RJ]

Uh oh... you do not want to use a slide hammer for this at all.

Yes you should remove the rotor. You'll need to use an impact driver to get the screws out. If the rotor is stuck, thread some m6 bolts into the other 2 holes and that will force it off the hub without the hassles of pounding on it w/ a hammer.

After that, remove the whole knuckle and take it to a machine shop with a new wheel bearing ($55 from honda, new clip is a few $ also) and say "fix it". These things need to be pressed in and out, and the wheel bearing is a good idea while its apart. I hope all that banging you did did not trash the hub too, as they arent cheap from honda ($150/ea i think).

[thawley]

Originally Posted by .RJ

After that, remove the whole knuckle and take it to a machine shop with a new wheel bearing ($55 from honda, new clip is a few $ also) and say "fix it"....

Ditto that. I did it a while ago using a friend's hydraulic press, and that is the only way to go. It's not worth buying your own press for. But it does want a press to be done right...

[bfitz]

So, no-go on the slide hammer... It seemed like a better alternative for getting things done in an evening. The adaper bolts securely to the hub using the 3 remaining studs, and it's pulling straight out, so I don't see why it would damage the hub. The bearing...possibly.

I took a look through the FSM on removing the knuckle. Is the ball-joint removal tool readily available? To avoid stranding my wife any longer than necessary, (I need a third car.) let me know if there's anything else I'll likely need:

1. Phillips bit for impact driver
2. Ball-joint removal tool
3. Wheel bearing and clip
4. M6 bolts to jack rotor
5. New studs and lug nuts (already have these)

Thanks,
Brian

[.RJ]

For the balljoints, go to Autozone and find the thing that looks like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...36861

Its about $8. Make sure you loosen, but do not remove the castle nuts - if you take them off, you run the risk of mushrooming the stud and trashing it.

[R you serious]

ive done it before with a slide hammer, its nearly unbearable.
a mini sledge works wonders on the ball joints

[bfitz]

So it's possible How long did it take you to get it off? Did the bearing survive? Were you able to reinstall by impacting the spindle nut?

My fingers still don't feel quite right, and I wasn't even successful.

Brian

[R you serious]

i remember it took a long time, you really have to have someone large wailing on that thing to make anysort of progress.
bearing was pressed back on with it as well.
i highly recommend you dont waste your time with this technique

[mstewar]

seriously man, use the press..

[rex_boy]

Originally Posted by thawley

Ditto that. I did it a while ago using a friend's hydraulic press, and that is the only way to go. It's not worth buying your own press for. But it does want a press to be done right...

I bought a press for $100 at harbor freight and have used it several times.

2 pairs or knukles with wheel bearings and 16 studs.

1 Quaife diff that I took to a machine shop the first time and they put them on backwards.

but serioursly take there advice and have them pressed on.

[bfitz]

Ok, I have three ball joints off. How do I remove the knuckle from the drive shaft? The FSM just says to remove it with a plastic hammer...

Brian

[.RJ]

Returned your PM

[743power]

I've successfully used "the slide hammer" (dun dun dun) method before. The pinky side of my hand bone was brusied for a week or so, but I was able to do it myself in 2 hours for both sides.

Bearings were fine for another 15k street miles or so, when I had new ones pressed in (with a press) just as preventative maintenance. I gave the guy at the transmission shop $25 and he did both bearings for me. I also asked him to unscrew the dust shields, but I think the screws wouldn't come off because they are certainly still on the knuckles. . .

If you can deal without the car for another day, just pull the knuckles off and bring them to a known competent shop with a press and have it done right.

[bimmerboodle]

It is not"you might" but you WILLmushroom the ball joint stud. I have done this and was forced to grind the threads down temporarily till I could replace them. Stoopid ball joints.

[DMF]

I've used the slide hammer trick twice. I didn't have a problem either time (I think some of you guys need to hit up the gym ) I had them apart in a matter of seconds!

Now the first time I did this was for a car I didn't care about and the second was a last minute attempt to get a car on track (got the hub apart and two studs changed and back together in about 5 minutes, he made it to grid and everything!).

Now for peace of mind, if it were a race car or any car I cared about, and I had more than 5 minutes to get it done, I would get a new bearing and have it done with a press.

[LX4CYL]

What exactly is wrong with use the slide hammer? I replaced all 4 wheel studs on the front right of my daily driver, using a slide hammer, in under an hour (and it was the first time doing it myself). I glopped on some wheel bearing grease on the bearing inner race, before carefully lining the hub back up with the bearing in the knuckle, then used the spindle nut and an impact wrench to press it back in. Few months later and no probs with the wheel bearing