wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I've always wondered about the feasibility of running methanol as a primary fuel. I know methanol motors require big p2w clearances and huge ring gaps which leads to rapid oil breakdown but it would be so easy to make huge power for less cost per gallon than 93 octane.

only if there was a way to tighten up clearances on a methanol motor... one can dream lol

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

And that link with the 526hp motor blew up within 6 months because he cracked a sleeve. so if his numbers are accurate and the correction factor wasn't fudged and he's at low elevation with low humidity then he was way past the reliable limits of 93 octane pump gas. I bet he had a huge detonation event and that's what broke the sleeve.

I could probably make ridiculous numbers on 93 octane for a few pulls, doesn't mean the motor will stay together for any reasonable amount of time as the load an engine sees on a dyno and the load it sees on the street are entirely different... namely on the dyno the car doesn't have to pull around its 2000lbs+ of weight plus the weight of the driver... up hills, etc.

that 84mm 512hp motor is much more believable, although I didn't see anywhere where it said 93 octane pump gas. larger displacement will make more power on a given fuel type than a smaller displacement motor. so really he wasn't stressing the internals as badly nor was he stretching the limits of pump gas as bad as the other guy.

I miss when regular gas stations used to offer 100+ octane at the pumps. I think there are a few stations around that still sell Sunoco oxygenated 100 octane. it's not much more than 93 and you get awesome performance because the fuel is supplying its own oxygen on top of what the motor ingests.

for ultimate knock resistance you still can't beat leaded fuels.

tetraethyllead is second to none when it comes to knock prevention. back in the day all pump gas had it blended in because old motors had soft valve seats that needed the lead to reduce wear. also older motors had horrible fuel and ignition systems, horribly imprecise machining and casting methods and camshaft designs were very poor and those old motors actually ran a lot of compression and as such the motors were very prone to knocking.

only until the 70s when engine technology became more advanced (harder valve seats, more precision components, better fuel and ignition systems) and engine theory was more understood along with more advanced and consistent fuels as well as the EPA figuring out it was a neurotoxin was it removed from fuels. in addition that was around the time when manufacturers started putting catalytic converters and o2 sensors on cars, two things tel is very good at rapidly destroying. tel in itself was an octane booster in addition to being a knock preventative... also if a car was poorly tuned tel was notorious for fouling spark plugs left and right

on top of that ethanol was known even then as a cheap way to boost octane ratings but tel was marketed due to the money the patent holders were making.

most autoparts stores carry tetraethyllead substitutes that are o2 sensor friendly. the substitute still allows for increased knock/detonation threshold. on really hot days or days I was going to do drift events I would put a bottle in my s13 along with 93 octane and it did a great job of eliminating knock. it also allowed me to lean the motor out more and run a tad more timing.

so that could be an option for you on days you want to safely make a bit more power or if on really hot and humid days you're having mild knock issues.

also aviation gas is a cheap option as well. some avgas is leaded and oxygenated or one or the other depending on what they have with a minimum of 100 octane. it's cheap because it isn't subject to any taxation like fuels used on the street (same way people have been fined for using tax free off-road diesel in street trucks, after all on road diesel is green and off-road is red plol, spot fuel checks are a bitch. when we towed our horse trailer cross country we had a 150 gallon transfer tank in the bed full of off-road diesel. little did the dot people know we had a line tee'd to that tank with a switch to swap between tanks. nothing like saving almost 75 cents per gallon on diesel lol)
if you're buddies with someone at a local airport they'll let you drive onto the tarmac and fill up. sometimes what I do is bring cans and tell them it's for a private aircraft at a private strip that doesn't have any fuel at the moment. works every time.

some people even blend methanol straight into pump gas. it takes some work to get the ratio right but once you do the results are great. plus the gasoline works as a topend lubricant so you don't have the issues of methanol use leading to engine wear (methanol by itself has almost no lubricating properties so people that run it have to add a topend lubricant) and you also don't have to worry about the typical fuel system corrosion methanol causes when ran pure. the amount of methanol one typically adds to a tank isn't enough to cause these issues but you should monitor engine health if doing this

with an octane rating of around 113 and a cost of 2.55 per gallon if you get a 55 gallon drum it's an affordable octane booster.

also with running water meth you can 70% methanol in your injection system safely. This would give you more performance out of a given injection rate over the typical 50/50 ratio. 70% methanol to 30% distilled water is about the limit before you have to worry about the mixture catching fire accidentally. any higher concentration and the methanol can catch fire in it's tank. the problem here is methanol burns clear so you wouldn't know you're in trouble till it's too late. Again buying a 55 gallon drum of the stuff makes it cheap, so you could still use methanol injection and play around with adding small amounts of methanol to your 93.

then there's always the tried and true diy octane booster toluene.

sorry for the slight random off topic-ness but these are just a few easy examples of how to squeeze out a little extra power when using 93 octane.

torkh22a

Lol sometimes I'd like to know how many people actually read those novel posts of yours

torkh22a

This thread needs MOAR PICTURES! I'll start posting some of mine once I get a couple more chassis related items taken care of

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I know right? everything I post I do so to educate, inform, and help members. I'm simply here to take what I know and have experienced and help others in the same way I was helped when I was first starting with building cars and bikes and such. and I break it up into paragraphs so you aren't reading some gigantic block of words... White space lol

TravisBiggie

Your posts are awesome and full of information!! Thanks!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

yea like i said those are just some of the tried and true methods of cheating on 93. some are cheaper than others but all work

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

torco accelerator is a legitimate octane booster, all the **** you buy in stores is junk. we've used it in our z06 with good results. it's supposed to be o2 sensor safe but after a few rounds we had a sensor fail. not sure if it was the torco or not... torco said it was likely just the sensor failing

LightningTeg

Got a new mic for he gopro. Videos sound way better now

Keo00civic

iTrader: (1)

Who's making big power on oem main bolts besides that car that just set the new record for non vtec?

rel

I love this thread, new setup post coming

LightningTeg

What do you consider big power?

Keo00civic

iTrader: (1)

Anything over like 750. Trying to figure out wats best for my ls/vtec build.

7passu

I have a 96 civic hatch
B20B low compression all stock
b18b ls intake manifold
880cc high impedance injectors
340 fuel pump
top mount cast manifold
holest HE351CW
3" I/C & pipes and full exhaust
93 pump & AEM water meth 50/50
Chrome

not dynoed yet but will soon. I daily this right now and its a fun setup!

tnk

iTrader: (1)

what part of MS? would love to see this beast

7passu

im in the jackson area tnk

slayer423

Should be a 10.7- 10.9 in the quarter.

7.1 at 103mph eighth mile and still a lot more boost and rpm to add in 2nd with third and 4th almost capped(6.8/9 is def in the picture with a 4.5 330ft)

Full dash, full interior minus seats, Slicks, Enkei rpf1s in the rear,non vtec

91 octane with a Devil's Own Meth kit "D010" nozzle spraying vp M1 methanol

-p75 head with stock ports and stock cam regrinds (power never drops till 8200 but it doesn't really shoot up either)
-b18b1 block with wiseco 8.3:1 pistons and a .040 headgasket
-gsr tranny with a quaife
-custom 11 blade billet 60-1 ind. wheel with custom aka secret turbine specs(smaller than stg5 though)

slayer423

This guy tried to steal the show from me hahaha. I took it back though

I let go on this one, I've already been kicked out like 3 times and don't want to get banned but I got a better 330ft at 4.65 which should put me at 7.0 1/8


My2step parameters if anyone is curious. I haven't gotten anything below 1.65 since I set up this combo and only 10psi in tires
Max Speed: 20mph(this is when the ecu turns off the 2step, with it around 10mph I was getting high 1.6s, lil more spin no bueno)
activate at 6420 rpm
Launch at 6850 rpm

Fuel add: 150
Timing: 0(I leave this alone)

And I just barely trigger the 2step and breath into the gas. I don't go full throttle and I don't smack the rev limiter, so driving skill is still very important.

slayer423

yea me wats up

LightningTeg

Good driving

LightningTeg

boosted94gsr

^^^ lol nice!

slayer423

thanks!! the 6.9 has proven a lot harder to get though, hopefully at this week's Test n Tune i can do it... we will see

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I might head down man. Your car is moving I would love to check it out. Thursday right?

b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

Lightning haha awesome dude !! When I make 400hp I'm doing that with my dad my civic with 250 hp he thinks is a blast to drive around!