professorman

changing rotors on other cars are easy, because you just pull two screws and slide it off. On the Accord, the design was a poor choice, because it make it hell to change it.

This a great write up by the way. Should be a sticky or Frequently Asked Questions.

soon2bdropped

on other cars rotors and hub is like one peice built together.. so i gotta undo 4 front bolt and 4 back bolts and the rotor comes off.. and does it come off with the wheel bearing or attached?

kcem1

how long does it take to do the fronts noramally?

ECX

FAQ this bad boy, that's if it hasn't been already. Excellent, thorough writeup.

boricuacvc

tried to do my brakes at home. sucks that one of the bolts broke, and another stripped, so i was stuk takin it to a shop and paying $200 to get it done. but at least i got it done.

ECX

^
Which bolt(s) did you strip? I remember when I was changing pads awhile back I ended up stripping 3 or 4 caliper assembly bolts. It sucked, it took me forever to find 4. The dealership had only one, and took me forever to get the other 3 at different auto places i.e. Advanced, Autozone.
I'll be more careful with it next time.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ECX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FAQ this bad boy, that's if it hasn't been already. Excellent, thorough writeup.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's been in the FAQ since I first started gathering useful links

tiburonmoo

I now hate Honda for doing this. I'm having such a hard time with the 4 front hub bolts(just stripped one, any ideas?) and since I don't have one of those offset wrenches I can't figure out how on earth I'm ever going to get those back bolts off.

This is one really well done DIY write-up BTW. Thanks!

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tiburonmoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I now hate Honda for doing this. I'm having such a hard time with the 4 front hub bolts(just stripped one, any ideas?)</TD></TR></TABLE>

6 point socket, 18" long breaker bar (and a steel pipe if you need even more leverage)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tiburonmoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and since I don't have one of those offset wrenches I can't figure out how on earth I'm ever going to get those back bolts off.!</TD></TR></TABLE>

un-stake the axle nut, remove the axle nut, take the pin out of the lower ball joint, loosen the castle nut, pop the ball joint free from the lower control arm, remove the castle nut, lift the knuckle so the lower ball joint comes out of the lower control arm, remove the axle from the hub, set the knuckle back down with the lower ball joint in the lower control arm. now you have total access to those four bolts on the back of the knuckle that hold the bearing to the knuckle.

The-Kid

I'm having trouble in the front brakes. I took out the spindle nut and everything. Now I have to get those 4 bolt in the back that is holding the wheel bearing in place right?

All my tools don't fit. I even got the same wrench as the guide. HELP ME!

soon2bdropped

well u gotta take the tierod end off from the knuckle and i removed my lowerballjoint so i have more room to work and also of course pull the axle out of the hub.. also theres 4 bolt on the very front of the hub/rotor

i attempted to do this on my friends car and we end up taking it to a shop..

tech8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soon2bdropped &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i attempted to do this on my friends car and we end up taking it to a shop..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, that's what I did years ago. I was going to try with a friend, but later said I'll just bring to a shop.

The-Kid

I juse bought a Haynes service manual (I KNOW! it sucks a little)and it tells you what to take off and how to do it. Best $18 i've spent. Can't wait to test other stuff. Let me tell you how it goes.

The-Kid

I need help. I can't take out the CV from the hub. I hit it with a rubber mallet. Really hard and still wont budge. Help me!!! What do I do.

soon2bdropped

i hope ur not trying to take it out with the wheel straight.. turn the wheel all the way and try hitting it..

The-Kid

I did. I turn the wheel all the way. And still won't... Dang it. help.

EDIT i got the CV from the hub. Took a lot of force. We had to use a hammer to push it out. (i'm replacing the CV too) Now I can't seperate the wheel bearing that is holding the rotors from the hub. HELP ME! how do i take it out? I think it's rusted on. Will PB blaster take care of the job?


Modified by The-Kid at 2:29 PM 4/22/2007

mrBlaQ

I've started gathering the knowledge needed to change out the rotors and pads on all 4 wheels on my '01 Accord EX. We've spent some time on the rotor bolts.... We drilled one wheel's out and where able to use an impact driver on the other 3 after soaking them in PB Blaster. I'm now ready to tackle the spindle nuts on the front two. Is it safe to assume that they'd require the same ft-lbs torque that your '97s spindle nuts need?

Also, I've been told that rotors fresh from the factory have some sort of rust protecting coating on them that I'll have to clean off right before installing? Is this true? If so, clean them with what?

Thanks mucho!

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrBlaQ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... on my '01 Accord EX... I'm now ready to tackle the spindle nuts on the front two. Is it safe to assume that they'd require the same ft-lbs torque that your '97s spindle nuts need?</TD></TR></TABLE>Beginning in '98 you no longer have to remove the big axle nut when you're replacing the rotors. But it's torque is probably about the same?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrBlaQ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I've been told that rotors fresh from the factory have some sort of rust protecting coating on them that I'll have to clean off right before installing? Is this true? If so, clean them with what?</TD></TR></TABLE>It's like a greasy waxy coating. You can use most any solvent, brake cleaner, throttlebody cleaner mineral spirits, kerosine, etc. Brake cleaner probably works best.

mrBlaQ

Are you certain about the spindle nut? I'm rather positive that this nut is holding on a larger formed 'washer' (for lack of a better term) that overlaps the center hole of the rotor. I may just take the wheel off and grab a pic of this.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrBlaQ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you certain about the spindle nut?</TD></TR></TABLE>

positive... JimBlake is correct

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">positive... JimBlake is correct </TD></TR></TABLE>LOL I'll have to save that quote!

I've had the rotors off our '98 & they're normal like that picture. Often the rotor sticks to the hub (#3) with rust. Use a hammer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrBlaQ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you certain about the spindle nut? I'm rather positive that this nut is holding on a larger formed 'washer' (for lack of a better term) that overlaps the center hole of the rotor. I may just take the wheel off and grab a pic of this.</TD></TR></TABLE>I doubt anyone would have installed the older suspension onto a 2001??

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL I'll have to save that quote!</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha

jpopvriens

Before I get started....Can anyone confirm whether or not the "HUB" nut is LH thread or RH. it looks to me from the pics in the initial thread that it is LH.

TouringAccord

it's a standard RH thread

righty tighty, lefty loosey

dang_erous

i did this awhile back it does suck to get the rotors off.....