wateriercub

so, the story,
I know its long winded, but please bear with me,
my 01 crv was totaled about 2 months back. Since then I've completely gutted it and shipped off the shell to the salvage yard. Here we are two months later, and I have a blown head gasket on my 94 civic ex.
Here is where it gets interesting. I have a good B20z2 (01crv) and a good Ls transmission (97 integra) and my daily (94 civic W/ blown gasket). I would much rather drop $3-400 and B-swap the civic than to drop $2-300 in order to to do the head gasket on the D16 the right way. ie. machine the head, new studs, multi layer gasket. I have plans for the D16, just don't want to mess with it right now. This is my daily and the only vehicle that can physically make it out of my driveway with more than 1/2 inch of snow on the ground. I only have 2 weekends in November to get the swap right before I end up with a huge headache.
I currently have:
2 Obd2 ecus for the B20 (all known good)
1 p28 0bd1 ecu (stock, in the civic)
1 intact obd1 D16Z6 harness (in the civic now)
1 set obd2 ecu plugs (cut 10 inches from ecu)
1 obd2 B20 engine harness (cut at the firewall)

everything is 5 speed manual so I'm guessing I shouldn't have much of a problem there provided I grab the right axles.

What i need to know is am I better off trying to run the B20 on the stock civic ecu, or is there an efficient way to get the ecu that originally ran the B20 wired into the civic.

So far all I have been able to find are complete harnesses ranging upwards of $400 and ecu jumper harnesses going from vehicle side obd2 to an obd1 ecu. It seems to me that it would just be smarter to run the engine on its native ecu, I just don't have the time right now to sit down and re-pin the entire harness, and I don't have the cash to toss at a whole new swap harness.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Robantobe

I'm going through the same issue almost...I have a 91 Integra 5 speed GS and I brought it with a B20Z2 swap that came out of a 99 CR-V an I have electrical issues that is terrible to discuss!! I need help to bro !! What ecu # you showing for your b20z2,?

wateriercub

The solution I ended up going with was to use the obd1 harness from the recipient car, and a p74 ecu that I had reflashed to run the b20. There are a couple of services out there that will ship you a flashed ecu for less than $200. I got mine custom flashed (ie sensor deletes, and 2 step ignition control) for about $150. I did have to do a little bit of "hacking and splicing" to get the obd1 harness to accept the new engine. Injector pigtails, and alternator pigtail had to be swapped over, and I had to add an additional wire to the distributor pigtail in order to get the tachometer to register correctly.

I do have old notes from this swap, but not easily accessible at the moment.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Why the heck did you cut the engine harness at the firewall? You only had to remove two nuts to pull it through and it’s the ideal harness for a b20 swap in an “EK” chassis. But you have a 94, so I digress. You’re not going to make the ecu happy in your car without a lot of extra work.Spend $100 docketing and chipping your P28. Rep in a couple of connectors on the engine side of the Z6 harness and is an adapter harness for the distributor or find an obd1 distributor. You’ll also need an B18A/B intake manifold/injector set.

$400 is a steal for a brand new engine harness, btw. They don’t get the respect they deserve with regards to how important they are to a well running engine. Look up Monotech on ebay, he is doing some very oem level work at affordable prices.

edit: Nevermind, old post. Hope she’s still running like a champ.

wateriercub

B20 harness was cut at the firewall on the donor car. (A totaled crv, and the engine had to come out very quickly) I've actually had the car running quite well for well over a year now. I used the oem harness from the EJ1 chassis and swapped over the pigtails for the injectors and alternator. Then had a P74 reflashed to handle the b20 (tuned for the oem b20 injectors). The p74 plugs right into the obd1 socket on the civic and actually runs the fuel trim a "tiny" bit rich with the tune.

GIZZ - EXV

Run a bone stock manual p75 or p74 ecu. Bump the fuel pressure 5-10 psi, check your afr to see where its happy. Done. Alternatively 310cc injectors plus stock fuel pressure has also worked for me.

I've done this so many times and the completely stock ecu runs completely stock. For a bigger vtec build i've run all motor 12's on stock unopened p30 and p72, it's possible.