[FAQ] How-To: Install Omni (and other) Coilover Sleeves. Part 1 of 2.

[Deemeetree]

This write-up is showing how to install Coilover Sleeves. All sleeves are pretty much the same. You have the sleeve, 1 or 2 perches, o-rings, and the coils. This kit is the Omni Sleeve kit. Bought at http://www.kteller.com for $177 shipped. This the kit: Step 1: While the suspension is still mounted, get a 5mm Allen key and insert it into the slot. Get a 12mm box wrench and crack the bolt loose while holding the Allen key in place. It might take some force, but my 215lb pushing on it broke it loose. Step 2: Just loosen the 2 bolts holding the entire assembly to the towers. Don't remove it, just crack them loose. Yay! I just found out that my passenger side CV Joint is also shot, just like my driver side. 2 new axles for me...sometimes soon. Step 3: and Using a 17mm 6-point socket and a 17mm box wrench, loosen the damper fork from the control arm. Use some force but be careful. Step 4: and Loosen the 2 12mm bolts that hold the brake lines in place. Step 5: Forgot to picture the bolt, it's a 14mm 6-point socket. Remove the bolt from the rear of the fork, completely, and drop the fork down. This is what it looks like removed. Step 6: Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the assembly in place and pull out. This is what it looks like removed. Step 7: Use the mighty compressor and compress the spring. Make sure you compress enough. The more the better the less chance of the tophat flying away into the sunset. I rented this compressor from AutoZone for $42. At the end, it's free due to the refund when you bring it back. Step 8: You'll see that upper washer come loose after the spring has been compressed enough. Hold the Allen slot with the 5mm Allen key and remove the nut with the 12mm box wrench. Step 9: Disassembled. The nut comes off, then the upper washer, then the tophat, then a rubber boot with a metal sleeve, then another washer. Remember the order they go in. Step 10: Cut the OEM bumpstop in half, leaving the beefier part on. Step 11: My kit came with enough o-rings to use 2 on each strut. Lube them up a little with some grease and apply them. One on top and one on bottom. Step 12: Apply a little lube on the inside of the sleeve and slide it on. Step 13: Almost assembled. Make sure the sleeve sits on the lower cup/hat appropriately. Step 14: Assembly. Oh yes, I'm not having anymore nightmares (hopefully) by using some anti-seize on ALL the bolts I removed. Step 15: Anti-seize the threads and bolt back together. You don't need to bolt down tight, just enough. Leave the final tighting for the end when it's mounted to the tower. Step 16: Anti-seize on assembly bolts, tighten down. Installed. Stocker. Slamz0id. I actually have another 1.5"-2" lower that I can go. Before you start flaming, remember, there's lots of people out there with OEM struts, even some Moderators . So don't flame, please. I used the Anti-Seize on ALL bolts that I removed. The Damper Fork bolt, the bolt that holds the fork together to the strut, the bolts that hold the brake lines in place, EVERYTHING. I also used PB Blaster, ahead of time. Soaked EVERYTHING I was going to break loose a day before. So that might of helped. Part 2 of 2, the rear install, will be done this weekend. Thank you.

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[Redline96LX]

Thank you. Nice DIY. Good job, you did a PROPER install. To the FAQ thread with you!
Looks good. Feel free to reply later with a review of how they affected your ride, and how you like them.

[dohcdelsol]

Great write-up!!!

I was gonna ask you how do u know where to put the bump stock on the new shock (position wise) then i realized that u just cleaned up the old one. Nicely Done

[Deemeetree]

The ride feels great. A bit stiffer than stock. A little too low to drive around like that. ANYTHING appraching an incline/decline or an uneven bump on the road scrapes the bottom lip under the bumper. I might have to raise it to probably a finger gap, until I get some 15s.

So far so good. Alignment isn't that out of it, getting one this weekend.

Makes me drive slower, so that's a good thing. Not that I speed, I don't go over 70 MPH. Now, I only go 50-60 MPH (55 zone). I guess it'll make me save some more gas now.

[DOHCter]

That's a pretty good how 2.. Thumbs up... If I didn't already know how to do that, I'd be happy that you posted this.. But I know already.. How do you like the Omni coilover sleeves??? I'm gonna get the full suspension for my civic

[Deemeetree]

Thanks for the replies so far.

[NstyGrnHatch]

good write up

[Archidictus]

Damn, Dimi; keeping busy, eh? Nice write-up.

[thrty8street]

nice, lets see part 2

[hawjboi]

nice write up...but i dont see the reason for the o-rings..i mean as soon as you slide the sleeve on wouldn't the first 0-ring slide down to the bottom o-ring...even if you use grease??? the rings are supposed to help the sleeve from rocking back and forth but if the top o-ring moves to the bottom with the bottom o-ring what is the point of the o-rings then?

[cappa]

Are you using the rings on the bottom of the rears? If I was you I would cut the spring perch like I posted the pic up on the rear.



Modified by cappa at 4:10 AM 12/8/2004

[Deemeetree]

Originally Posted by Archidictus

Damn, Dimi; keeping busy, eh? Nice write-up.

Yeah man, I'm hoping that if everyone contributes a decent, detailed Write-up, we'll get all the n00bs to Search first and never have to create a new thread. Then again, that would be in a perfect world. Why I've done a few Write-Ups.

Originally Posted by hawjboi

nice write up...but i dont see the reason for the o-rings..i mean as soon as you slide the sleeve on wouldn't the first 0-ring slide down to the bottom o-ring...even if you use grease??? the rings are supposed to help the sleeve from rocking back and forth but if the top o-ring moves to the bottom with the bottom o-ring what is the point of the o-rings then?

Well the o-rings are there to keep the sleeve from moving side to side. I didn't use a massive amount of grease all over the strut (we're not lubing something else here perv). Just around where the o-ring is. So, if they o-ring were to move, it'll only move about 1" lower than where it sits now, still being close to the top. The bottom o-ring isn't going anywhere, there's a bump/outward groove that stops it from going any lower. You do need the o-rings though, the bottom one is not enough. Main reason I used a little grease is for the temperatures outside.

It's soo damn hot here, all rubber items on the car turn to shit. Search my Write-Up on Installing A Distributor O-Ring. All the miles and miles of 95*+ weather plus the engine temps dried the living shit out of the o-ring. Yet, it's right next to moving engine fluid, go figure.

[Vero]

awesome

[OneFire]

Nice DIY, props for taking the time and effort

What shocks are you running with the coilovers?

[hawjboi]

okay...i understand now...

[SubTitle]

nice

[BauleyCivic]

Very nice work Dimi

Originally Posted by Dimi

Before you start flaming, remember, there's lots of people out there with OEM struts, even some Moderators . So don't flame, please.

Haha...

Snail > Suspension

[SubTitle]

[Deemeetree]

Originally Posted by cappa

Are you using the rings on the bottom of the rears? If I was you I would cut the spring perch like I posted the pic up on the rear.

I haven't done the rears yet. Installing them this weekend. Yes, Ill be using the rings on the bottom, but I can't really see your pic that well. Where did you cut and why?

Originally Posted by BauleyCivic

Very nice work Dimi

Haha...

Snail > Suspension

I would have gone the same way, but I know I'm sure as hell not doing a turbo install for $177. Got to find a better paying job, then I can do some power upgrades.

Originally Posted by Ek_Egg

Nice DIY, props for taking the time and effort

What shocks are you running with the coilovers?

OEM struts.

[cappa]

The pic isnt comming up fullsize or its not there? I see it I can email it to you or Ill try a different host site.


Edit Let me know if you see it now???

[Deemeetree]

Originally Posted by cappa

The pic isnt comming up fullsize or its not there? I see it I can email it to you or Ill try a different host site.


Edit Let me know if you see it now???

No, I do see the picture. It's just a little dark.

What part did you cut and why?

[Soccerking3000]

yuo have to cut it off because the rings that you use to adjust the height will hit the spring perch, and effectively only allow you to lower the car to the perches, if you cut them the rings can go all the way down... did that make any sense?

in the picture he gave you both shocks are from the rear,you notie how the metal on the right one is still there? it gets in the way, the one on the left is cut so the rings can move up and down freely.

andhow do omni-power coilovers compare to ground control?
p.s. i have the same rug as you dimi


Modified by Soccerking3000 at 3:25 PM 12/8/2004

[POE]

Yo Dimi i hope you have two newLCA bushing and bolts to replace those ones that are most likely going to break off. when u go to loosen them

[cappa]

Originally Posted by Soccerking3000

yuo have to cut it off because the rings that you use to adjust the height will hit the spring perch, and effectively only allow you to lower the car to the perches, if you cut them the rings can go all the way down... did that make any sense?

in the picture he gave you both shocks are from the rear,you notie how the metal on the right one is still there? it gets in the way, the one on the left is cut so the rings can move up and down freely.

andhow do omni-power coilovers compare to ground control?
p.s. i have the same rug as you dimi


Modified by Soccerking3000 at 3:25 PM 12/8/2004

Exactly if you dont cut the pearches then you will have the problem of only being able to lower it a little bit. The rear spring cup on the bottom gets in the way of the adjustible part of the coilover. Wheou do your rears and if you dont cut them you will see what I mean.

Does the pic look dark for anyone else??

[Soccerking3000]

Originally Posted by cappa

Does the pic look dark for anyone else??

no