vietxquangstah

You cut new ones open eh? Do you even know what kind? As I stated before, they have 7 different kinds and only 1 out of the 7 is what I would recommend anyone to use.

Prepare to get educated.

Each filtering media was filtration tested using a standard 30µm contaminant.

The contaminant that was used was a standardized spherical aluminum powder of 30µm diameter. This 30µm powder was weighed on a scale accurate to 0.002g.

Oil is Mobil 1 5w30 weight
Test Oil Temp ranges from 195F to 212F

For the filtration testing, after each filter was disassembled and all measurements and construction was examined, the filtering media was cut into 70mm circles. These filtering media circles were saturated with heated oil and placed into a 70mm büchner filter funnel vacuum filtering setup. The filter funnel was placed and sealed on top of a thick walled vacuum filtering flask. The vacuum was provided by a vacuum pump which pulled an almost full vacuum (~14psi) which simulates the oil pressure of the engine, although its lower than what is typical for our setup (which typically runs between 20-50psi), but 14psi is still considered in the 'normal' range from GM, so it does provide an accurate comparison. The test oil was heated to between 90C (195 F) - 99C (212 F) degrees, which is approximately full engine operating temperature, and 100mL amounts were mixed with approx .250g of contaminant and mixed well. This mixture was then filtered through the oil filter media circles, this filtered oil was collected and re-filtered again through a separate 90mm büchner filter funnel using a standardized 90mm fine lab filter paper which filters 98% at 2.5µm. The excess oil was filtered through the testing filter paper and then photographed next to the correlating 70mm filter media circles using a fixed normal lens (35mm f1.8 lens on a 1.5x crop sensor Nikon D90 DSLR).

WIX



Napa Gold



Fram Extra Guard (JUNK)



Fram Xtended Guard (Best Fram Filter)



Mobil 1



K&N



Royal Purple



What do you have to say about Fram Xtended Guard now? It clearly out performed your "Napa Gold" and "WIX" oil filters.

vietxquangstah

Think of it this way. When you lift up the front end of the car whether it be jack stands or rhino ramps your car is going to be angled and want to roll backwards.

Roll backwards like it is in reverse.

With that being said the whole point of wheel chocks is to prevent the vehicle from ROLLING BACKWARDS. So you place the wheels chocks BEHIND the back tires.

To make it simple.

Park the car. Place the wheel chocks BEHIND the rear tires. Now if you start the car and put it into reverse to back up the car should roll AGAINST the wheel chock and the car shouldn't move at all.

That is how you correctly place wheel chocks.

Now if you are using rhino ramps (which I'm still against for a beginner like you) you will want to drive your car up on the rhino ramps FIRST. After the vehicle is parked up there than you engage your parking brake. After you engage your parking brake you put the wheel chocks behind the rear tires so the car doesn't roll backwards incase your parking brake fails.

lostforawhile

you obviously work for them or have some tie to them, I dont know a single person who is serious about engines who would put their crap on an engine. And I'm not going to derail this thread by turning it into another filter debate

vietxquangstah

I obviously work for them? Really?

That's your response after making a blanketed statement that ALL fram oil filters suck and I even went as far as to provide you with evidence and test results of various oil filters to prove you wrong?

You clearly didn't read my post earlier that said I work at a shop.

If I worked for them would I say that 6 out of their 7 oil filters are COMPLETE ****, JUNK, GARBAGE?

If I worked for them would I say that Royal Purple oil filter is superior to the Fram Xtended Guard Filter?

I'll tell you one thing. I "WISH" I worked for Fram. I'd probably make more money working for them than compared to the shop I'm currently working at.

Clearly you're in the wrong and have nothing to back it up. I already told you that I agree that 6 of their oil filters out of the 7 in their lineup is JUNK.

I'm just trying to prove to everyone that the Xtended Guard is the only one worth spending money on.

Even though the test results show that it's better than Mobil 1, for my 2008 Acura TL I only use Mobil 1 oil filter paired with Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil anyways.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

OP...advance auto has valvoline synthetic and a K&N filter package for $33 right now. Why would you buy a $15 K&N filter and then go to another store to buy overpriced oil?

Suddenly this is a $50+ oil change not including tools. You want to buy all this stuff to do an oil change ONCE? Why? Why any of this? Why synthetic oil all of a sudden?

2 pages of debate on oil change methods? Did you guys call NASA to ask what they use on their B18B in the space shuttle yet?

I'll never understand.

tamboo

opinions on the honda filters???:hmmm:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Pieces-Union-Sangyo-OEM-Quality-Oil-Filter-Honda-Acura-/151329850130?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233bf64312&vxp=mtr

da9licious

lol at all the bullshit in this thread

361 accord

tighten plug til it stops, then 1/8 - 1/4 turn more

do not abuse the drain plug

k3ntegra

If I see I'm able to replace the parts on my own, is it okay to go ahead and change the oil filter, and then replace the conventional oil with synthetic oil, 300 miles later?

By the way I saw this off craigslist; $30 floor jack:
http://frederick.craigslist.org/for/4604509070.html

It would cost me $14 in fuel to drive there and back.

lostforawhile

in your first post I saw where you had the curved jaw vise grips, to remove the filter, if you buy any, try to find some originals on ebay or someplace like it, great tool, and will remove almost any filter, but they took a great tool and turned it into garbage by moving production to china, and throwing quality out the window. Used is always better then new in this case. Try to find one that is stamped Peterson manufacturing company on it. Those are the originals and will out last every car you own. Irwin tools bought them and before they moved production to China, it's hard to tell a country of origin on some, if they say Irwin along with vise grips or say "the original vise grip" they are not the quality of the original, a good used pair of the original curved jaw ones will give you a lifetime of oil changes and can still be passed on to future kids, grandkids etc

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

The oil must come out before the oil filter is removed.

You can switch you car over to synthetic oil if you want to, at anytime.

HondaPartsHero

You can get a floor jack combo at Advance Auto for $40 before using the coupon code TRT30 to get 30% off making it around $30. You could have used that for any filters, tools, etc

k3ntegra

Aah thanks for this insight!

I'm sorry if my questions are getting out of hand but please bear with me. Where would be the wisest place to put the spare tire, as a back up incase the jack stands compromise, especially in the event of an earth quake: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2011_Virginia_earthquake
I've been surfing forums, and it seems, the ideal place is the "frame rail", which I don't know where that is located at.

I was planning on placing the spare under the front left, but I'm worried the car won't be high enough, or the spare tire jack won't be able to lift that high. I also intend to use chock/tire hugger as noted earlier.

Jack stands I'm looking to purchase:

You couldn't make this up: oil change with just the spare tire jack! Only at team-integra could they allow such a "tutorial": http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...il-change.html

I've owned this car since 139+ thousand. So to do this oil change myself after 40,000 will be a special moment.

94 accord typeR

avoid the urge to buy expensive oil filter... they get tossed in 3000 miles anyway

educate yourself on the quality oil filters (see above and youtube videos) there is some crap out there

Honda filters are now made by Fram (via youtube video) try to avoid these

it is best to buy the "O" type filter wrench. it is universal to an extent and will not puncture the filter causing hot oil to spill down ur arms
(not sure if this is the right one but u get the picture)

buy a floor jack at harbour freight. last jack u will ever buy. its the type of jack u see at professional garages and tire changing places. even removes the need for ramps or jack stands (as long as u are only changing oil 15 minute process)

at home oil changes can get expensive depending on the type of oil u use but its gonna be better than the bulk oil at jiffy lube (maybe not)

k3ntegra

Went ahead and bought these
I won't go under the car with just the floor jack holding, even if its just for 1 millisecond. Thanks for the heads about suggestions, especially the Honda "oem" filters.

I'd still like to know the wisest place to place the spare tire.

If I felt I installed the oil filter wrong and need to re-install it, can I just drain the "new oil" out and then put it back in the engine; since I can should only remove the oil filter after the oil has been drained out completely from the car.

I've noticed in a couple a tutorials, that the "old oil" drained out is always pitch black. That Harbor freight floor jack seems to be the best deal out there ($93, heard there might also be a $20 off coupon floating out there), but I'd like to strictly use my spare tire jack, especially, because I don't anticipate on bring a floor jack with me when going on road trips.

silvertaxasteg

Seriously, go with the ramps. Much easier, and cheaper, to use than a floor jack and stands. If you line them up right to the tires first, alignment is easy, and it's easy to tell when you're flat. Have a buddy spot for you for a few times, and you'll get the hang of it. If clearance is an issue, use a couple 2x6 boards as a 'pre-ramp'. That's what I do with my Teg, even when it was lowered. Wasn't an issue with the bumper.

Use a band type filter wrench, preferably one that pivots with an extra hinge so the handle doesn't always project tangentially from the band - it will help for getting around the drive shaft. The exact kind 94_accord_typeR linked are great.

If you go to most oil change places, you'll see they just use a combination wrench to tighten the drain plug, no cares given. I use a 3/8" torque wrench from Harbor Freight, been great.

Ah... If only you were in Houston. Your first oil change... you're finally becoming a man.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Things in this thread:
-oil must be drained before removing the filter.
-a harbor freight jack is the last one you'll buy and it is used by professionals.

Who are you people?

No, you don't need to drain the oil before removing a filter. There's no reason you'd have to.

Harbor freight jack.....last jack you'll ever....professional.....I'm not sure where to start with that one. But its false as hell. Even Jesus knows that.

k-seriesdelsol

Very true

94 accord typeR

ive been using my harbor frieght floor jack for over 10 years now . its a lot better than those smaller pump jacks that dont even raise ur car very high and the hydralic fluid must be replaced ugh

and i didnt say professionals use them but its the same type. im sure they have their own suppliers (craftsman etc) but those are more expensive. sure there are racing floor jacks designed for super low race cars and very quick lifting of the car but those are more expensive and not necessary for 95% of motorists

k3ntegra

Thanks for clearing this misinformation. I'll also be sure to warm the car up for 2-4 minutes before attempting to change the oil. I also know, cinder blocks shouldn't be used for redundancy, but I'd still like to know where to place the spare tire or scissor jack, for redundancy incase either or both jack stands become compromised/give way.

361 accord

you could use a hyundai oem filter from the dealer, they are around 5 bucks and of excellent quality

but wix has not done me wrong yet

tamboo

the denso is a rockauto favorite, opinions?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Oil-Filter-DENSO-150-1006-/380612964235?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589e4cef8b&vxp=mtr

ferio-ichi3

Funny how not one person said search.

safedriver

iTrader: (1)

[quote=k3ntegra;49936756]Went ahead and bought these ]

Good luck with those.
I have a pair. When I get the jaws around the filter, the handles are so far apart that I can't squeeze them enough (and turn them), to remove the filter.

Using the vise-grips (in the photo) I can set the size, using the new filter. Then I can crawl under and grip the old filter and turn it.

k3ntegra

So I went ahead, and used the scissor jack to raise the front-left panel of the car.
The maximum height of the scissor jack after fully raising it was between 13-14 inches.
This seems to be enough clearance to at least reach the oil drain bolt (above green box in the image?), and seal it back up. I’d like to confirm whether the following object above the purple rectangle (photo shopped), is the oil filter? https://i.imgur.com/dGsUi8d.jpg .
Thankfully I resisted the urge to go under the vehicle.

Fortunately I made a big revelation today… The mechanic(s) that changed all four tires for me (and the oil), used 21mm nut bolt (?) on the front left tire. Coincidentally, I was curious as to whether or not my spare wrench was still useful. The other three tires’ lug nuts were able to fit with my spare tire wrench easily, without any lubricant. I drove to the mechanics. According to them, the other 3 tires were using 19mm not 21mm as the front-left’s lug nuts. They gave me 1 of their spare old wrench for free to unlock the 21mm bolt.

The main reason it’s vital for me to use the scissor jack, instead of a floor jack, is in case I need to change the oil, or inspect the underbody of the car while I’m on a road trip. I’d rather not bring a 70lbs object on such an embarkment. I recently saw a vehicle, in the Baltimore metro (Maryland) with Alaska license plates, which was pretty cool: https://i.imgur.com/1tLM6OZ.jpg . Baltimore to Juneau Alaska and back to Baltimore Maryland, is 7500 miles. I’m guessing this distance is indeed enough for a synthetic oil on a Gen 3 Integra using synthetic oil, especially if 1 will mainly drive on interstate highways.

Now onto the procedure:
It seems I have to place the scissor jack’s surface between 1/3rd to ½ on the contact surface of the metal rod, or even further back, if I am to have a chance to place the jack stands (which I haven’t received yet), by its side after raising it to its near maximum: https://i.imgur.com/aITgnlc.jpg . The jacks stands I got, seem to have a wide triangular base: .

To make up for this I plan to place the jack stand that is under the front left closer to the front end of the metal rod of the vehicle (blue rectangle in image), and the jack stand under the front right, closer to the back part of the metal rod (orange rectangle): https://i.imgur.com/Yn3HbMp.jpg . Hopefully the wheel chock will come in handy.

For weight support redundancy, I’d like to place the scissor behind the front left jack stand, with its height slightly lowered. The front left tire was only 3 inches off the ground, there I really couldn’t place the spare tire under it.

Coincidentally, I went ahead and jury-rigged an oil drain pan from an empty 1.17gal/4.68 quarts tide detergent bottle: https://i.imgur.com/UIWh9iK.jpg

The 2nd time I do an oil change myself, hopefully I’ll have the floor jack in my possession.

If there are recommendations, to a better procedure, it would be appreciated. Thanks for the many suggestions.

Edit #1: I've been considering using a metallic block, to get more for the car from the jack stand. Not it "Advanced Auto Parts would carry such unit.