Benefitx

hello i have had a ticking sound coming from the engine, and misfire at idle so i started to do a valve adjustment, but all the locknuts were seized and i could not adjust the screw, now the ticking is louder and the sputtering it alot more

how can i unfreeze the locknuts, i was thinking get a box wrench and hold the nut, and use a drill with a drill bit to loosen the screw

Benefitx

im using a feeler gauge .004 for intake and .007 for exhaust side but still ticking

Benefitx

i freed the locknuts by using a ratchet with a drill bit hehe but still ticking

tamboo

get the tool and do it right.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alltrade-10mm-7-1-2-Inch-Jam-Nut-Valve-Adjustment-Tool-648827-New-/281057240626?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4170512632
get some pb blaster on the nuts and use a breaker bar if necessary.

full Circling

yea try getting some pb blaster into the threads. the trick is to try to not get it on any of the easily-strippable old metal that youre gonna be putting torque on: the faces of a nut, or the head of a bolt etc. what tool(s) are you using right now?

vietxquangstah

You have a misfire and you jump to doing valve lash adjustment? Really?

I don't own a Integra, I own a 2008 Acura TL so I don't know the valve lash specs but are you sure its .004 and .007?

I did a valve lash adjustment on a f22b honda accord recently and the specs were not that low..

The specs are labeled under the emissions label located under the hood. You will see it say INTAKE and EXHAUST

Benefitx

yea its .004 and .007 for exhaust, i have 1 valve thats not adjusted right so its still ticking, gunna get a compression tester

and im sure the misfire and sputtering is from valve adjustment

m4xwellmurd3r

I adjust them to .007in .009ex

I had the same issue as you. I was able to bust the 12mm lock nut loose but not the adjuster screw. It took me and my friend 2 hours to break them loose. He basically put all his weight down on a flathead screwdriver while I cranked the nuts back and forth till they were freed up. Almost ruined a couple beforehand cause I couldn't put enough weight on the flathead.

Soaking with pb blaster or seafoam would probably work better. Seafoam eats varnish like its nothin lol

vietxquangstah

Are you guys rotating the crank pulley to make sure each cylinder is TDC?

I.E. Make sure cylinder #1 is TDC than loosen the nuts for the INT and EX and adjust the valve lash and than torque the lock nuts to 14ft/lbs than rotate the crank again so the next cylinder is TDC and than adjust that cylinder?

It helps to know the firing order. I believe it's 1, 4, 3, 2. Or 1, 4, 2, 3. I'm not sure but it's best to know.

Benefitx

this is driving me nuts, i know the valves are adjusted perfectly but i am still hearing a ticking noise, and i think its coming from the back of the engine or something idk

valves are adjusted perfectly but noise wont go away, ive done a valve adjustment like 10 times already

i have bogging at take off and sometimes it sputters

its 1-3-4-2, up arrow for 1 left arrow for 3 down arrow for 4 right for 2

also smoking blue

Benefitx

for b18b1? might have to try that , i have been doing .004in .007ex

.003" - .005"IN AND .006" - .008"EX.
B18B1 engine: Intake—0.003-0.005 in. (0.08-0.12mm), Exhaust—0.006-0.008 in. (0.16-0.20mm)

Benefitx

man all the valves are adjusted perfectly , feeler gauges have little drag on them , yet its still ticking loud wtff

greatnightmare

Still have misfire? How long have you had the car? Reason I ask is the injectors on integras are pretty loud. Best way to tell is an automotive stethoscope....or the way ive been doing it for years.A long flathead screw driver. Put it on an injector to listen if its the same pattern as what you hear without it and if not, place it on the head on each cylinder location, on both intake and exhaust. That will give you a better analysis of what is actually causing it.

Benefitx

no misfire, just bogging and sputtering, i put a screwdriver and my ear to it, sounds like its coming from cylinder 4 all the way to the left but they are adjusted good

greatnightmare

Did it just start? Just wondering if its possible that the owner before had the timing belt break and bent a valve or two. I would check my timing to see if the belt jumped. Is the check enhine light on?

Benefitx

timing is good, no CEL, but it sounds like a typewriter right now..........:sigh:

greatnightmare

If valves are adjusted properly and its definitely coming from the valves I would have to believe its a bent valve. Did you mis shift or maybe a foreign object got into the combustion chamber and when the valve sprung shut it bent one? Just throwing ideas out there. When you adjusted the valves, did you do it bone cold? Its very important that you do or else it will be off. Can you post a video of your engine running so I can hear it?

full Circling

Looks like B18B has a tighter clearance on the intake side than the B18A...

B18A
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

B18B
INTAKE: 0.003" - 0.005" (0.08mm - 0.12mm)
EXHAUST: 0.006" - 0.008" (0.16mm - 0.20mm)

B18C
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

full Circling

Looks like B18B has a tighter clearance on the intake side than the B18A...

B18A
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

B18B
INTAKE: 0.003" - 0.005" (0.08mm - 0.12mm)
EXHAUST: 0.006" - 0.008" (0.16mm - 0.20mm)

B18C
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

I've always heard loose is better than tight for older engines.. only time I've had a problem was when I first was learning how to get the feel for clearances. I think I had a B18A run rough for setting them too tight, prob used the B18B specs on accident or something.

Benefitx

ok so i tightened down all the adjusters screws one by one and loosened them until the feeler gauge fits now it is not ticking that much anymore

greatnightmare

Good tp hear.

Benefitx

just re-did all of the lifters with the same technique (tighten down all the way, then loosen until feeler gauge fits) and no more ticking woooooooooooo smooth as fock!!

m4xwellmurd3r

The way I always do it is loosen them till the gauge goes in, tighten them till the feeler gauge is stuck, then slowly loosen them till I can drag out the gauge and still slide it back in. Always does the trick. Good to hear you had success in cleaning up the noise

full Circling

that's how i do it, too. glad you got it worked out!

blackeg

^^^^^ agreed that about the best way to do it. usually its about 1/8 of a turn that looses it back of from the first point that it bound up the feeler gauge.

18 ftlbs on the nonvtec lock nuts, and double check with the gauge after you torque it.