Pagoda

I've been having this odd problem for the last month or so, but has started to get really bad.

When I turn the ignition over to start the car, I get all the symptoms of a low/almost dead battery....low dash lights and then very dim on turnover, only enough juice to get clicks on the starter, etc.

However, after trying a few times, turning the key all the way back to the beginning and then turning all the way to start the car again, suddenly the dash lights are very bright, and the car starts right up, half the time at least when the dash lights are bright.

Could this be a physical issue with the ignition switch that the contacts could be going bad? Any insight or advice is helpful. (btw my starter, alternator, and battery all tested good, at a recent time when the engine started right away at least.) I'm wondering if it's the ignition switch or a starter solenoid going bad.

Update 9/14/14: Fixed, after discovering a bad battery cable corroded inside a new positive battery clamp.

Lost Again

Never hurts to inspect the batttery cables - both ends of both cables - to be sure they are clean and tight.

Next time this happens, test the voltage on the small wire going to the starter solenoid

tim73

Definitely sounds like a bad connection/dirty connection, probably in your battery cables.

holmesnmanny

The starter wouldnt affect the car while its running. Does sound like the ignition switch.

Pagoda

Thanks guys. I thought I was subscribed but I guess that was 'weekly' only, lol. I replaced the ignition switch this weekend ($30 beck arnley via amazon) and to this point haven't had any more issues with this. However it certainly wouldn't hurt to check the solenoid voltage and clean up the battery cables. I may have a few things going on here which is a bit of a longer story.

Pagoda

Ignition switch didn't do it and the battery cables are excellent. I haven't checked the voltage on the small solenoid wire when this happens, but I had a volt meter in the cigarette lighter and saw it dip below six one time when turning it over, so I'm guessing something is sporadically shorting. Could the solenoid be that flaky? I also tend to have more problems starting the car when it's hot, ie running for a while, parked briefly, then started, as opposed to a cold start, which seems very reliable.

94 accord typeR

main relay for hot start issues. get another $30 beck arnley its just a circuit board with bad solder joints

Pagoda

Thanks very much for the suggestion, 94 accord typeR. I just did some looking into this idea and it certainly sounds like an awesome suggestion. I should have one on Monday or Tuesday, and will update this thread next week.

Lost Again

I don't see where the OP ever stated that the car dies while running?

When or how in the heck does the main relay have anything to do with the starter spinning the engine over?

holmesnmanny

Ya im not sure what i was referring to there.

quique29

Hi guys.

I've been having a similar problem. Almost every time I turn the ignition over to start my car, I just hear a clicking noise, but my car won't start (only the dashboard lights up). I have to turn the key all the way back and then after two or three times I can finally start it.

I already checked the battery and everything's tight and clean. I also had my battery, alternator and starter tested and supposedly they're all in good condition. I don't know what else to do. I'd appreciate your help.

Pagoda

I installed a new today (couldn't find Beck Arnley near $30 range). All is good so far but it will probably take atleast a week of success before having any kind of confidence the issue is resolved.

Pagoda

Very similar indeed.

Pagoda

No luck with putting in a new main relay - same 'low battery' symptom happened today, before turning the key all the way back, and then starting it normally again. Oddly, the last two times I've started the car right after toggling the car door locks. I'm wondering if there is a short of some sort related to the security system - I'll have to keep an eye on this oddity.

Lost Again

I tried to save you the cost of the main relay.

So at "some points" you are only getting 6v to the starter - that is where you need to be spending your time/money/efforts.

Have the battery load tested, many stores will do this for free - please confirm both ends of both cables are clean and tight.

Sorry, this still sounds/reads like a bad ground or bad battery....but what do I know.

Pagoda

I appreciate the feedback. I can easily take the battery to costco for them to test it. If it fails, I'll get the prorated discount on a new one. Previously Autozone used their diagnostic tool to do a full alternator, battery, starter check. I don't know if that included a load test.

I'm under the impression a battery load issue isn't as likely because the dash lights are dim when turning the key to the ON position, even before turning the engine over...this is before the starter gets voltage.

It's erratic tho. In these erratic instances when the lights are dim, then indeed there are not enough volts getting to the starter when I turn it over (perhaps 6v as you suggested. But a few seconds later, turning the ignition all the way off and back on again results in a seemingly 'perfect battery.' And car batteries just aren't erratic like that (that I know of.)

My positive and negative cables are 'beautiful' imho. I did have to change the positive clamp a year ago as it was corroded, but it has been heavily dialectically-greased since and is still shiny as a new copper penny, from when they used to be all copper. (however I'm wondering if whatever caused my positive cable to get so disgustingly corroded fairly quickly could have been an early symptom...)

I've also brushed and greased the lead to the starter and the negative ground end as well as a couple of connection clips on the starter. This also isn't a 'salt state' car and there is very little corrosion in the engine compartment and body, etc.

So my next step, I'll take the battery in to be tested and post the results.

parchment

I recently inherited this Civic from my sister after she upgraded to a 2006 Accord. It was driving just fine when the Speedometer suddenly quit working. Lo and behold, the famous fuse 15 blown problem shows up. I get under the car and separate the wires that are known to commonly short to the intake bracket for this issue. I didn't properly tape them off because I have a crappy jack and I could barely get under the car. But the fuse no longer blows so for the mean time the short should be gone.After I fix that issue, the alternator suddenly stops working. I found this out the hard way when the car suddenly died while driving. (Fortunately I was in a parking lot at the time.) Fuse 15 not blown, speedo working, so the alternator must be bad, right?*I went ahead and replaced both the alternator and battery (battery was really old, so it needed replacing anyway). I replaced the battery first and drove the car home on the dead alternator just fine.After I replaced the alternator, as soon as I started the car, smoke was coming out of the fuse box and off the battery terminals! I immediately turned off the car and disconnected the battery. Now I have a short circuit between the battery terminals and it will smoke if I put the terminals on the battery.My question is where do I go from here? Fuse 15 is not blowing. I have the new alternator completely disconnected (green plug and charging wire disconnected, not accidentally touching a metal grounding surface) and the short circuit is still there. If I remove the main 80A fuse the short goes away but shouldn't the 80A fuse blow if there's a short on the battery terminals? Why didn't it blow? Perhaps my ELD is bad and I should replace the whole fuse box?*Any help would be appreciated!!

Pagoda

My first thought is, damn I'm fortunate. My second thought is, why the hail are you posting this here? Start your own thread, which will not only help you solicite respective feedback specific to just your issue, and help those assisting to follow your issue, but also help the same for this thread without making it a clusterfvck of different discussions. And need I even mention it will help future troubled visitors and members find help on similar issues. Good luck.

Pagoda

An anti-climactic resolution...you were right!

My 'beautiful' positive cables weren't so beautiful when I took the new clamp apart. The wires practically fell out, loaded with corrosion and an obvious issue. Clean copper sticking out, but that was deceptive and I overlooked them. Another lesson about starting with the basic 'too easy' things first.

Lost Again

To me it doesn't matter who was correct......the thing that matters is the car is working again....and thank you for updating with the "answer", many times we never know what actually worked and those that search end up with a dead end to their issue.

parchment

Well I have a 5 speed 97 EX Civic that is doing something similar. I drove to work just fine but came time to go home and there was no power to the dash lights or anything else. Thinking it was a dead battery I push started it and drove hme perfectly fine. I tested my battery and it checked out fine. I checked all the fuses and they checked out fine as well. Suspecting either the main fuse box under the dash or an ignition relay somewhere. I also checked the ignition swjtch and it checked out fine as well.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.